Friday, 30 May 2008
We started off with our usual warm up on the very easy F3+ Kirrie On Regardless, which I swear gets dirtier each time rather than cleaner! RB decided that she wanted to lead too today and got up no problems whatsoever.
Jonathon couldn't decide whether to jump straight on his 1st 6a+ or to warm up on something else first and decided on the latter option, cruising up the F5, The Hill Has Eyes. RB wanted a bash at leading this too but I seemed to recall a pretty tough and reachy crux on this route from when I tried it on a toprope last year. Couldn't remember whether I found it tough because of my injured spine at the time though, or because it was hard. I managed to dissuade her anyway which is just as well because it was really reachy for her and she ended up sitting on the rope and taking a good few attempts to crack it. I can't seem to reconcile myself to the fact that as she wants to climb harder stuff on lead she will take a fall one day, but the easy routes at Kirrie are too ledgy etc to want to be falling on easy stuff and being a mother I hate the thought of her falling!
Anyway, I tried it on lead and ended up frigging my way up the damn thing at the crux, it's bloody good value for an F5!! I have to stretch right up to reach a good handhold and get my foot up for a highstep and then it's straight onto a 2finger pocket, then 2x 3 finger pockets before I can reach the jug and clip. Finger pockets on a 5 just aint right!
Next we jumped on Spent, F6a, this is the one I wanted to lead cleanly having toproped it a few weeks back and having sussed how to get over the wee bulge. Jonathon cruised it as per usual and RB needed to sit on the rope just the once. She asked if she could try and lead this one next time and I told her if she managed a couple of the 5's over on the left wall cleanly then she could give it a go. It's not too bad for a fall that one, as there's nothing to hit on the way down. Anyway, I didn't get it clean, gggrrrrrrr! I was up and down like a yoyo at the crux and couldn't remember how I managed the bloomin' high step and rockover! Julie was there climbing on the 6a+ next to me and she was trying to get me to get my right foot into a wee pocket as that was the way she does it, but that just didn't feel right to me and had me too bunched up for the rock over. But if I had my foot where I was placing it then I just couldn't get my body weight over my right foot. Took me a few attempts but I finally found a wee groove for my right foot just under and to the left of the wee pocket. I will get this route clean next time, oh yes!
Jonathon went for his 6a+ next and managed it no problems whatsover, 6b for him next me thinks which will be great cos then I'll get the chance to try some harder stuff too and maybe improve my climbing! RB managed the crux roof after a rest and some impressive heel hooking and I had to rest too and thug myself over the roof with little finesse or technique!
Forgot my camera so no photos today.
Tuesday, 27 May 2008
I then led Windy Ledge, a nice V.Diff chimney with more gear than you can shake a stick at, just the way I like it! I was happy to find that my gear placements were good (and not too slow) after barely climbing in the past 2 summers due to a spinal injury followed by spinal surgery.
Adam then led Mellow Yellow, a nice wee Severe route. I had been kinda wanting to lead that one, but Phil was leading the severe called Yellow Edge that Adam had wanted to do. I'll get it next time though.
By that point it was time to pack and go. Forgotten how slow trad is compared to bolt clipping!
Lovely evening though with good fun company.