tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24523988337141476282024-03-12T16:13:16.333-07:00Climbing TripsSonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.comBlogger124125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-43002053572748256132011-11-13T07:50:00.000-08:002011-11-13T07:50:31.635-08:00Padaidh the Deerhound - 13th November<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8gQS-LWm0xiIQi1zLFQzG17g8ugTZCirElmS0R8GeOqdjq7_Ee34j_IxIDswyd1HhkydsMt31zlEmqgrKqkHtgcfz1IIE4q6DO8eGuCRzZgJzNzn6lsTsPVmaZWW_CbKp1cimiRo9hI/s1600/B.Chabhair-08_edited-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8gQS-LWm0xiIQi1zLFQzG17g8ugTZCirElmS0R8GeOqdjq7_Ee34j_IxIDswyd1HhkydsMt31zlEmqgrKqkHtgcfz1IIE4q6DO8eGuCRzZgJzNzn6lsTsPVmaZWW_CbKp1cimiRo9hI/s320/B.Chabhair-08_edited-1.jpg" width="320" /></a>Nothing much to report on the blog front. D and I did go and bag my last Crianlarich hill which was nice. I've lost about 10Ib in weight and boy it makes a difference in dragging myself up a hill! Not been out hillwalking for a good couple of months now and it showed in my stamina levels as I felt quite tired after just 6hrs! That's half of what would normally tire me! I'm eager for winter but half dreading it as I'm so unfit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOGNdqr9BwB9M6uQEB40-mutMg4rfbB15lDfpQJ6K60Fsl4Ycb_FDDyEfldPucfHfAQuMwrDDDMeYIsSpDZCoH7lXtVzy_FpHep_xWvdhMUgNQPylxHQDd9neKz1zw3zOjf2s5s1eY44/s1600/Padaidh+and+I.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOGNdqr9BwB9M6uQEB40-mutMg4rfbB15lDfpQJ6K60Fsl4Ycb_FDDyEfldPucfHfAQuMwrDDDMeYIsSpDZCoH7lXtVzy_FpHep_xWvdhMUgNQPylxHQDd9neKz1zw3zOjf2s5s1eY44/s320/Padaidh+and+I.jpg" width="320" /></a>Not been doing any hill running whatsoever, in fact, I've not been doing much of any running at the moment. I'm up at 6am every morning for the drive up to Aberdeen for 9am starts at Uni and I've so much coursework work at the moment that I'm knackered by the time I get home and just don't feel motivated to run. However, D and I are now the proud owners of a Deerhound pup called Padaidh.<br />
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D was very reluctant to get a dog, but I feel that it would be good company for him during the day and although he always said he couldn't be bothered with the responsibility, I think it does him good. And Padaidh is the most adorable pup in the world and is going to grow up into a big, gentle giant. We had some initial hesitations about getting a Deerhound as a hill dog but I've been told by actual Deerhound breeders that people saying they can't get over fences is bollox and they'll easily clear 5 foot from a standstill. These are Scottish dogs, bred for chasing deer!<br />
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Still, hillwalks are a long way off. Pads is only 9 weeks old today and it will be some time before he can manage a full day on the hill. However, I can't wait till he's had his second jabs and I can take him out for longer and longer walks and have him out for a run with me.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-23404107476580078842011-09-25T09:24:00.000-07:002011-09-25T09:30:53.575-07:00Ben Challum and Scottish Bouldering Championships - 19th Sept &24 th SeptWent up to visit Mel and Ed in their new hoose in Kinlochleven, was good to be back up there, even if just for a night, forgotten how ace it is to have mountains on your doorstep! Mel and I were supposed to go for a hillwalk on the Saturday, but I brought up 2 bottles of Sauvignon and seen as I've not drank so much in around 5 years, I had a horrible hangover, bleurg! Still, we had a stroll up to Blackwater dam and that sweated it out.<br />
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Drove down to Dalrigh on Sat eve to meet D, with the intention of heading up my final Mamlorn hill, Ben Challum, plus a couple of the Corbetts the next day. Well, decided that a late start was needed as I needed to catch up on my sleep (just can't handle booze like I used to!) and then decided that I really couldn't be arsed going up the Corbetts as well as Challum, so went for the lazy option of Challum only (although once on the hill it was tempting to go round them all in a circuit.)<br />
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Think we started around 10ish, by driving down to the old St Fillans ruin and then started the hill from there. There wasn't a path so we just ploughed our way up the hill, meeting up with a path eventually after a bit of bog trotting and bracken wading! Going up this way is quite grassy/knobbly but the ground soon evens out and then it's just up over a few false summits and finally up onto the top. The way up was pretty unmemorable but we decided to take a short cut down which ended up on steep ground, wading across a river and me getting shocked on an electric fence!<br />
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We went down into the Coire nan Each which although wasn't massively steep, it was steep with that sort of grassy ground that your foot sinks into one minute and then doesn't sink into the next, with the grass long enough that you can't really see where you're putting your foot. Exactly the sort of ground I hate, where I'm sure I'm going to go over my ankle at some point. Finally it was less steep but I was beginning to think coming this way was daft as we had the river to cross and then had to go back up hill to meet up with path going down the Gleann a Chlachain. D had veered off to the right, angling his way downwards but I decided to plough straight onwards as the section of uphill to meet the path was at it smallest here.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1TarXBY90adnJs21rrGk7Zzc6DmwlXyizcRDXthfXSeMfCYALrG7K0MIH2Mwj18i2vafhqly6vwBCT3GljyvC7tqfst7D2z6JuGkl6YpbTvpMge-jhRnkReuVG3btDtRwb7G9JjON26k/s1600/P9182770+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1TarXBY90adnJs21rrGk7Zzc6DmwlXyizcRDXthfXSeMfCYALrG7K0MIH2Mwj18i2vafhqly6vwBCT3GljyvC7tqfst7D2z6JuGkl6YpbTvpMge-jhRnkReuVG3btDtRwb7G9JjON26k/s320/P9182770+copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Unfortunately, I came to a section that was all fenced off due to some birch saplings. There was a double fence, the first fence being about the height of my waist. Hmmmm, that looks like an electric fence to me...........So, rather than just crawl under the first fence, and being a bit dim, I decided to test it to see if it was electric. Gave it a quick tap with my hand, no shock, gave it another quick tap with my hand, no shock. Okay, maybe it's not electric then. Grabbed the wire with my hold hand and ZAP! Oochy! It's not sore at all, just a shock that goes right up your arm to your shoulder, gives you a bit of a fright and a jolt more than anything. Okay, so it *is* electric! I crawl underneath and then clamber over the second fence, mindful not to fall back onto the first fence!<br />
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The ground through the saplings becoming increasingly long grassed and boggy and is slow going, no sight of D anywhere now and as I approach the river I can see there is no way of crossing. Bloody knew it! Oh yeah, 'it'll be fine to cross as it's so high up.' Well, D found a crossing lower down where he was, but getting down to him would have meant traversing a steep section about the river or going back uphill towards the fence. Screw that! The river wasn't massively fast nor massively deep and my feet were wet in my holey trainers anyway from all the boggy ground. So I just waded across, cursing as I went at agreeing to take this stupid short cut! Then of course, because I'd had to head downstream to try and find a place to cross, I was away from the shortest uphill section to the path and then had to plough up hill through the deep grass, saplings and bog and back up to the path.<br />
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Finally! I did think about stopping for something to eat and D could just bloomin well wait, wondering where I was, but decided I better go catch up with him. Found out, he'd just traversed around the fence, not needing to cross and had found an area to cross the river also. And he said he'd heard me cursing on a couple of occasions. Probably the time I got a shock off the fence and probably when I stepped into a boggy section that went above my trainer. We were on the path though and it wasn't long to get back to the car, stopping at the graveyard by the Priory for a nosey.<br />
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SCOTTISH BOULDERING CHAMPIONSHIPS<br />
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Saturday the 24th saw Beks and I drive up to Transition Extreme, the wall in Aberdeen, for the Scottish Bouldering Championships. Normally it's open to those who have come 1st-5th in the Scottish Youth Climbing Series, but I think it's an open competition to all now, atleast I think it is.<br />
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It was a great comp, and all the boulder problems were well thought out, although I think it was only really the last few problems which were really hard. Beks and her friend Kristy went round all the problems together, with Kristy beating RB by 2 points and Rachel coming in 1st place by 10 points. Beks fell off on her 1st go on one problem where you had to use just one foot hold to get onto the wall, grab a ball shaped volume and then smear up the wall, mantling onto the ball then getting both feet on and standing on it, with no hand holds above. Just don't think she smeared up enough the first time so was trying to mantle from too low down and not enough power, but she got it on the 2nd go, putting her 3 points behind. She then managed to scrape back a few points by holding some bonus holds in control on the harder problems.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1THyDEiMMYNYrE6nO831Pn6BA4Dwj70eruHIp9UnvE9R2OJ8qD1BnKwcu6-UVJnWa4PDdQFO2ZCrChyphenhyphenTCL4gdAfyq2-2H8jJA0-tgICrFDOLY3RngxA-fMQQaUOCTv1VD7mIfH7AEx0/s1600/Final+problem+no+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1THyDEiMMYNYrE6nO831Pn6BA4Dwj70eruHIp9UnvE9R2OJ8qD1BnKwcu6-UVJnWa4PDdQFO2ZCrChyphenhyphenTCL4gdAfyq2-2H8jJA0-tgICrFDOLY3RngxA-fMQQaUOCTv1VD7mIfH7AEx0/s320/Final+problem+no+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Problems 22-25 were much more challenging for the girls. Both Beks and her friend got no 22 on the second go which involved some steep and balancy crimping and heel hooking. Problem 23 involved a steep and long stretch out to a massive sloper. The hold above the sloper was the bonus hold but the problem was that they kept latching the sloper and cutting loose with their feet and then swinging off. Beks finally got her feet really high so she wasn't as stretched out as much and this meant that she didn't ping off completely once latching the sloper. She then managed to top out on her 4th go but this still only gave her 1 point, just the same as if she had only got the bonus hold and not topped out, which seemed a pretty daft way to work things.<br />
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Problem 24 involved lots of heel hooking on an arete, and using horrible steep, blocky holds and RB didn't manage to top this one, but she did get the point for the bonus hold. Then the final problem was hideous and even the boys were having trouble topping out on this one. There was a pocket to start, then up to an long overhanging pinch. You then had to heel hook the pocket and make a huge reach over a roof to an edge on top of a big hold. It was a huge reach though and Beks finally sussed that she could use the edge around the side of the roof to slap against with her palm and thus enable her to work her feet a little higher and grab the sloping bottom edge of the big hold over the roof. She then managed to hold this for long enough to get her other hand up and over onto the better top edge of the hold. It was then a case of cutting loose and swinging a foot out to the left and then locking off and stretching up and slapping for a huge, horrendous sloper. The sweet point was over the top of the big sloper and there was no way RB was getting up that high, she just didn't have the power for it. But she did really well to get the bonus hold on her 5th go.<br />
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The top 4 went into isolation and were then given 4 minutes per route to onsight 2 boulder problems which were nails! The first one started under a roof and crimped it's way under and over, then from the lip of the roof, you had to get a really high foot up onto the wall to propel you up to the next hold which was miles away and only one boy managed to top that route it was so hard! You were allowed as many goes on the problem as you liked within the 4minutes and once they called 'time' you were allowed to complete your go if you had already started. So timing was of the essence, imperative to give yourself a wee rest in between goes so as not to get too pumped. Beks managed to get over the lip of the roof, held the holds in control but then fell off.<br />
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The second problem involved horrible slopers, including the previous one from problem 23. You started on the side wall, moving diagonally across an overhang on slopers, making a huge move to a slug round a corner, then from the slug you were to go diagonally up on big, flat edges and up into another corner. All the girls bar one and most of the boys only made it as far as touching the slug. Beks was trying all sorts to get to it, involving some crafty heel hooks above her head! Rachel managed to hold the slug briefly before falling off each time and only 2 boys got past the slug, with one nearly managing to top out.<br />
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So that was RB in 2nd place by just one point which was pretty impressive. All the hard work she's put into bouldering recently has paid off. Time to start getting more routes in for the BLCC's now!Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-18659609030109776072011-09-08T13:41:00.000-07:002011-09-09T08:47:08.313-07:00LAST OF THE ANGUS GRAHAMS - Thurs 8th Sept<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhl3M8IMRheBlFHPyEaLLSsRwTEIxEluZ-cSJ7rwffAijTI_872drvgq6PkEKKv1uAt-r9KNT9hsG-r7GrwyYP2KMUZ5bOJClzSctQDq0gwAujhUjxtDiLdE5vD7hnAARCwdd6AR8QuRk/s1600/I+want+a+caterpillar+coloured+jumper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhl3M8IMRheBlFHPyEaLLSsRwTEIxEluZ-cSJ7rwffAijTI_872drvgq6PkEKKv1uAt-r9KNT9hsG-r7GrwyYP2KMUZ5bOJClzSctQDq0gwAujhUjxtDiLdE5vD7hnAARCwdd6AR8QuRk/s320/I+want+a+caterpillar+coloured+jumper.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Duncs and I used the oppurtunity of RB being away at a school residentual trip, and the fine weather, to go out for a days hillwalking. The plan had been for me to 'bag' my final Mamlorn hill, Ben Challum and do a wee horseshoe by going round the 2 nearest Corbetts also. The alarm was set for 6am for a nice, early start but the whole plan went kinda pearshaped when I switched the alarm off through the night and decided that a nice lie in was a better plan. D had been up through the night coughing and rather than wake me (he already had) he tried, quietly (and unsuccessfully) to head down to the spare room. That was me awake and just sleeping in fits and starts through the night. The bed became cold with just me, the room was too dark with just me (yes, I'm sure I've admitted to it before, but I'm scared of the dark!) and I was thinking that because D had not come back upstairs, then he must be feeling poorly and would appreciate a lie in. So the alarm was switched off and although I had hoped to enjoy a leasurly lie in bed, D came up at 7.30am proclaiming that we'd missed our 6am start. Oh well!<br />
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I snuggled under the covers again and promptly fell back asleep, determined for my glorious long lie! I got it in the end, rising at the slovenly hour of 9.30am to be greeted by a faintly autumnal, glorious sunshine. Not wanting to waste a day of sun, I suggested that we head out after lunch and go up the 2 Grahams I had left to do in Angus, Corwharn and Cat Law. It had been my intention to do both of these Grahams seperately and keep up my tradition of running up the Grahams. But I've having a lot of problems with my neck at the moment, that running is on the hold for just now. My neck and subsequent nerve pain in my arms has been really behaving itself all summer but an awkward fall on the bouldering wall last week, followed by lugging a heavy sack up Eagle Ridge (and climbing for the first time in ages!), then a day at the gym doing weights, followed by some training on my 45 degree wall in the garage *and* 50 ice axe pull ups, has somewhat irritated my cervical spine again, so I'm suffering from muscle spasm, horrible shooting pains in my arm, burning shoulder pain and numbness. Boy it's all so familiar, here we go again! And I've tried to get out running but all the pounding is just not agreeable. However, I did have a wee sneaky run on the hill today until my neck gave an almight spasm and said STOP!<br />
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So we started off at Balintore and walked up Corwharn first. This starts along the really pretty Glen Quharity and then cuts off up Milldewan Hill and Cairn Corse before reaching the summit. The sun was beaming and it was a vest top kind of day and I felt light and unburdened without a rucksack and just my running bumbag on with a jacket tied round my waist also. Maybe secretly, I really wanted to run. Even without the sack though, my neck and arm protested, I think my back just doesn't like going uphill when it's at it's sorest.<br />
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We went off path after this, down to the path to Glen Uig and I certaintly didn't feel like running here as it was just too heathery, interspersed with long grass, total ankle killing terrain! It was the next section where the running started. There's a really, really steep pull up to Tarapetmile with 200m gain in height, short and sharp! Though it didn't feel short on my wee leggies that's for sure! D commented that this would be a nice, wee section of hill to do hill reps on and I commented that it was probably far too steep for me, but then of course had to try it! I think I managed just over 30 secs for my first stint, stopped for breather, with D still behind, then managed another couple of 20 second stints with longer breathers inbetween and D catching up. One more 20 second stint and I had to stop and wait for D as I was slowly dying! I managed to persuade D to have a go and I think he managed about 10 seconds before giving up. I had another couple of 20 second stints but then had to go down to 10 seconds and by this point, my recovery intervals were so great that D was overtaking me. Time to walk! D wandered off in the wrong direction and this gave me the oppurtunity to give one final push at a run and beat him to the top. That's when the mighty neck spasm from hell put pay to that!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEcUEquqazok_B2eCXQbD63q7QrpVljwVBECeW_n3b_oKLuJnFobGhMQNZyB_41aHJsSk91eB68zLqK9O04lD3A_zlr9Wvp0yfv_NZzMWV4Z2axoM9wAACtUb37Y-_rnUztjZEEnMyYM/s1600/Strathmore+Valley+from+Cat+Law.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVEcUEquqazok_B2eCXQbD63q7QrpVljwVBECeW_n3b_oKLuJnFobGhMQNZyB_41aHJsSk91eB68zLqK9O04lD3A_zlr9Wvp0yfv_NZzMWV4Z2axoM9wAACtUb37Y-_rnUztjZEEnMyYM/s320/Strathmore+Valley+from+Cat+Law.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpE9nycpsH1gycX6kc5_2hhrRRG-Lzm8prjNHxosP5jDhEAePD_dPtjGk3SYkqSN-fapSKERm8KffxD78v1Z4o3kVbYdyJcelgSl9liWwbKM55QaE41F3T11EKfS3vNvCWqssH2b8AIw/s1600/Towards+Schiehallion+and+Ben+Lawers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpE9nycpsH1gycX6kc5_2hhrRRG-Lzm8prjNHxosP5jDhEAePD_dPtjGk3SYkqSN-fapSKERm8KffxD78v1Z4o3kVbYdyJcelgSl9liWwbKM55QaE41F3T11EKfS3vNvCWqssH2b8AIw/s320/Towards+Schiehallion+and+Ben+Lawers.jpg" width="320" /></a>It was all horrible and heathery again but a good path soon followed and I was sorely tempted to start running again, but I'd told D that I was just out to walk and besides, I wanted the company. I did have a point when I was walking pretty fast, like a train D said, between Cormaud and Monthrey, but this section is only slightly uphill. The pull up to Cat Law was crucifying though! I'd decided not to take my poles with me, going for the light option and wanting to toughen my legs up a bit for winter! But before long we were up and having a quick bite to eat. A very quick bite to eat! Rather than have my salad for lunch, I'd splurged out on having a sandwich, so I presumed that I'd not need to eat anything on the hill and thus hadn't taken any food. Well, I was having sugar lows on and off all day and was having moments of horrible shakes, so thankfully D had brought some cereal bars which I munched on happily. Fish finger sandwiches are not good hill food!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCa3zK57YEsa-Z889felKSTU8fliRSdPgx-JQL8p6-ugJV6onnJJvnvD9JxvxgFuiL7gG92dJdpw3UjFBVUmRlKr6-IOQm1CM0pmOJc3roUv46eNQoZjIT3WVCQFjVRN-ZJ5QM3RIMBQ/s1600/Balintore+Castle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCa3zK57YEsa-Z889felKSTU8fliRSdPgx-JQL8p6-ugJV6onnJJvnvD9JxvxgFuiL7gG92dJdpw3UjFBVUmRlKr6-IOQm1CM0pmOJc3roUv46eNQoZjIT3WVCQFjVRN-ZJ5QM3RIMBQ/s320/Balintore+Castle.jpg" width="320" /></a>We took the South West spur off the hill, using the sun for navigation and picked up the path down to Balintore. D had been up these hills before and had mentioned that when he was here last time, he had seen people working on Balintore Castle, to renovate it. It's an old Victorian Castle that has lain in ruin until someone bought it, but we didn't know who. I mentioned that I'd like to see it so we went for a nosey before heading back to the car. Now, I'm not normally a fan of castles or stately homes but there is something moving about this castle, though what that is I'm just not sure. But I felt pulled to see it and to wander around. There were 'Danger' signs and I wasn't sure that I should be wandering around but we weren't actually going into the building just peering round the outside. Though I did have a wee peak at the Northern side which looked like it had been worked on more, having glass windows.<br />
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So, I'm sat back at home now and one of the first things I did once on my pc was to google Balintore Castle to see what I could find out. A guy called David Jones now owns the castle and is in the process of renovating it. It's so nice that someone has done this as it seemed so sad to have that castle sitting there becoming more and more ruined. The dude, David, has a blog about his ongoing story of the renovation and it's very interesting to follow.<br />
<a href="http://balintorecastle.blogspot.com/">http://balintorecastle.blogspot.com/</a>Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-66713223248471635642011-09-06T01:54:00.000-07:002011-09-06T02:09:47.851-07:00Eagle Ridge - 4th Sept '11Since coming back from our rather disastrous trip to the Alps, I've been absolutely gagging to get out rock climbing and becoming really grumpy after being let down by partners either not wanting to get out as it's too cold or becoming ill. Not grumpy at my partners, just grumpy with the lack of climbing! So after another bail at short notice, I put a post up on the Dundee climbing facebook page and managed to find a partner for the Sunday.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXXZLYBamKiUvEMWDA_QZL8pRmrJi7yOLCD6w68sItoxdaY4o4sqO4yP5OYcrG-pBR4UYOUAq3ujggabhi-P9vt0SX6oWmN9hyphenhyphenKGrG8_2lQ0C9k-nfPKdNX1oFKfRLGC6DITYBC7BtZzs/s1600/Lochnagar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXXZLYBamKiUvEMWDA_QZL8pRmrJi7yOLCD6w68sItoxdaY4o4sqO4yP5OYcrG-pBR4UYOUAq3ujggabhi-P9vt0SX6oWmN9hyphenhyphenKGrG8_2lQ0C9k-nfPKdNX1oFKfRLGC6DITYBC7BtZzs/s320/Lochnagar.jpg" width="320" /></a>Where to go? I was thinking that I'd be absolutely crapping myself having only gotten out trad climbing once this summer and only a couple of times the summer before. I thought perhaps Ballater and I could lead the V.Diff and the Severe before jumping on Giant Flake Route to see if I could still lead a mild VS/HS. Or perhaps Hawkcraig followed by Limekilns (the tide looked good for the former.) However, my partner had bigger ambitions and suggested Eagle Ridge at Lochnagar. Ooooooooh! It hadn't even dawned on me to go and do a mountain route, so eager was I to get out simply cragging and to see if I still could lead anything without turning into a gibbering wreck!<br />
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We eagerly checked the forecast on Saturday and both agreed that it looked do-able, maybe a shower or two due in later in the day and the route might be a bit damp in places from the rain on Saturday. But it was decided. I threw my stuff into the van and drove down to Dundee to pick up Nikolay, the crazy Russian from Moscow. I then drove us up to the Spittal carpark, I dossed in the van and Nik dossed in the visitor centre, which he said was warm and comfy enough. The carpark was mobbed with cars which I found quite odd at after 11pm in the evening and I was hoping that there wasn't some sort of club meet on with loads of folk wanting to climb Eagle Ridge the next day.<br />
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We were up at 6am and off by 7am, with only one team ahead of us as they had cycled in on bikes. Can't say I fancy cycling up that path as it's far too steep and rough for me! And the 2 guys weren't too far ahead of us, just approaching the bottom of Douglas Gibson Gully as we were at the first aid box in the Coire. It took 1.5hrs to walk up to the col, but a little slower up to the route, due to the boulders coming down into the coire, although the walk down is loads easier in summer than it is in winter! We thought the 2 guys ahead of us were climbing something different to Eagle Ridge as they had started up a slab and corner further up the gully, a different start to Eagle Ridge I wondered and I was curious to consult the guide once I got home to see. But they ended up bailing after a short while, as it was hard and they had actually thought they were on Eagle Ridge. So that put us first on the route.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_g_1IZY-mj5MctsLjoZsNp8rW-gdsVt2W-2OsKgFQaVPcEshMjop9H1DSEJBnMYzYwOG7wPTkdUKp1LrHoaMrUKed48p2ulHSPpY4VbJcCRdB6nRbT1DG4LHWLolBFg8UdQ5hRN4P6E/s1600/Nik+starting+off+on+pitch+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr_g_1IZY-mj5MctsLjoZsNp8rW-gdsVt2W-2OsKgFQaVPcEshMjop9H1DSEJBnMYzYwOG7wPTkdUKp1LrHoaMrUKed48p2ulHSPpY4VbJcCRdB6nRbT1DG4LHWLolBFg8UdQ5hRN4P6E/s320/Nik+starting+off+on+pitch+1.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>Nik led the first pitch and the climbing gets you right into the swing of things! The initial groove is okay just a little rounded in places and with just a thoughtfull move or two and it wasn't too long before I was up and we were swapping the gear over so I could lead the 2nd pitch. This started off really easily and then came to a steep groove, where the guide said to take the right rib. The rib started off okay but culminated in a corner with a crack up the middle and a blank wall either side. Hmmmm. 2 cams in should see me okay and now I have to figure it out. I peer over to the right, but it's all minging and grassy that way, not right! The only way is up the crack and the only way I can figure to do it is to layback. There is an okay, rounded flake on the left for one hand and the crack for the other hand. I try the move and walk my feet up but the crack needs a good jam and then thins right out at the top. I can see a good edge higher on the right for a handhold, but I'm scared to work my feet up higher incase they slip. I reverse the move and come down. And breathe. And try again, and come back down, and breath and try again and come back down. The guys behind us have caught up and are trying a different way, going directly up the groove itself. Okay Sonya, get on with it and commit to the moves! Grab the flake, grab the crack, work my feet up, hand jammed in crack, feet up higher onto the slightest of edges on the slab, other hand higher onto the rounded flake which feels horrible now, work feet up higher yet. Stretch up, stretch up a little more, don't stretch too much or your feet will slip! Got that edge, woop woop! And I'm off again, following the rib which is again much easier. The rope drag is getting pretty bad now though and I decide to stop at the bottom of the corner at the top of pitch two and belay from there.<br />
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I can hear that another team have started on the route and just as Nik appears, the leader of the second team is arriving. We decide to let them past as they seem to be moving quicker than us and the leader carries on up the corner, stopping for a while at the top as he is climbing with big boots on and perhaps the top of the corner is a bit tricky. We wait for quite a while for the leader to set up a belay higher up and bring up his second and then Nik sets off up the corner and then has to stop at the top and wait for the first lots leader to head off. He manages to set up a belay and then I can climb the corner, which is very nice climbing and poses no problems at all. But there's no room for me at the belay and I wait on a ledge below, tied off as we wait for the team above to move on, starting to regret letting them go on ahead of us.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhszkrYdS9EJOSniD0U3kF8k6p-TMqB4rvoPHYbxqX0BqH3z0B9gZnRXAH3vp8WV_Ojk__JRKvlMBUJboI1h7vWO19I0tw8PcoycnqivNHIGi1N2cdCwx-uLrX5X1X5WrSXls4lBV7N-u8/s1600/team+1+on+2nd+pitch+corner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhszkrYdS9EJOSniD0U3kF8k6p-TMqB4rvoPHYbxqX0BqH3z0B9gZnRXAH3vp8WV_Ojk__JRKvlMBUJboI1h7vWO19I0tw8PcoycnqivNHIGi1N2cdCwx-uLrX5X1X5WrSXls4lBV7N-u8/s320/team+1+on+2nd+pitch+corner.jpg" width="245" /></a></div>The next pitch looks hard! And I'm watching the leader above climb the first tower of the crest of the ridge, and then Nik later and nobody does it with any grace! Some more steep moves above and everyone seems to be getting a high foot and belly flop over a big block higher up. The team below us have now caught up and the first team are taking ages on wherever they are, so again Nik is having to wait to set up a belay. Myself and the leader below were sat waiting for an hour, getting colder and colder and colder. By the time I was able to set off I was seizing up a bit from the cold. But it didn't take long to warm up as the next pitch was desperate! This was where the fun began!<br />
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It started off up a short, dirty groove and up to the crest of the ridge, where you peer steeply down the other side. The crest takes you to a steep tower where the first leader was finding it tough going. I didn't find this bit too bad, very steep and committing and you had to trust your feet to a high step onto a sloping ledge but the hand holds were good once you found them. The next bit was brilliant, a very steep wall with massive jugs and not reachy at all. But the next section was horrendous! Looking at pics, I think this was the section that was to lead into the sentry box. Well, I just couldn't do this bit at all! There was a big massive block barring the way and I tried tackling it from all sides and from all angles but I just couldn't get my hand over the top of it at all! And there was nothing whatsoever below to use and nothing to use as a foot hold to reach higher either! Stumped! And the worst of it was, was that there was no gear placed up there and if I fell trying to jump for something over the block, then I'd take a nasty swing rightwards and crash into a wall on the right. I was there for ages trying to figure it out, but in the end I decided to move down and to the right, following the rope which took me to an overhanging crack where I decided that I would either have to shunt the rope or be hauled up. I detest being hauled with a passion so I went for the shunt option. Wrapping my prussic round the rope, I realised that I could use the krab clipped into it as a handle and thus as a handhold so i wouldn't have to shunt or be hauled. I explained what I was going to do and with a very tight rope indeed, I bridged out across the corner, jammed one hand into the crack and hauled with all my might onto my handle, shouting at Nik to pull and take in at the same time. I then had to sit on the rope and repeat the process 2 or 3 times to surmount that overhang and by that point I was knackered and my heart was pumping with adrenaline! Nik was laughing his head off at my panting sound effects!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_2Z-_Xc76g94xHEB2bx-WivuASNWQ3RFjo_G7Qp7P_3bZwN_jEPVg_Ha20aFGZCJYdsxzGkp8vROZ5Ze29c3Pj9NUOEqCvUaPwzQcGjWZ9gs_3K0bRYhY5VoPjQXK_eB7oZ1FNLMEn8/s1600/Nik+high+up+on+pitch+3+or+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_2Z-_Xc76g94xHEB2bx-WivuASNWQ3RFjo_G7Qp7P_3bZwN_jEPVg_Ha20aFGZCJYdsxzGkp8vROZ5Ze29c3Pj9NUOEqCvUaPwzQcGjWZ9gs_3K0bRYhY5VoPjQXK_eB7oZ1FNLMEn8/s320/Nik+high+up+on+pitch+3+or+4.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Next there followed a really steep corner which you had to layback and I found this desperate too! The rock felt greasy and just a bit damp and I was finding it hard for my feet not to go skiting! There was a chockstone jammed in the crack and I eventually managed to grab it but then it was all rounded horribleness above and having to get high feet and rock over. This brought you out into a whaleback with a small tower blocking the view of the ridge ahead. Having found that last pitch so difficult, I gave up on leading anything else, so scared of finding another reachy section and getting into trouble and I was exhausted after the overhang and layback. Nik led off round the tower and up the steep corner of the next pitch and onto the crux of the route. The corner was lovely, this was my favourite bit of the whole route. You were able to bridge out most of the way up and there were always small edges for your feet and good palming to be had. This brought you up onto a sheer knife edge and the exposure once up there was crazy! The knife edge arete ended at a steep wall. There was an edge on the wall to the left and a small foot hold on the right. Higher up on the right was a big, sloping edge and it was obvious that was the way to go. However, once I had my feet on the lower holds, and using a big undercut hold, I found that I couldn't reach over to a crack and I just could 't get rightwards at all to get onto that ledge. Stumped again! I decided just to aid the damn thing and got out my prussik and krab. Tying the prussic was really entertaining, teetering on top of a knife edge, leaned into the wall and no hands. Got it tied and heaved across to the right and up onto the ledge. A bit of scrabbling and grunting and trusting feet on nothing got me up and over.<br />
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I could see the team ahead on the plateau waving at us, they were quick to finish, obviously didn't have any problems and we did the right thing by letting them past in the end as although they were very slow to start with, they were faster overall. We decided just to follow the winter finish as time was ticking on and we were getting eaten alive by midgies and I just couldn't face anymore reachyness and thuggery. Even the winter finish isn't that easy and involves a few reachy moves. It finishes up a steep slab, then an easy bit, then a massive reach up onto another slab which I ended up having to aid yet again! And that was it, done and dusted.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUH5IB2w8FQPiICLt5BUHA17jrNrfEA84W0n3Z7lvfCSK7LdUsimxTpZaQ9Gwdla3aQ0LN_xKqMGeCi11D4aT9Aigs16TtSE64J7-EpgtR_CaFIMBIbxBWNCU88vaOerLCHEiIKOjNv9M/s1600/Nik+on+one+of+the+belays.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUH5IB2w8FQPiICLt5BUHA17jrNrfEA84W0n3Z7lvfCSK7LdUsimxTpZaQ9Gwdla3aQ0LN_xKqMGeCi11D4aT9Aigs16TtSE64J7-EpgtR_CaFIMBIbxBWNCU88vaOerLCHEiIKOjNv9M/s320/Nik+on+one+of+the+belays.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I found the route really difficult for severe as expected. I thought I might struggle with it, as I often do on the Cairngorm Granite. It's not a very forgiving rock when you are only 5'2" and can't reach the holds as many times granite just doesn't have intermediate holds of any type. And as well as my short ass stature, I have very limited flexibility so can't throw any funky moves and get my foot up to my ear! It was a great day though and Nik was brilliant company and I think he found my antics most amusing!<br />
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Nearly 8 hours on the route all together, with just over an hour of that on sitting about waiting for belays, and then probably half an hour added for me faffing on the second pitch and having to aid several moves. A lot longer than the 5-6 hours I was expecting it to take us! The walk from the plateau back down to the col went quickly, but the walk from the col to where it joins the main path seemed to take forever, with the last being going quickly too though. We were back at the van just as it was dark, sorted gear, drank the best cup of tea ever and ate lots of chocolate on the drive back home (or atleast I did!) Nik was probably eating potatoes which seemed to be his staple diet that day.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-26435910461301916062011-08-14T11:08:00.000-07:002011-08-14T11:08:30.529-07:00FROM RIDGE OF DOOM TO MOUNTAIN OF DOOM – 11th August<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:RelyOnVML/> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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</style> <![endif]--> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKrpJGwcwW1vBChowqI3ugvGg-VI6poGviQ3kRS7Xma02F7xfWdaqNx4iwSCHFbU_AsO4tp8T7FePaUzL-NMUdwVdtkBR90nu1yCMd-asoKH_DLpJV8pDCshS7JPTjchnyriO8ggkPpw/s1600/ALIM3586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkKrpJGwcwW1vBChowqI3ugvGg-VI6poGviQ3kRS7Xma02F7xfWdaqNx4iwSCHFbU_AsO4tp8T7FePaUzL-NMUdwVdtkBR90nu1yCMd-asoKH_DLpJV8pDCshS7JPTjchnyriO8ggkPpw/s320/ALIM3586.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Finally, at long last, we went to do the Dent Parachee today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I’m ashamed to say we didn’t make it to the summit due to an attack of nerves on my behalf (which I’m kicking myself for now!)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The title above shouldn’t really be mountain of doom, but mind of doom as I just got to the point again where I really couldn’t be doing with exposure on top of loose and chossy rock.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOicj5hAXh19F7wu9KWlErnoFqSPlviivuvU0-xDmELk7k31k_cXYEiUJpUfVGG70SQk5pPHxMBqhdrThN55qpb27ZVpDRbmJUptS1SORK47BW1dRvfkex27Fcib-2iPtPNjpicRdL8z8/s1600/ALIM3587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOicj5hAXh19F7wu9KWlErnoFqSPlviivuvU0-xDmELk7k31k_cXYEiUJpUfVGG70SQk5pPHxMBqhdrThN55qpb27ZVpDRbmJUptS1SORK47BW1dRvfkex27Fcib-2iPtPNjpicRdL8z8/s320/ALIM3587.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">We weren’t able to get booked into the Dent Parachee refuge which was just as well, as when we went path reccy’ing later that day, the hut looked really full and boisterous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead, we stayed at the La Fournache refuge which was really nice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Privately owned and smaller than the dent rufuge, but just nicer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were in a small room, just 5 of us and I actually slept quite well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Food was okay, delicious soup for starter, boeuf bourguignon <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and polenta for main dish (discovered that plain polenta is the most boring dish EVER!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then cheese and bread *and* some sort of weird blancmange thing (which was disgusting – I gave mine to D)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Breakfast consisted of white bread and jam and honey, the best cup of tea in the whole wide world and a glass of fresh orange (which gave me indigestion from the word go, knew I shouldn’t have drunk the damn stuff!)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzJw-GCTwu9uvVEjOYzAFm_W6Al7LOMv9_XdGvQvSAlETWU2XpULcb42BiRX34b2cBif-LfFISqq-wBxAjYYzljuhxsH5FkZEPssNSHvyPwv-MTpmQr5n2zqJSQIKvPJsASyPeNc2tbBk/s1600/ALIM3597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzJw-GCTwu9uvVEjOYzAFm_W6Al7LOMv9_XdGvQvSAlETWU2XpULcb42BiRX34b2cBif-LfFISqq-wBxAjYYzljuhxsH5FkZEPssNSHvyPwv-MTpmQr5n2zqJSQIKvPJsASyPeNc2tbBk/s320/ALIM3597.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">We were off by 4.50am, walking up past the Dent hut and onto the path into the corrie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The guide description mentioned an ever moving ‘punishing’ scree slope, followed by a 35degree angled scree couloir exposed to rockfall (helmets necessary, and it took a bit of persuasion to get D to wear a helmet)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Basically I told him I didn’t want to have to clean his brains up off the ground and we didn’t have the insurance to cover it anyway!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(who says romance isn’t dead)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I’ve been told that there used to be a snow slope leading to the Col where the ridge starts (and it may be that we were too late in the season.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hodges book mentions a permanent snow field at the bottom but there was no snow to speak of anywhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the snowlines and glaciers are receding in the Alps I am led to believe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So the climb up to the col was punishing indeed!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It started off by each foot step sliding down before stabilising and this became hard work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the middle it was better, with bigger stones and rocks so felt more secure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the top couloir was hideous!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the scree had pretty much vanished and all that was left was shattered bits of rock and mud.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had to go on all fours at several points and it became like climbing a slab of mud and rock, not nice!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And I put my helmet on before this point as it did feel quite exposed to possible rock fall.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_DvvmzHA1BeTHS-QcDPT2lfneMBfNzu-h_GUWqQRmob8Gv-WZIPmglAFWz2FXg34sm0C7aq5dRMq70T5KqOjuAmSIXo1EjNRYCt5bxYtgAtkjVAJDFrkafJeqFlZjbGD6jzHrSZeXZo/s1600/ALIM3600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje_DvvmzHA1BeTHS-QcDPT2lfneMBfNzu-h_GUWqQRmob8Gv-WZIPmglAFWz2FXg34sm0C7aq5dRMq70T5KqOjuAmSIXo1EjNRYCt5bxYtgAtkjVAJDFrkafJeqFlZjbGD6jzHrSZeXZo/s320/ALIM3600.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Past the horrible bit, the angle eased a little and it looked easier going but was still quite steep and muddy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But higher still and the mud had frozen slightly so it was more stable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We finally reached the col and the view of the Vanoise Glacier opened up and looked brilliant!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hadn’t been nervous about the climb up to the summit at all, thinking it would be similar to what we’d done previously in the Alps, like the NW ridge of the Balfrin via the Gross Biggerhorn or the WSW ridge of the Lagginhorn, ie wee scrambly bits of nice rock with easier bits inbetween.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, it was sort of like that but the scrambly bits were more like scrabling about on shite rock, where as the other ridges I’d done last<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>year were mint in comparison as regards the standard of the climbing (and the Lagginhorn has a reputation for loose rock, but it was solid as anything in comparison!)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuPqrnVFtJhxCr9E57D2QDDMbZhHP3DgxaQVbs-GrGbJygBpoTI37SIZbmjzA4-_pi3kRvEBHO0WT7rpO8uxGEJ-uNaUiVEDnaMt-rclj28xVzVSXNNHbLO-l0AcX1rnh0PjBOsqhAZc/s1600/ALIM3605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIuPqrnVFtJhxCr9E57D2QDDMbZhHP3DgxaQVbs-GrGbJygBpoTI37SIZbmjzA4-_pi3kRvEBHO0WT7rpO8uxGEJ-uNaUiVEDnaMt-rclj28xVzVSXNNHbLO-l0AcX1rnh0PjBOsqhAZc/s320/ALIM3605.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip-ROaDHMsFd5o6QitVH02DJucL6xKcr83qrrs6xo7NcoyymXhTFmt5ytXkDpSOD7BGooUYJDO-VkHTrFl4mA_y8woQtKbItJjeWMkR2AbkorWMvQIvXj2oFqJ2e3DY7-iujiNp0d0cLs/s1600/ALIM3606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip-ROaDHMsFd5o6QitVH02DJucL6xKcr83qrrs6xo7NcoyymXhTFmt5ytXkDpSOD7BGooUYJDO-VkHTrFl4mA_y8woQtKbItJjeWMkR2AbkorWMvQIvXj2oFqJ2e3DY7-iujiNp0d0cLs/s320/ALIM3606.JPG" width="320" /></a>So when I looked up from the col at all these crumbling spikes and bastions of rock, my heart rate rose more than it was already from slithering my way up that scree slope!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first pinnacle was bypassed on the left along a narrow ledge of shale and rubble which got narrower and narrower and more and more rubbly and exposed and scary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Until we came to a bypass and realised we’d gone too far.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We backtracked, my nerves doubled by this point by the chossyness and found some crampon scratches going up a short rubbly groove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were plenty of good holds underneath all the crap, but some felt dubious to trust and much gentleness was called for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This took us to the crest and a narrow path above which felt fine, just a little rubbly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we came to the bottom of a gully and Hodges guide suggested climbing the gully itself by a zigzagging path (don’t do this!)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We crossed to the bottom of the gully easily enough but the ‘path’ up the gully was scrabbling on mud and dubious rock, taking some time to search for more solid and reassuring areas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The top of this gully met at a narrow point ledge of rock with a steep gully dropping down the other side and a steep and horrible muddy slope above.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All our guides (Hodges, the French one and an old one from the 1980’s) mentioned a slip from this point having fatal consequences.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I tentatively inched my way up the mud, searching for solid little nubbins of rock to place my feet on and to balance on gently I was ever aware of this drop below and the guide descriptions and I wouldn’t be exaggerating to say that I was hating it and crapping myself!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I made it to the top with my palms sweating and my heart racing though.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlzCR4MG4WrrxLKdoww3KDaeeMXl-pXyeoKVhfpQeLfmHXFRBe6bmGv-uEUHZK14qELuaEUMNG_VxyPwaHf2H8Aa5fPazxklc4zTJGr6hJCV9EHP-IiGelTJR_S6JExUNa_n8XQIpdvmc/s1600/ALIM3609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlzCR4MG4WrrxLKdoww3KDaeeMXl-pXyeoKVhfpQeLfmHXFRBe6bmGv-uEUHZK14qELuaEUMNG_VxyPwaHf2H8Aa5fPazxklc4zTJGr6hJCV9EHP-IiGelTJR_S6JExUNa_n8XQIpdvmc/s320/ALIM3609.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Every so often I had been looking back down the way we had come up and thinking to myself, ‘holy shit!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How the feck are we gonna get back down all that steep rubble and mud?’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The higher up this mountain we got, the more nervous I became about all the objective dangers and how hard and awful it was going to be to descend!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think once at the top of the slope above the gully this is where my nerves about going back down got the better of me.</div><div class="MsoNormal">The next section was okay, just more walking along on a narrow ledge of rubble, the drop down the North Face, all though not as sheer as the cliffs of the South face, were steep enough that the thought of slipping on the way down was compounding to my already nervous state.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another little section of scrambling upwards brought us out onto the crest again and into the full sun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sun was glaring and blinding and squinting upwards all I could see was this steep narrow section, with ribbons of hard snow in places, not enough to need crampons on, but enough to warrant great care to avoid!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eIG6N-f7Em4SIettgh9ooL_B7a-ktslKJLc_zwCEsi8QaQ7i_xy3Zc7TCHmYAfAg3zIbqq-oErvcAjOki_UE3yV1iAgpfRaqzABhPEwOHJg-MwEzThn_tDWkd3w2im4sOGjFi0-a_xI/s1600/ALIM3611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4eIG6N-f7Em4SIettgh9ooL_B7a-ktslKJLc_zwCEsi8QaQ7i_xy3Zc7TCHmYAfAg3zIbqq-oErvcAjOki_UE3yV1iAgpfRaqzABhPEwOHJg-MwEzThn_tDWkd3w2im4sOGjFi0-a_xI/s320/ALIM3611.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">That was me, too much!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I just kept thinking the icy patches were going to make things worse, I was tired of the constant need for utter concentration, the sun blinding me (and the fact that I can’t seem to see very well with sunglasses on and feel almost suffocated when I wear them <weird i="" know!="">) and these thoughts that I might find the descent too difficult and dangerous was enough to make me stop and sit perch myself on the crest of the ridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bad mistake!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once I sat down, I got a little gripped and just didn’t want to carry on, I just wanted to get down and get off this awful, rubbly hill!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think if I’d just swallowed my fears as I normally do and hadn’t stopped and just kept going then we would have gotten to the top.</weird></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">As it was, I told D I wanted to bail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I said that I would sit here and wait for him to go up to the summit and come back down but bless him, he didn’t want to leave me to get cold while I waited (it was pretty windy and cold up there, just before 10am by this point)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So down we went and apart from one little bit above that steep gully, the descent was a total doddle!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was utterly kicking myself!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When I had been looking back down on the way up, the path that we had taken seemed to be really hidden and all I could see were these steep, rubbly slopes of doom but in reality, the easy way down became obvious as you approached it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, we could see where we had gone wrong on the way up!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The slope above the steep, dangerous gully had more solid rock to the left on the way down, with just a very exposed and loose step right at the top of the gully.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the gully that we had climbed up, we climbed down on its left wall also, which was LOADS more solid and much easier!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the time we’d gotten to the bottom of the gully, I was regretting my decision to turn back and by the time we got to the col I was utterly kicking myself for being such a wimp and letting my nerves get the better of me!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHh641rnYPxVLpQ-2_dVnDeuT4DFG0zoYaIWA3nQoIEh7dfKkRhLpTQ0qOCxRcRtvn1ma_Jw1ay7p-TW53Taef5zNO8ebls_aPLMSy08qDKT57hmts0tVTmIUlPYcl47e8VggIa4c_qrs/s1600/ALIM3615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHh641rnYPxVLpQ-2_dVnDeuT4DFG0zoYaIWA3nQoIEh7dfKkRhLpTQ0qOCxRcRtvn1ma_Jw1ay7p-TW53Taef5zNO8ebls_aPLMSy08qDKT57hmts0tVTmIUlPYcl47e8VggIa4c_qrs/s320/ALIM3615.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Neither of us fancied going back up though, too far now!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To go back up would have taken another hour and half to get to the summit I think, then an hour back down, and there was still the scree slope of hell to contend with, then the slog over the moraine and back to the hut, then shove all our stuff into sacks and back down to the van, and still the scary drive back down to Aussois!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No, that was it, I felt quite ashamed!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the same way that backing off a route due to loss of bottle has me kicking myself for day afterwards!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCMVCZOf-ig7Nu_Xfr1ybAJj1TVyZQozod6KpXJib88HlO6VbqgFNe9kZ6ewycgCVH4M1saSLCYN5N01qXf_pSEQhqEEp5btqNU3QHlBVh-C9nC3RnV5V5Qs3r0GxvAX_GWWt9hk_4m7M/s1600/P8112699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCMVCZOf-ig7Nu_Xfr1ybAJj1TVyZQozod6KpXJib88HlO6VbqgFNe9kZ6ewycgCVH4M1saSLCYN5N01qXf_pSEQhqEEp5btqNU3QHlBVh-C9nC3RnV5V5Qs3r0GxvAX_GWWt9hk_4m7M/s320/P8112699.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">And I’m still kicking myself for it today, but you live and learn!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I now know, that I’m perfectly capable of downclimbing steep, loose rock and that looking at things from directly above or below make them seem steeper and scarier than they actually are in comparison to viewing them in profile. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A friend mentioned to me yesterday (you know who you are…….) that it took him a couple of Alpine seasons to get into the swing of things and discover what he was capable of etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was good for me, and I think I have realised that as much as I love being in the Alps, I’m not so keen on soloing rubbly and terribly loose PD routes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t mind typical alpine looseness like we found on the Balfrin and Lagginhorn, but when it’s just sheer rubble, then I’m not keen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I prefer snow slopes and atleast rocky ridges that feel stable and reassuring, but there’s definitely got to be snow involved!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The whole experience left me deflated and really wishing that the whole holiday had gone to plan and that were in Gressoney and tackling the glaciers around Monte Rosa and Liskam area, my eyes specifically on Castor and Pollox.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_dJw8h-RJ9a9aQX9n7Y0mObC4EJrZrXLO6JUqoirb6l0AD5dI_roCk2LKP5K4ANc1PexbfldTggVYjHvEF7LNOC31AeliK7l1Mk899960SC7evLCys1B1wefy6IRaO24zfCDrlLv7ciU/s1600/P8112695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_dJw8h-RJ9a9aQX9n7Y0mObC4EJrZrXLO6JUqoirb6l0AD5dI_roCk2LKP5K4ANc1PexbfldTggVYjHvEF7LNOC31AeliK7l1Mk899960SC7evLCys1B1wefy6IRaO24zfCDrlLv7ciU/s320/P8112695.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">I even checked the weather forecast, thinking that we could get the van fixed today (Friday) then zoom across to Italy on Saturday, up to the hut on Sunday and climb on Monday, rest on Tues before heading home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But not to be as all the forecasts I could find said rain, rain, rain for Italy on Monday, gutted!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nothing was inspiring me here anymore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even the thought of going up Rochemellon which I had been keen to do, wasn’t enough to motivate me, more shitty crap I reckoned!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’d been keen to head up to the Vanoise hut to try and do the normal route on the Grand Casse but I’d heard bad things about the conditions come mid August and the forecast wasn’t looking promising anyway, with high winds and cloud again.</div><div class="MsoNormal">That’s it, enough!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As much as the Vanoise area that we had seen so far, was stunning to look at, as far as the climbing was concerned, it’s not for me, not in August anyway!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can image just how much better things would be with more snow, and that it’s really a destination that’s much better for climbing when there is more snow and it would be great for ski touring and for the folk that like doing walks from hut to hut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal">Still gutted about my attack of nerves though!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The view from near the top of Pointe Fournache where we bailed was stunning, you could see Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, and the Barre du Ecrin to the South.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>D is keen to get a guidebook to this area and go here next summer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ll have a look into it, but I want to go back to Italy and the Monte Rosa seen as we didn’t make it this time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And I’ve only got 2 long summers as a student left before I qualify as a Radiographer and hopefully start working.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anyway, we decided this morning, rather impulsively that we’d had enough of crumbly mountains and after the van was fixed we would start heading home, visiting a few places on the way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately there was a mix up at the garage and they didn’t order our new DPF.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we’re having to drive all the way home with a knackered DPF.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One person has said that there is a danger of the engine going on fire (eeeeek!) but according to most people, the engine will go into ‘safe mode’ whereby you can only drive it at 60mph.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This we don’t mind, quite happy to sit at 60 on the way back!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So I’m sitting typing this from a campsite in Troyes and we’re going to explore this ancient town tomorrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We’re also going to spend a couple/few days in Paris doing touristy stuff like climb the Eiffel Tower and visit the Louvre.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not usually my cup of tea, but I’m quite looking forward to it, though I’m sure all the hustle and bustle of Paris will be stressful in its own way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And I’m very curious to see the hotel which only charges 50 euros a night for a double room in the centre of town, it’s gotta be a seedy shithole!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Can’t wait!</div>Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-63874022645949557222011-08-10T02:18:00.000-07:002011-08-10T02:18:22.872-07:00RIDGE OF DOOM - 11th August<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:RelyOnVML/> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-GB</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Up earlier than usual (but still no need for Alpine starts!) to do the Point Signal du Mont Cenis (3162m) by its North ridge via the Col des Randouillards and the Pointe de Cugne.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This route goes at PD- but in this case the PD stands for POO Difficile rather than Peu Difficile!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Okay, it wasn’t quite as minging as the traverse of the Lessieres the other day, but the other day was just minging, but not particularly scary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today was scary!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We were following the guide book written by Andy Hodges and this boy really needs to get a grip with his imagination!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He described Lessiere like the Aonach Eagach which was a load of bollocks and he describes today’s ridge like a torridian ridge, again bollocks!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxEo6Dz2Plh8Rgv_8MYX1vUDOcJuw8wtFK1tAwikU19cPQ3q45gibuI00LHS8NAnKeY8U5kotdwBU9PY0L3eOubs6RBZGc2tF5_RH8nz9ZCagGNrI5QRs87vumU5kP_XfGifBAEMKMi4/s1600/P8092659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLxEo6Dz2Plh8Rgv_8MYX1vUDOcJuw8wtFK1tAwikU19cPQ3q45gibuI00LHS8NAnKeY8U5kotdwBU9PY0L3eOubs6RBZGc2tF5_RH8nz9ZCagGNrI5QRs87vumU5kP_XfGifBAEMKMi4/s320/P8092659.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The day started off cold and the only time it was warm was on the ascent up to the Col des Randouillards which is a slog and a half.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a direct route up to the col up a grassy gully and I don’t know why the path doesn’t go that way as it would be a lot shorter!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead, the path zigzags backwards forwards, backwards forwards forever and ever and ever and up to the windy col (gusting 20 today supposedly, though I’m<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>not sure it felt that strong.)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The route from the col up to Pointe de Cugne is pretty gross, but just normal alpine ridge affair I think and we met another couple up there who only went that far.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was pretty bloody cold up there and there was rime forming on the rocks and little icicles and patches of verglas here and there where drips had soaked the rock (thankfully avoidable unless you’re a dimwit like me and stand on a bit and have your foot go skiting, giving me an absolute shitter!)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxIPQoDOMm1I9jv74TbBQMLmg2RuGHNhfpaYaL7dlHFYGVb2exhOPE1f9Gdy20sHiksQNVdsxfoueoGaaPgqEcun8Tnd0YTG5hR-RUB1Tcp80nq7CAmm0wvnocBjDeCG9Q9u_uC_UGnM/s1600/me+on+ridge+of+doom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxIPQoDOMm1I9jv74TbBQMLmg2RuGHNhfpaYaL7dlHFYGVb2exhOPE1f9Gdy20sHiksQNVdsxfoueoGaaPgqEcun8Tnd0YTG5hR-RUB1Tcp80nq7CAmm0wvnocBjDeCG9Q9u_uC_UGnM/s320/me+on+ridge+of+doom.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">I think the ridge between the two peaks actually isn’t that bad, and I was just in a pretty negative frame of mind, because as I sit here typing this, I can’t actually think of why I found it so scary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a couple of exposed steps and my balance over these wee narrow points isn’t great.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found a lot of the downclimbing sections quite awkward with massive step downs and not much to trust your feet on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thankfully the schist is pretty grippy (who would have thought!)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My hands can testify to the grippyness of mountain schist, being a bit on the shredded side!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As can my favourite red softshell trousers!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So we get to the section of the ridge that I actually thought looked like the easier bit as the rock was cleaner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well it was cleaner but it was all fecking slab!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>D scampered up the slab like a scampery scampering scamper, I didn’t trust my boots, too slippy for my liking!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I went up a chossy groove to the side of the slab only to find I would have to climb a steeper wall above with no holds, uh uh, back down I go!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found a little chimney midway along and decided I’d try and go up that way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thugtastic!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Grunts and knees all round thankyou!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">There were a few other sections of scampering up easier slabs and short awkward downclimbs but they are pretty nondescript as I can’t remember much about them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Save to say that Hodges guide says you can go round most difficulties, but going round didn’t look like a fun or safe option to me!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiq6V0JjiENcfy7aDLTHJ1dRqqJQgzZPUkz1E4M3kpIvYAEhRdBUM7sxHOKoA6Nm0C3n04jbfs0vxB4Ku3Rh2YonOV9GxwhN3pD9evPN-KeV_m5tyEJ_RHrEgBGmOMycTyBjL3wdEL-gg/s1600/P8092663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiq6V0JjiENcfy7aDLTHJ1dRqqJQgzZPUkz1E4M3kpIvYAEhRdBUM7sxHOKoA6Nm0C3n04jbfs0vxB4Ku3Rh2YonOV9GxwhN3pD9evPN-KeV_m5tyEJ_RHrEgBGmOMycTyBjL3wdEL-gg/s320/P8092663.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Eventually, after an easier section of steep walking on rock and mud, came what looked like the last ‘pinnacled’ section.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Easy enough going up, a bit on the chossy side but how to get down?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I didn’t actually peer over the edge as by this point I wasn’t really enjoying myself and was eager to be at the summit and at the end of chossville and scaryville so I just took D’s word that it didn’t look great.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I remember there was a section on Lessiere that he didn’t like the look of to downclimb and I went to have a look, going first and finding it commiting but easier than it looked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did wonder if this was the case today as well, but D said right at the top of the pinnacle was a sheer drop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you went more left there was a lesser drop with holds that he could see but there were overhanging so that you would be pushed out as you downclimbed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This section was only around 3 metres high but took you down to a very exposed col, whereby if any hold snapped off when you were downclimbing and you weren’t lucky enough to land on your arse on the narrow col then it would be lights out time as you fell off the steep sided mountain.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">None of this sounded very appealing to me at all, in my negative frame of mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, even had I been feeling more bold, I’m not sure that section would have appealed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t mind soloing when things feel do-able but as soon as things feel risky, then it’s not for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And things can be risky but still feel do-able, it’s when you’re not sure of the outcome that I wouldn’t trust soloing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, soloing we were and had no rope, otherwise we could have just ab’d down this section (if we could find something trustworthy to ab’ from of course!)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsREacrb2djYNi-Oj3mw0WdyNl7tmH14YeoPjzv3Hff33C0dY4JX_zj_uwl4oD8FEYcO-Y7RtO-R9kRE2FkARnOZ5E37bDi_F6F82z1XmWXJUjZo1blvtp_UfVo5fUGqVLdAn0lVxZ0nI/s1600/descent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsREacrb2djYNi-Oj3mw0WdyNl7tmH14YeoPjzv3Hff33C0dY4JX_zj_uwl4oD8FEYcO-Y7RtO-R9kRE2FkARnOZ5E37bDi_F6F82z1XmWXJUjZo1blvtp_UfVo5fUGqVLdAn0lVxZ0nI/s320/descent.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As it was, we tried to find a way around this pinnacle as suggested in guide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a series of seriously steep and chossy mud ledges on the right hand side but that looked like death!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the left side was too steep and cliff like.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the end, we just decided to bail, first mountain I’ve ever bailed from and I feel a bit shamed that it was only PD, but better that that one of us slip and I was sick of all the choss and tired of having to concentrate by this point, just wishing the whole thing done with.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We had to back track and getting back down the previous pinnacle was interesting to say the least!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went D’s slabby way rather than my chimney which I didn’t fancy reversing (and not sure I could have found it from the top anyway.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I slithered down the slab until I came to the bottom which involved a wee overhanging corner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>D was able to slither right to the edge of this, use foot holds on the side wall and just lower himself down, but I couldn’t reach anything useful!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the end, we had to get D bracing himself at the bottom of the corner and use combined tactics to get me down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Basically, I used his shoulder as a hand hold to enable me to reach my feet down far enough to manage the drop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Job done!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPgi0KBy_xRu8eKjOXF-X_HqnKtZbImXnM3k_nFKO5sDwcYpcLRR7jR5Kt8whKnxaiVWEIERrt__FaX1JiiPAohxYXMwlSSiOfZrQCPkcwmbfrIdPRCD5Jz-sAVqJuqpbnxGf1zBxso8/s1600/P8092671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPgi0KBy_xRu8eKjOXF-X_HqnKtZbImXnM3k_nFKO5sDwcYpcLRR7jR5Kt8whKnxaiVWEIERrt__FaX1JiiPAohxYXMwlSSiOfZrQCPkcwmbfrIdPRCD5Jz-sAVqJuqpbnxGf1zBxso8/s320/P8092671.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Another few easier slabby downclimbs saw us reach a section where it looked possible to escape from the ridge, down a horrendously steep scree and rocky slope and down to a path below.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took the escape option!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As tedious as steep scree and rock could be it was far preferable to continuing back along to Pointe de Cugne and facing an unknown descent down its west ridge which might have been ming.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The scree was good enough in places to dig in with heels and glissade but only for short steps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just too steep!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then you’d hit a bigger boulder section anyway and slip on your arse, sliding down on a sea of moving rocks for a while.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was trying to zigzag my way down, finding less steep bits and more secure (ish) bits when I slithered down a large rock on my bum and my trousers got caught.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was the rip to my arse!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rats!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The slope wasn’t too bad going, just that 350 metres of it was getting tedious and tiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But before long we hit less steep ground, then more grassy ground, then the path.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve never felt so happy to be on secure ground!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then it was a boring, 2.5hr plod along a track, then a forest vehicle track back to the van.</div>Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-54913608476051602862011-08-06T12:28:00.000-07:002011-08-06T12:28:11.187-07:00ALPS TRIP PART 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vb9RartjgaqaE5ATIPr1XuNgZ2N1Ket3HetjOZmB16ylppgsF7AcxGoCg0R_cl_07fd4sK8K4y4wFWPagY7Q4kv0HCaqHt_uxQh7uAB0F648vJcaB1BG6YjZtz1pzDCNE9aMjJrLxFs/s1600/ALIM3582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vb9RartjgaqaE5ATIPr1XuNgZ2N1Ket3HetjOZmB16ylppgsF7AcxGoCg0R_cl_07fd4sK8K4y4wFWPagY7Q4kv0HCaqHt_uxQh7uAB0F648vJcaB1BG6YjZtz1pzDCNE9aMjJrLxFs/s320/ALIM3582.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">SATURDAY 6<sup>TH</sup> AUGUST - We were grounded over Thursday and Friday due to more problems with the van. After driving down the road on Wednesday, after the paragliding, the warning light for the Diesel particulate filter came on, followed by a flashing warning for the glow plugs. Doing some research, we think it was due to our drive down from the Col du l’liseran the other day. The DPF is supposed to keep your emissions clean by burning off soot from the diesel (or something like that) but to work properly it needs the engine to burn at a certain heat for a certain amount of time. Folk who make short journeys around town often have problems with it. Or, in our case, people who’s van engine runs from cold, from 2700 metres all the way down to 1000 metres without the engine heating up at all because the road is so steep that no acceleration is needed! This, compounded with our drive on Wednesday which was very stop and starty, trying to find take off places to paraglide, which weren’t in the cloud.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Anyway, D seemed to think that because it was only emissions that the van was fine to drive. But researching online we discovered this wasn’t the case and we needed to find a stretch of road where we could get engine speed up to 60mph or revs over 2, and maintain this for atleast 30 miles. But if the DPF is over a certain level of saturation then it needs to be sorted by a garage.</div><div class="MsoNormal">So Thursday was spent finding our nearest VW garage (in St Jean Maurienne, around 60km down the road thankfully!) We then drove there to try and burn off this soot, unsuccessfully. The usual communication problems ensued but they did plug in the diagnostic doodah into the engine and said that something needed to be updated after the work that was done previously (which was to repair some sensor.) We were told it was okay to drive the van and to bring it back tomorrow as they didn’t have time to fit us in today. Rats! That was 2 days of scorchio weather wasted on van troubles.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9XQR9pbgypttDXa1GawWPMCTHocm2q4BI1G7Bbm5Roh1qGA9LFhgCqZg1NmNUlSoKiWDLW3-Q00fTVfiy3EXayuuayrYU3L9xzQFgQhRaj4SQx0VclmNzAUvYYgv2nJipTkS4bI3pDjo/s1600/ALIM3583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9XQR9pbgypttDXa1GawWPMCTHocm2q4BI1G7Bbm5Roh1qGA9LFhgCqZg1NmNUlSoKiWDLW3-Q00fTVfiy3EXayuuayrYU3L9xzQFgQhRaj4SQx0VclmNzAUvYYgv2nJipTkS4bI3pDjo/s320/ALIM3583.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Friday we drove back to the garage, left the van with them and went for a shop in town, returning an hour later to be told that they had updated something or other and we now had to try and drive the van to burn off the soot. If this did not sort the problem then we would have to bring the van back a week later to replace the DPF (big job so will take all day supposedly!) So it turns out that booting the van for 30miles didn’t work and we now have to fork out a grand to get the van sorted!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Gutted! We were both very tempted to say, ‘feck it!’ and just start driving back home. This holiday has been jinxed by so many things so far that we’re not both sure that if we get up into the mountains then we’ll both fall in a crevasse and die or something! Although, I did say that maybe we should stay because fate might have us drive home and we’d end up in a horrific car crash or something! Yes we were both feeling rather pessimistic. In the end we decided to stay and I felt much more optimistic after finding a Alpinism guide in a local shop that has loads of interesting peaks to climb in the area. It is written in French but it’s 100x better than the guide we bought from Needlesports for this area, which is in English but is absolutely ancient!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0mtHVKFXBvPud9o8X54UMt4_3-6tPO_RpNlKY5jv7QG9M8PfsrJ-ZDuOmMCNwRcrR6wSYpwhGP5f7DlRcewAUDSh4Ka4np_Nc5ekhYGCF209YHiysIt2wCnQ1dVK4v3aoBS5aul4TU0/s1600/P8062635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0mtHVKFXBvPud9o8X54UMt4_3-6tPO_RpNlKY5jv7QG9M8PfsrJ-ZDuOmMCNwRcrR6wSYpwhGP5f7DlRcewAUDSh4Ka4np_Nc5ekhYGCF209YHiysIt2wCnQ1dVK4v3aoBS5aul4TU0/s320/P8062635.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">We spent last night getting pissed on a local Chardonnay and today we went for a short walk up to the de l’Arpont refuge which is a base for doing one of the local mountains above 3500m. It wasn’t very exciting (at all!) but it was still good to get out and stretch our legs after a couple of days of being cooped up doing nothing. We’d decided to walk there as the weather forecast was for showers but we could have done something more exciting in the end as there were only 2 very light showers during the whole of the day!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The walk up starts of steeply, through woodland, winding up and up and up and up for over 1000 metres. Like doing a munro, but starting at munro height! The scenery was pretty though once out of the woods and we caught snitches of the glacier above when the cloud cleared enough. At one point we came across a herd of sheep (there was hundreds of them!) with their 2 shepherds and dogs. The dogs are known as Pastou and they are big white, fluffy beasts which guard the flocks of sheep from harm. If you encounter them, they are supposed to be very interested in your presence and want to check you out to make sure you are not of any threat. Well the doggy we encountered was a gentle giant who came over to say hello and to be petted. Though I suspect he was possible an older doggy as there was another dog below with the sheep who was a bit more threatening.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> It wasn’t long after this point that we reached the hut, around another hour. It’s a quaint wee hut though I suspect it is privately run. I tried to ask about the peak above with a few folk but all that I spoke to had only been to a lake an hour and half above. I suspect that this hut is used more by walkers going along the GR5 from hut to hut in the Vannoise, as opposed to those climbing any peaks. We hung around for a while though (me eating cake of course!) feeding the free range hens that were pecking about and watching the marmots who were tamer than usual. Then it took us a couple of hours of slogging downhill to get back to the village shop and to the campsite.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5HQ3L6RbrsCyvdqJHYLYlULQ0bRAPzDTMzb43Jw2XQWuqfmRblfMSl6ZMDKyBG8WuZj2xX6elWvh7xYawMiibDSpTe8hwbKYtk2TwgGHsEMYMQ5NbaRJpCVDDf69xsRWxZIigVkBZ8cU/s1600/P8062644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5HQ3L6RbrsCyvdqJHYLYlULQ0bRAPzDTMzb43Jw2XQWuqfmRblfMSl6ZMDKyBG8WuZj2xX6elWvh7xYawMiibDSpTe8hwbKYtk2TwgGHsEMYMQ5NbaRJpCVDDf69xsRWxZIigVkBZ8cU/s320/P8062644.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Weather is for heavy rain and thunderstorms tomorrow morning so we’re heading to Modane to look around the shops. Then on Monday the weather looks a bit iffy too but Tuesday might be okayish so we may go up a peak called Rochermelon which is one of the easier 3500m peaks in the area, though a very long day. Indications are that Thursday may be okay, if so we’ll head up to the Dent Parachee hut on Wednesday and get up our first big hill on Thursday. Then the van has to go back to the garage on Friday. This has screwed up all our plans to go to Italy and the Monte Rosa but we’ll just making do with what is around here instead.</div>Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-62548590465761414832011-08-02T08:57:00.000-07:002011-08-03T05:55:26.758-07:00ALPS TRIP PART 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxK750ucb7U1-vL_VYt4Hraija3vzIc22uVSdErGz39F8A14usqhSq4ZoKgu69MA-g96zgY5TTtWDLufsZPcqpjFeNRIQHOjtIF1uMHN2Pfevxvef8B7NTGj0tpkSIebjUwltiXfH7RaE/s1600/ALIM3535.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxK750ucb7U1-vL_VYt4Hraija3vzIc22uVSdErGz39F8A14usqhSq4ZoKgu69MA-g96zgY5TTtWDLufsZPcqpjFeNRIQHOjtIF1uMHN2Pfevxvef8B7NTGj0tpkSIebjUwltiXfH7RaE/s320/ALIM3535.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">MONDAY 1<sup>st</sup> AUGUST - We did the Lessieres Traverse today which goes at PD and in my book, in this case, the PD stands for pile of dogpoo! Andy Hodges guide book to the area likens the ridge to the Aonach Eagach, what a load of bollocks! If you’re expecting the AE then you’ll be sorely disappointed. In fact, there was only one section really that had anything reminiscent of the Aonach Eagach and that was the descent from L’Ouillete which was quite exciting in a couple of places! The ridge starts from the highest col in Europe, the Col d’leseran at 2770m. D had been worried about the van driving up that high but I was more worried about the guide book description of the awkward descent from the first peak, Point des Lessieres. The ridge itself is only 8km from car to car but it felt like a really long day to me, traversing over four 3000 metre peaks, Point Des Lessieres, L’Ouillete, Pointe De L’Arselle and Pelaou Blanc, the highest at 3135m. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We started off pretty late in the day, around middayish after the van drive up which wasn’t *too* bad. D was amazing and drove the van really slowly for me, though probably just as much to stop me from squealing and gasping in his ear! The Col de L’iseran is a very touristy spot and was full of bikers (getting their photo taken at the top) and motorbikers (one of which was a complete and utter nutter, taking a bend fast enough that his knee was nearly scraping along the ground!) and general tourists and walkers like ourselves.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd3GoC8MahutzvaS9nWPFbMjnq49CW-zUOi82DJwBChCumQBqWFfqpFsiPOKPKlmlcPKOLMWof7ffUl9X6ZKqPqDI0d4zou8Wg5_9SUcKOVqP49OIemPbsHpGVkQF5_c47tMfFbMjDuv0/s1600/ALIM3537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd3GoC8MahutzvaS9nWPFbMjnq49CW-zUOi82DJwBChCumQBqWFfqpFsiPOKPKlmlcPKOLMWof7ffUl9X6ZKqPqDI0d4zou8Wg5_9SUcKOVqP49OIemPbsHpGVkQF5_c47tMfFbMjDuv0/s320/ALIM3537.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Because the col is so high, there is only 300m of ascent to be made to the top of the first peak. It started off pretty chossy, with one clean section of rock which had been ruined by an iron wire as a handrail, which was pretty loose anyway! I thought the rock might get nicer nearer the top but it was pretty minging all the way up. But just typical chossyness by alpine standards really. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieS1UOYy92hNnkeQFUfSgCSNvdD92-Em2qHeA8BWEtBy0FmDuf6xkv3APEoJO-jeJYQiViIfcTiGyj_eN2aTc0c__VAmLFq20vmSSj0CIZzZuBKVrCAGel4g_xHzQwedQEganmCIZxx_0/s1600/ALIM3541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieS1UOYy92hNnkeQFUfSgCSNvdD92-Em2qHeA8BWEtBy0FmDuf6xkv3APEoJO-jeJYQiViIfcTiGyj_eN2aTc0c__VAmLFq20vmSSj0CIZzZuBKVrCAGel4g_xHzQwedQEganmCIZxx_0/s320/ALIM3541.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">I was slow going up, getting some serious calf burn as I had my stiff boots on. I really need to get my calf muscles seen to as they are a literal pain! I had the excuse to slow down however when I got stuck behind a family of grandparents, parents and children heading up, the children being carried, lucky buggers! It wasn’t too long before we were at the top however but we didn’t hang about for too long. Couldn’t really get any pics from the top as the family were kinda in the way (it was a small summit!)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">So, to the awkward descent…………………</div><div class="MsoNormal">It wasn’t so much awkward as utterly disgusting! Now I know that alpine ridges can be chossy and loose but this was taking the piss! I’m used to ledges covered in loose stone and rubble, but this was just mud covered in loose stone and rubble! Not once of that descent was there any clean rock and nice holds, regardless of what the guide mentioned about nice incut holds, aye right!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QWI_vd9tjF3cpk3ykfcndEGGQ5hL8HOEKXgoY6hlfwghBJSiGE1mrptVVDUXTOMbon5nEdhu44z0V2RyypWciRwgSwMbOTnITmHaq5r5SWDOlp1p_w988LWtBIQOe4bCQ_IvtwGFncs/s1600/ALIM3543.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QWI_vd9tjF3cpk3ykfcndEGGQ5hL8HOEKXgoY6hlfwghBJSiGE1mrptVVDUXTOMbon5nEdhu44z0V2RyypWciRwgSwMbOTnITmHaq5r5SWDOlp1p_w988LWtBIQOe4bCQ_IvtwGFncs/s320/ALIM3543.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSBvJb9kc5twSASeP9m7xkHCRU2X1RePXaVKnm2zbSfjEk8ZVM2fmLdZQ4f5XtWQokUjAmjJ_6tY_QQkIPg46o_TTJCDUDOj89OqL0R_0nzg36NP99-dAsXHcqyVT3h0O9-lXFBYvoiw/s1600/ALIM3545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuSBvJb9kc5twSASeP9m7xkHCRU2X1RePXaVKnm2zbSfjEk8ZVM2fmLdZQ4f5XtWQokUjAmjJ_6tY_QQkIPg46o_TTJCDUDOj89OqL0R_0nzg36NP99-dAsXHcqyVT3h0O9-lXFBYvoiw/s320/ALIM3545.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The second peak however was much nicer. There were nice holds and cleaner rock here, though still loose and rubbly, but just typical alpine stuff. The descent from the 2<sup>nd</sup> peak also had a couple of tricky steps, though they just tended to look intimidating but were easy enough in reality. Apart from the one section, the rest of the ridge was either boring or disgusting. The ascent of the 3<sup>rd</sup> peak was the worst section on the hole ridge! To be fair to the guide book author, he does mention that the schist is slippery in the wet, and there was a section going up to the 3<sup>rd</sup> peak that was wet due to the melting snow. D had gone ahead of me after I’d stopped for a pee and after climbing a small section reckoned that the better way was around this big block. So I set off around it, easily at first, but the going underfoot got looser and steeper until I was faced by a traverse around a corner into a groove of 45 degree wet schist with muddy, ballbearing choss lying on top! Fecking great! I told D not to bother coming my way, that even though his way hadn’t looked great and had to be better than my way! And just as well as every step I took upwards was knocking loose blocks and dirt, tumbling off down the mountain. My heart was going like the clappers as I trusted each foot step to the choss and I exhaled with relief when I finally got back on to the crest and more solid ground.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8pccKHFu3MaGeGJ-EFWIoKKRV2fKXTxreHsninoZPrexb0jKJnMKYktOZFNpcVBKJhYRLVyosqsujewYkM5TcYZqJFWszFNQDwxYizhRxqz1_eupgit83z_jVEfafQIBarPOZakRFWA/s1600/ALIM3548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn8pccKHFu3MaGeGJ-EFWIoKKRV2fKXTxreHsninoZPrexb0jKJnMKYktOZFNpcVBKJhYRLVyosqsujewYkM5TcYZqJFWszFNQDwxYizhRxqz1_eupgit83z_jVEfafQIBarPOZakRFWA/s320/ALIM3548.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Quick stop for a bite to eat on the 3<sup>rd</sup> peak and it was just a walk down to the next col and up to the last peak. I think the only saving grace of the whole ridge was the 2<sup>nd</sup> peak but also the views. We’re not entirely sure what we were seeing but we could definitely see where we were yesterday and the Dent Parachee and Grand Casse, but we could also see what we thought was the Bar du Ecrin and possibly Mont Blanc in the distance. We thought we saw Gran Paradiso poking through the cloud at one point too.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTriKjUAObEGgAs9HZFeqM1yCf1UD0VT9w0uBhPyoW3jSYpGKD40tVxYzk9R121nuDkYqnRogTpWy-h4km4w4iHvHsESYqZ2gTfEDhJi36mlmjiN_R-0PYoJwlDuW5307dsRuq-318hk/s1600/ALIM3549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTriKjUAObEGgAs9HZFeqM1yCf1UD0VT9w0uBhPyoW3jSYpGKD40tVxYzk9R121nuDkYqnRogTpWy-h4km4w4iHvHsESYqZ2gTfEDhJi36mlmjiN_R-0PYoJwlDuW5307dsRuq-318hk/s320/ALIM3549.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">Yet again, towards the end of the day I started to get a headache. It’s definitely related to the heat! I really don’t know how to get round it as I lather myself in suncream, I have a sunhat on and sunglasses but it just exhausts me being under the glare of it all day long! I took a painkiller at the top of the 3<sup>rd</sup> peak but it helped a little but I could still feel it lingering in the background and by the time we were coming off down the last peak it was really grating at me and making me feel like my head was in a fuzzy bubble.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The descent involves crossing old glacier morain which seemed to go on forever and ever and ever. I wondered if the moon was like this, then I wondered if one day in the future, like long, long into the future, if space travel were ever to be possible, how cool it would be to go on mountaineering trips to other planets (yes, the heat was getting to me!) The moraine takes you down to the road and the path continued for around 3-4km back to the Col and the carpark. However, this walk back felt more like 10miles it seemed to drag forever on and upwards, the heat and sun beating down and totally zapping me, my head thumping and starting to go that ever so slightly delirious way when I’m drained and exhausted by the sun. I was glad to finally be back at the carpark but gutted that the café was closed, I had been so looking forward to ice cream! A semi chilled bottle of coke from the tourist shop had to suffice.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCOgxJflN2bWKE_Pfa_GIBkkti33iL9Ko7y4YJ0KRmB4ihSkZRfPubwfq3XCRqK67vsFpjWSwXSjc1jQaj2HcpZJMoBlvrryk7MtNy0aXtkIlaM_qkFssK4xHafGNZyN40Xz7Vo4IBeog/s1600/ALIM3552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCOgxJflN2bWKE_Pfa_GIBkkti33iL9Ko7y4YJ0KRmB4ihSkZRfPubwfq3XCRqK67vsFpjWSwXSjc1jQaj2HcpZJMoBlvrryk7MtNy0aXtkIlaM_qkFssK4xHafGNZyN40Xz7Vo4IBeog/s320/ALIM3552.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">D was great on the way back down, making an effort not to drive too fast, though I still squealed and gasped on a couple of occasions. We stopped off at Lanslebourg on the way back to the campsite, for something to eat and D even forewent his vegetarianism for the evening! Well, he didn’t have much choice really, the French just don’t do vegetarian food in these wee places. In fact, I don’t have a clue why folk go on about French cuisine cos it’s crap as far as I’m concerned. It’s all meat and one veg (not even meat and two veg!) and the meaty dishes are too meaty and too salty. We ended up with Duck leg and cabbage with bacon (there was no need for the bacon which just served to make the cabbage salty/smoked tasting!) In saying that though, D did have a goat’s cheese salad for a started which was actually really nice. I had Gazpacho, which wasn’t anything as nice as the Spannish. D had apple crumble for dessert and I had a lemon tart which made me cheeks sook in it was so sour!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZ3GJ4dqgd_k8-XP2TU63xpnxSDX0sGIURV-CAbC_YCHIASgzh7d9NoyXezJaPUx8f3TsnnRJrSzuVa5YSeV8oykOIHcXAwh328grvQPb3Ie9UdM6lyGrn2jbpS1YGTxJlomHehArrUM/s1600/ALIM3570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVZ3GJ4dqgd_k8-XP2TU63xpnxSDX0sGIURV-CAbC_YCHIASgzh7d9NoyXezJaPUx8f3TsnnRJrSzuVa5YSeV8oykOIHcXAwh328grvQPb3Ie9UdM6lyGrn2jbpS1YGTxJlomHehArrUM/s320/ALIM3570.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">TUESDAY 2<sup>ND</sup> AUGUST - Well today has been a bit of a non starter. We had planned to go up another 3000 metre peak by it’s North Ridge down by the Col De Mount Cenis area but the whole day has been a bit of a fuck up. Firstly, I forgot to set the alarm and D presumed that I was just meaning to have a lie in. I slept badly again, up between 3 and 4, too damn hot! And it was the back of nine before we woke up. We ate breakfast and then rushed off into town to find out about a paragliding session for Wednesday if possible, and to buy a loaf of bread from the shop (they have normal bread, none of this white baguette nonsense!) By the time we’d got ourselves organised it was nearly midday and we set off for the Col. Missing our turn off, we stopped at Lanslevard to turn back and it was then that I noticed pools of water on the van floor. I went to investigate and discovered that my bladder in my rucksack had emptied all of its 2 litres of water into my sack and onto the floor. Fecking great! We gave up on the idea of heading up the mountains today and decided to drive down to Modane instead for a spot of noseying around the shops. D and I then had a tiff which left me in tears and I didn’t feel like doing much of anything after that. I hate crying, it drains me even more than the sun does! And just at that point in time, I wished we’d never gone on holiday and I wished I was free of the humdrum that relationships can bring at times. But like all superficial emotions, the moment is fleeting and all it takes is one look at D’s eyes and I burst out laughing. My man. Ours isn’t the easiest of relationships, but I wouldn’t change anything for the world and I love him so much in all his idiosyncrasies. And I’m glad he puts up with mine.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXWryqJxiHax4_lOEQHLefbwENOJIpwD7FHsLzMLqjnEc4oXPeU0NjodJlXJlCh3TT46gBa6OI7lZd8AzbbWHrZ2G40-ZhOMuSHKF0HiwtRD6DP2kUoNsVMGatCM1536oXMnqQVlbywM/s1600/ALIM3569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSXWryqJxiHax4_lOEQHLefbwENOJIpwD7FHsLzMLqjnEc4oXPeU0NjodJlXJlCh3TT46gBa6OI7lZd8AzbbWHrZ2G40-ZhOMuSHKF0HiwtRD6DP2kUoNsVMGatCM1536oXMnqQVlbywM/s320/ALIM3569.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Crisis over, I dry my eyes, take a deep breath and then life is back to normal. We’re sat at the campsite now, climbing rope being used as a drying line for the load of washing I’ve just done and yes, yes, I know that ropes shouldn’t be out in the bright sun, but they’d be out in the bright sun if I was climbing with it and it’s only a short, old rope to be used for glacier crossings (if we ever get there)</div><div class="MsoNormal">Had a phone call from a man in the village earlier too and it looks like my paragliding session is all booked for tomorrow. Got to meet him outside the tourist office at 8.20am tomorrow. OH MY GOD! I AM GOING PARAGLIDING! OH MY GOD! I’m so excited and I just know that come tomorrow morning I’m going to be utterly crapping myself, eeeeeeeeeeek! I’ve had an inkling to try paragliding for years but never got round to it. Dunno how I’m going to find it, if I find fairground rides and driving in cars around tight bends sickening. But it’s going to be fun, oh yes!<br />
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</style> <![endif]--> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgutt61RhJ7riPNDGCgpTUU17qzaoC46PTdqRmcMuZfpg1c5J2CmKHMJCHqod3Rp2jVLp9WxJOPDYHQrAZqGTsyGRF56egpAWIpUr08oE8H1tS_5cQLYUxY0PVjtTtRrAIZIFSNsezTb3c/s1600/P8032610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgutt61RhJ7riPNDGCgpTUU17qzaoC46PTdqRmcMuZfpg1c5J2CmKHMJCHqod3Rp2jVLp9WxJOPDYHQrAZqGTsyGRF56egpAWIpUr08oE8H1tS_5cQLYUxY0PVjtTtRrAIZIFSNsezTb3c/s320/P8032610.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">3<sup>rd</sup> AUGUST<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>-<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So I went paragliding and it was AMAZING!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Usually I inwardly cringe when people use the word awesome to describe something really good as it’s just so American, but this *was* truly FECKING AWESOME!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only thing that I didn’t like about it was that we were only in the air for around 15 mins, just not long enough!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Met up with Philippe of By Air at 8.20am in the morning outside the Tourist Info building in Termignon then we followed his van to Lanslivard where we picked up another instructor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know this guy’s name but he was a clichéd surfer/snowboarder/midlengthed haired/goateed beared/dude type which tickled me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then drove further up the road and picked up more clients and more instructors and then waited about for 10 minutes whilst the guys decided where the best place to go was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The forecast was good for the morning but with the weather turning later in the day and there was cloud building in the sky and low mist forming which could make things too dangerous to fly.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2P3r11g5Og-k4jpzI9z-oRbrusE361oCmkNzgOta6pY7jAVrLaJZ-z_sQDM3I4gaxNlZoswcGM1mhf8Ab8RmUZMzLpzWR4u0IqNjxuDmJ322pZNdUs01soq4xPwC7Z8a_ntUizrNzZE/s1600/P8032613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD2P3r11g5Og-k4jpzI9z-oRbrusE361oCmkNzgOta6pY7jAVrLaJZ-z_sQDM3I4gaxNlZoswcGM1mhf8Ab8RmUZMzLpzWR4u0IqNjxuDmJ322pZNdUs01soq4xPwC7Z8a_ntUizrNzZE/s320/P8032613.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Philipe had some info that the lake at Mount du Col Cenis might be clearer so we drove over the pass and towards the Italian border.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, D drove and we followed the van with the instructors in it and the car with the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>other clients.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake was a no-go however and Phillipe was most apologetic but I shrugged it off, they don’t control the weather, much like a climbing guide wouldn’t control the rain on a cragging day!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we drove back to the main road and headed further up the valley to Bonival which is around half way between Termignon and the high col where we were the other day.</div><div class="MsoNormal">Thankfully the air was clear of low cloud here and it was safe to fly, hurrah!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Starting to get nervous<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>now………………<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgEVEfsRUn5tLry9DO4wHp0OV9A5u1y1-jwdqUU7M1JNj3-z2b8e3LRGIQOrp1iEyZHyv3yVw3OLNIbRXs2R1tfm-w9LKBZfPRMdQbi9TZ6kUxdHfigEyGO2eEUqBWiPMiy8aDMuCGhI/s1600/P8032614.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgEVEfsRUn5tLry9DO4wHp0OV9A5u1y1-jwdqUU7M1JNj3-z2b8e3LRGIQOrp1iEyZHyv3yVw3OLNIbRXs2R1tfm-w9LKBZfPRMdQbi9TZ6kUxdHfigEyGO2eEUqBWiPMiy8aDMuCGhI/s320/P8032614.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">D waited at the landing area for photos and I’m kicking myself for not taking my camera up with me as there was loads of opportunity for photos!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We drove up towards the Col de l’Iseran and then took a dirt track off up into the hills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Philippe asked why we had driven so slowly and I had to explain that there little, windy roads made me feel sick!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Paragliding instructor ‘dude’ offered me his hat to throw up in and they all had a good laugh.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I reassured him that I would not be sick in his van and I was hoping that they wouldn’t think that I needed kid glove treatment either.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGxDQDpQeb_z_EB-ybN7zGjucrsO4GIwD2VSiiakvnR_HFXGmfGhqF95rlq5Wz9TWzd8f29Uf8VEDke7GfTWSOCZBtUYKaUgyX9Azb6PgxwpE3rWZainXPyr0dCR35xf_7I0r8LwMVt8/s1600/P8032624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGxDQDpQeb_z_EB-ybN7zGjucrsO4GIwD2VSiiakvnR_HFXGmfGhqF95rlq5Wz9TWzd8f29Uf8VEDke7GfTWSOCZBtUYKaUgyX9Azb6PgxwpE3rWZainXPyr0dCR35xf_7I0r8LwMVt8/s320/P8032624.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Before long we reached the end of the track and the top of a bluff where I think they take off from regularly as there was a wind sock in place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Philippe explained to me that we were going to run off down the slope towards a drop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eeeeek!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He said that it wasn’t a big cliff or anything and that we would probably have taken off before we actually hit the edge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He also said that I shouldn’t sit down until we were off the ground as it ‘makes things complicated.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I guess if the instructor is trying to run forward and the client is pulling back then it aborts the take off if the client tries to<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>park their bum down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were 4 of us flying and Philippe let a couple of the others go first so I could see how they took off and everyone else sat down and had to start again!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was the only one who managed to take off properly.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivwSahNwMEGbMuVmcYS83q9MQhYJO_MxICe5-wvr-Xr2A1aM7E_ymKWGo7iyNosqsEolhOyOQ2D2o6aN1I8XUoLkCA9nYUg2Sjw7SWlJGiZfxe3ZV6sRSLQ_S7RMY2iao80uq0Ir1OJmE/s1600/P8032625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivwSahNwMEGbMuVmcYS83q9MQhYJO_MxICe5-wvr-Xr2A1aM7E_ymKWGo7iyNosqsEolhOyOQ2D2o6aN1I8XUoLkCA9nYUg2Sjw7SWlJGiZfxe3ZV6sRSLQ_S7RMY2iao80uq0Ir1OJmE/s320/P8032625.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">As he mentioned, we hadn’t even reached the edge of the slope where it dropped off steeply before we took off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was no lurching involved and it was really easy and non intimidating, piece of cake really! And wow, what a feeling!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’re sat there in this comfy wee canvas bucket seat with your legs dangling into the void below and you just cruise around and glide so smoothly and gracefully through the air.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On a few occasions we hit an upwards stream of air (I assume) and are lifted up higher and again, it’s really a really smooth pull up, not lurching at all, so I don’t get that lurching, sick feeling in my belly at all, just a wee surge of excitement, woop woop!</div><div class="MsoNormal">We fly past a gully with a river flowing down and he explains that you can often see animals stopping to drink there, but not today, then we pull in low to the hillside and I see a marmot running along the ground with it’s big, black bushy tail behind him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We lean into the direction where we want to turn and Phillipe doesn’t have to tell me when to stop leaning as it just feels natural to me and I know when to lean and when to stop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal">We glide down the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>hillside, back and forth and follow the high road for a short while.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought it would be cool to pass above a car but none came.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then approached Bonival and I could see the van below.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rats, don’t want it to end!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But Philippe turned the chute round and we flew over the village itself doing a couple of rounds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The village looked so cool from above,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>not quite as small as a toy village as we weren’t that high by this point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then it had to end unfortunately!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I saw one of the other gliders landing before us and the client skidded along on their bum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I asked if it was not more normal to land on your feet and it was explained to me, that just like taking off, clients always seem to want to sit and that there was an air bag under the seat to make it less bumpy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He just told me to stick my legs out and I would land on my bum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That was fun!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ground comes hairing up at you and you go sliding along your bum on the grass, I gave out another woop woop!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi16lr2UBuEqgHEjUznGyyCPJLirCp4HlESNpBdYbs-leoaNfP4y00k8WzhffkWnfLF4YKkGTmeYO8D59s_o9nRFqtTejMO9xm_CkZKmUgALlCoCHHugvlrrdo4uRjlgosnBAhznrlnhGU/s1600/P8032626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi16lr2UBuEqgHEjUznGyyCPJLirCp4HlESNpBdYbs-leoaNfP4y00k8WzhffkWnfLF4YKkGTmeYO8D59s_o9nRFqtTejMO9xm_CkZKmUgALlCoCHHugvlrrdo4uRjlgosnBAhznrlnhGU/s320/P8032626.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">This is something I just *have* to do again!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’d quite like to look into how you can go about learning how to paraglide as it’s just the most amazing thing ever, so peaceful and relaxing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can remember there is quite a lot to it though, like learning about reading air currents and what’s safe and what’s dodgy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Definitely gotta do some more of this!</div></div>Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-72769529522811467892011-07-30T12:33:00.000-07:002011-07-31T12:34:31.953-07:00ALPS TRIP 2011 -July 27th to August 18th<div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkFrZ4kRiCHW95TJ9WrWDBNMmtDmTcS7sy0aETCEb0h7RjWFUfxkJumouMOakhaymL1ek_TODCPw0jb_Qp0uOMcr_30u-IeyACYbPxqqD6B0gWDdzs_Fc1EOFA0u84HkAItKw97Mm5Sho/s1600/ALIM3492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkFrZ4kRiCHW95TJ9WrWDBNMmtDmTcS7sy0aETCEb0h7RjWFUfxkJumouMOakhaymL1ek_TODCPw0jb_Qp0uOMcr_30u-IeyACYbPxqqD6B0gWDdzs_Fc1EOFA0u84HkAItKw97Mm5Sho/s320/ALIM3492.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Sat out in the sunshine of the campsite in Termignon in the Vanoise Alps in France. The sun is shining and it’s good to be here. But Christ it’s been an epic and a half! D has been having some pretty full on dental surgery and I’ve been kicking myself for not suggesting that he cancel the appointment to have 6 teeth removed a week and a half before our trip. Yes, he’s had a lot of bother with them and yes, being a man, has buried his head in the sand that there was the slight possibility that there could be an infection and that’s why there is pain. So, after much nagging from myself and a dentist appointment and course of antibiotics later he was on the road to recovery. Problem one solved.<br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Problem 2, the van insurance…………….4 days before our departure date we get a letter saying that the insurance company want an extra £200 as they have no proof of D’s full no claim’s bonus as he’d forgotten to send the proof to his previous company. So, many phone calls later and we were still no further forward with Direct Line threatening to cancel our policy if we didn’t get it sorted. It’s a long and protracted, agonising and stressful story but I finally got it fixed. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwaZsmr2xd5fo8Fe_WfuUZGOG-Ijn9uiq00FIC-5GHCh6QyM6pUheZdyisyXHwbW7aQs0PFFznlNwTHyQHceE2LHU4AwuM0gNDzqIqPAjLBacCqYHRZutfhFqP1lA1YyQujFfjamlZQAw/s1600/ALIM3499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwaZsmr2xd5fo8Fe_WfuUZGOG-Ijn9uiq00FIC-5GHCh6QyM6pUheZdyisyXHwbW7aQs0PFFznlNwTHyQHceE2LHU4AwuM0gNDzqIqPAjLBacCqYHRZutfhFqP1lA1YyQujFfjamlZQAw/s320/ALIM3499.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwaZsmr2xd5fo8Fe_WfuUZGOG-Ijn9uiq00FIC-5GHCh6QyM6pUheZdyisyXHwbW7aQs0PFFznlNwTHyQHceE2LHU4AwuM0gNDzqIqPAjLBacCqYHRZutfhFqP1lA1YyQujFfjamlZQAw/s1600/ALIM3499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLvYr6r9M8gLG2UcLIwOb-pSjKncM0Vq7DWIc84UAExESKZaQZCzO2LIuxz5SouLoRsgZs9ehfMHE7f62z1llzxKdxVOqRAPHIwZRk5Z5cPTHrsiuNGfWk6Ph-LDgwMs6ggVBqSH_52Q/s1600/ALIM3514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLvYr6r9M8gLG2UcLIwOb-pSjKncM0Vq7DWIc84UAExESKZaQZCzO2LIuxz5SouLoRsgZs9ehfMHE7f62z1llzxKdxVOqRAPHIwZRk5Z5cPTHrsiuNGfWk6Ph-LDgwMs6ggVBqSH_52Q/s320/ALIM3514.JPG" width="320" /></a>Problem 3, D has some sort of reaction to the antibiotics he is on, nausea, digestive discomfort etc and yes, being a man, sits and procrastinates and is full of ‘woe is me’-ness and is undecided whether he will go on holiday or not. I feel utterly torn. Do I bugger off to France on my own and just play on some lesser mountains or do I do the supportive wife bit and stay at home with him and make sure he’s alright, knowing fine well that if he *is* okay within a few days and we’ve missed our holiday that I’m going to be a right grumpy and miserable cow for the foreseeable future. On the other hand, if D is at home, ill and I’ve buggered off to France, then what sort of unfeeling and selfish person does that make me? Anyway, problem 3 was solved when D decided that he would come along anyway, as we’re convinced that when his treatment is finished he will start feeling much better and regret not coming.<br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwpSb71QqyJZ4fHMoRp48o1QIbsTjJsyOi1ohdfR11KT9nxLCMRK9CjBqlELydaq8yvpwL7So5zsN3fh2i9lkcWWFcnWvhvJmkBc5ky_c9HgFiXiCSkzc_eODgOdJa1B2YFTCo1jlTcvg/s1600/ALIM3504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwpSb71QqyJZ4fHMoRp48o1QIbsTjJsyOi1ohdfR11KT9nxLCMRK9CjBqlELydaq8yvpwL7So5zsN3fh2i9lkcWWFcnWvhvJmkBc5ky_c9HgFiXiCSkzc_eODgOdJa1B2YFTCo1jlTcvg/s320/ALIM3504.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>Problem 4, problem with the van engine…………..we got as far as part way down the road to Lille from Dunkerque when the Engine Management warning light came on. We pulled over as soon as we could and D went to investigate. Oil, check, water,check, brake fluid check, um other fluid, check. No manual in the van, so not a Scooby what the light means. A quick phone call to Bekah’s Dad back in Dundee who although not a mechanic, is more clued up about cars that either D or I, and we find out that it could be something or it could be nothing! Basically, there is a problem with the engine and it will need a garage with a hook up to an electrical/computer diagnostic doodah. Plan…………..close all the blinds on the windows and get some shut eye for a couple of hours before we deal with the situation. D has had 2hrs sleep in the past 24hrs and I have had 1hrs sleep. We did try to sleep before Dover but it was too hot for me and I was getting restless legs and was too achy to sleep.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">So a couple of hours later and we’re driving to the nearest town where we find a Citreon garage only to be told that we need a VW garage. Thankfully there is one in the nearby town of Hazebrouck and it doesn’t take us long to find. A wait of a couple of hours and one hundred euros down and the van is fit for the road again. Don’t have a clue what the problem was as the bill is in French (google translator might come in handy later on) The man did come out and point to the bit that needed replacing and it looks electrical but I don’t know what it is.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I had been dreading problem number 5 being the campsite full, sorry no spaces but thankfully here we are. D is still feeling under the weather and now I’m not so convinced that it’s a side effect of the antibiotics as I’ve had to rush off to the toilet twice now and I’m feeling dizzy everytime I stand up. Feel like I’m coming down with something. Rats! Two ill and grumpy feckers on holiday, joy! I WILL NOT BE ILL ON HOLIDAY! </div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPcayS5V0AQwdikoxUEPKCzBDAxUhSWP0NnOwqpaIJV8DIRmYge60KhPew2hNZMy8gmUv0IR7wiRzux7NUGi3L1EaqIVy5Ch-7YDqKTuR8Yh0pJWnOJ4KnwWl35_-g8k08wyAyn3Hey4/s1600/ALIM3515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNPcayS5V0AQwdikoxUEPKCzBDAxUhSWP0NnOwqpaIJV8DIRmYge60KhPew2hNZMy8gmUv0IR7wiRzux7NUGi3L1EaqIVy5Ch-7YDqKTuR8Yh0pJWnOJ4KnwWl35_-g8k08wyAyn3Hey4/s320/ALIM3515.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Plan is to walk into town for some maps tomorrow then perhaps take a walk up to Lac Blanc and a nearby refuge. It’s a short walk of 6km with nothing strenuous so I’m sure we’ll manage in our present state. Although toilet stops could get interesting!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Sat 30<sup>th</sup> July - Well, I’ve gone back to thinking that the problem with D is related to the antibiotics and my grumbly tummy is just to do with eating crap like Beanfeasts and tinned beans and sausages on the way down. A wee grumble this morning and fine after that. But D is still not feeling 100% so I was on my own today on the walk up to the Lac Blanc. We went into town first to buy some maps, mission successful and we now own maps of Les Trois Vallees, Val Cenis and Tignes, Val-D’Isere Haute maurienne.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Termignon is a lovely wee place! With old French looking buildings and plenty of wee tourist shops. There are 2 cheeseries which I’m sure Bekah would love and a chocolate shop which of course had to be visited! Also found an outdoory type shop which has a sale on and has a softshell jacket similar to the one I own (over £200) which is on sale for 35 euros, very tempted to go back and buy it! I’ve also discovered that they do tandem paragliding rides nearby for 70 euros and I’m really tempted to give it a go one day.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqUXXdlFkz1KRwPwt2s-n1ftOrVj7i8eMYstlCZDhHMChWpDhlFb8fQkA6Qcj6tensrf7wmD5NlfK_LmeyTtlco3SMtlsfydzXBxWT_g4Pvcpdae8edLJ6OEoXan8VFTAwtqBj18yDO-Y/s1600/ALIM3517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqUXXdlFkz1KRwPwt2s-n1ftOrVj7i8eMYstlCZDhHMChWpDhlFb8fQkA6Qcj6tensrf7wmD5NlfK_LmeyTtlco3SMtlsfydzXBxWT_g4Pvcpdae8edLJ6OEoXan8VFTAwtqBj18yDO-Y/s320/ALIM3517.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>So after our trip into town, D decides that he’ll just stay at the campsite and maybe go for a wee stroll later, so I get my stuff sorted and head off for a local bus that takes you from Termignon up to Bellacombe for free. The bus ride is scary! Horrible, narrow, windy alpine tracks, sharp bends above hair raising drops, sickening! I had to clutch my seat on several occasions! Half an hour later and I’m there and happy to jump off the bus. I spot my path pretty much straight away and head off.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I can see tantalising wee glimpses of spikey and snowy peaks poking out through the cloud on occasion and they look gorgeous, definitely got to get up there soon! Signs say half an hour to the lower carpark of Coetet but I’m there in much quicker time, even after a short stop off at the Saint Marguerite Chapel. Cross the road at the carpark then slog up to the Lac Blanc. Crikey, I’m not feeling that fit and this is an easy walk! There’s just one little steep section at 2187 metres and it’s got me huffing and puffing a bit, but I’m determined to keep the same pace and not slow down, my calf muscles don’t thank me for it!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioNZVCJX8Px1GUa-vkaozcXV3G492sAl3J5zFgyXTcOayZe_kAeKNursg7teKMYmfyV6QJQd3-fYClKOdoWo55JhCQfFgh-e0G_ErEKuflkll5fiaWduyoroOMhnDHkfL6eE8JVjkQqx0/s1600/ALIM3523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioNZVCJX8Px1GUa-vkaozcXV3G492sAl3J5zFgyXTcOayZe_kAeKNursg7teKMYmfyV6QJQd3-fYClKOdoWo55JhCQfFgh-e0G_ErEKuflkll5fiaWduyoroOMhnDHkfL6eE8JVjkQqx0/s320/ALIM3523.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The lake is really pretty, but even better is the view up to the Vanoise Glacier and peaks above and then West across to the Dent Parachee. That looks an impressive mountain and I’m looking forward to climbing it, hopefully this week some time! There’s a lot more snow about than I’d expected though. I know that Chamonix has had a hell of a lot of snow but I thought with this area being lower that it wouldn’t have gotten as much, but anything over around 2500-3000m has snow on it, albeit patchy lower down. I hung around the lake for around half an hour then made my way up to the Refuge lacBlanc, declining a visit as I wanted to press on.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Arrived back at Bellacombe an hour before the next bus was due back to Termignon and recalling that I’d seen signs on the way to Coetet that said Termignon was 2hrs away, I decided to walk back rather than take the bus. Quite glad I did as it was a nice walk through the Forest Domaniale des Sallanches passing buy some funky limestone towers on the way and an equestrian centre which had the cutest little foal ever wandering about who came over to say hello and have his neck scratched. I made it back the campsite from Bellacombe in 1.5hrs, beating the bus anyway!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Not sure what we’ll do tomorrow yet. D is looking through the guide book and hopefully he will be fit enough to do something. Hopefully a longer walk (todays was 4.5hrs, in the baking sunshine I should add) than today and maybe a wee scramble if he feels up to it.<br />
<br />
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</style> <![endif]--> <div class="MsoNormal"><u>SUNDAY 31ST</u></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioH3JaVz0LFbatw0HsNtA95i-szuOcjFtRYrFHDDKXehQEgY2CIBg1NHEdPTtEJxi_ajM6qcBYQooUbTIahIMYqIdXi0LYkTItHEScyojt5YWGIdrWn5-uAWhq6OlIcAr19cmsW2L38I8/s1600/ALIM3527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioH3JaVz0LFbatw0HsNtA95i-szuOcjFtRYrFHDDKXehQEgY2CIBg1NHEdPTtEJxi_ajM6qcBYQooUbTIahIMYqIdXi0LYkTItHEScyojt5YWGIdrWn5-uAWhq6OlIcAr19cmsW2L38I8/s320/ALIM3527.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>D finally made it out , woop woop!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So much nicer to have his company rather than beon my own.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He just fancied a fairly short day though to see how weak or strong he felt, but in the end he was going totally fine and fitter than me as usual!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took a walk up to the Pointe de Lanserlia at just under 3000 metres.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took the bus up to Bellacombe again, with me on the seat away from the window.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ve discovered that if I close my eyes and don’t look at the bends and drops then I don’t feel so sick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We caught the 9.30 bus and were walking by 10.20.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’d bought Andy Hodges guide book called Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne but his description of where to go was at odds with what I was reading on the map.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could see the ridge up to point 2879m on the map and I could see the same ridge poking it’s head out from the mist, but I was confused by descriptions of passing Le Plou where you can buy cheese and eggs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The path doesn’t go past this farm at all!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So if anyone is reading this, then simply follow the GR 5 path until you pass the first ravine and this is where you start going uphill, there is a faint path.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rest of the description is correct enough though.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Soon we were dragging our asses up the steep and grassy hill (well, I was dragging my ass, D seemed to be going fine, and the ridge isn’t that steep but it felt steep to me.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I seem to feel the effects of altitude really easily and starting at anything above 2000m then I can feel it alright!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We reached the first top in just under 2hrs after much fannying about with D having to find a source of water to fill his bladder and then getting confused by the guide description.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ended up walking along the GR 5 for far too long and having to back track and contour up towards the ridge.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBrGSfbPHHFi99IXVzM50rj_LXbexALb4OtaMKg_D3vasoTCfuYcAlvSbxVFKMyA4ziNYyahHioC7YsNXtWUIiYH57RUyO5JcZrssBbDMcaEOK3ivSPHXuWUTFni_ZhBIoUyvBnELF5c/s1600/ALIM3528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBrGSfbPHHFi99IXVzM50rj_LXbexALb4OtaMKg_D3vasoTCfuYcAlvSbxVFKMyA4ziNYyahHioC7YsNXtWUIiYH57RUyO5JcZrssBbDMcaEOK3ivSPHXuWUTFni_ZhBIoUyvBnELF5c/s320/ALIM3528.JPG" width="320" /></a>The views from the top are amazing though!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Across to Grande Casse, her South Face looking like a Torridian mountain and covered in snow with the huge fracture line of a cornice at one point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Made me wonder how much snow is on this hill on the North side!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In front of the Grand Casse we could see the funky looking Pointes de Pierre Brune looking like something from some deserty region in America.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, it’s an amazing place altogether.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Walking down from our peak it seemed funny to me that we were walking down this green valley, with rocky, tottering towers above, and snowy peaks higher still.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like 3 separate places all in one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Over to the East we could see the Impressive looking Point du Grand Vallon (which I’d like to climb on this trip) and the even more impressive Grand Roc Noir at 3582 metres, it’s towers covered with snow and looking very intimidating indeed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be curious to see what this peak goes at and if there is any serious climbing on it’s eastern cliffs which look really impressive!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Back to the SW we could see tantalising glimpses of the Dent Parachee peeking out of the cloud, another peak we plan to do on this trip.</div><div class="MsoNormal">It doesn’t take long at all to reach the summit of Point de Lanserlia from point 2879 and we hung around for a while on the summit, just relaxing and taking photos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just to the North of this peak, lie the Rochers de Lanserlia though I don’t imagine there is much climbing on them as they look pretty tottering and chossy, but impressive to look at all the same!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSA9IDXzswxKB5XJPUZGE3WMqxcXYUcyOllbfoGWTVRu5cF8TuRJVeRPYPXz3cN3uBJgGBSNdYzEoAqGiGe-5eCDBLWZ4e1zYQmTKMfqjH50trZa06rONboAlb1R_yQyuU2ghlN73Hc3k/s1600/ALIM3512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSA9IDXzswxKB5XJPUZGE3WMqxcXYUcyOllbfoGWTVRu5cF8TuRJVeRPYPXz3cN3uBJgGBSNdYzEoAqGiGe-5eCDBLWZ4e1zYQmTKMfqjH50trZa06rONboAlb1R_yQyuU2ghlN73Hc3k/s320/ALIM3512.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal">The way down into the Grand Vallon is really pretty and at one point there is a really curious hole in the ground surrounded by chalky limestone walls which looks almost like the remnants of an old glacier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m really curious to find out if it is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once down into the valley, it’s a bit of a slog back along a level track which reminded me of the Pony Track on Ben Nevis back home, simply due to the fact that there was so many people!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We were pretty early for the bus back to Termignon so we stopped off at the touristy refuge du Plan du Lac and I had 2 cokes (the woman though D wanted one too so I drank his as well as he didn’t want it.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also had the most delicious apple crumble I have ever tasted in my entire life!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mmmmmmmm, nice crumbly pastry, with an apple filling, topped with a crumble with pieces of almonds and raisins and sprinklings of cinnamon, topped off with a side serving of a little cream and a drizzle of some sort of liquer.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I’d been getting a crappy headache and stopping off and eating and having a big drink, necking some painkillers in the process, seemed to shift it into the background.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m still none the wiser as to what causes these headaches when I go on holiday as I seem to get one every time!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although I didn’t get one when I went to costa Blanca.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m still sure it’s to do with exerting myself in the heat rather than anything to do with altitude.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was up at 3000 metres today and my head was fine, it only got sore once we were lower (at 2400) and I didn’t get a headache yesterday.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They seem to come on really quickly as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One minute I’m fine and then within seconds I’ve got a horrible headache.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Luckily this one wasn’t too bad, there was just one moment where it was thumping when there was an uphill section.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I made sure I was wearing hat all day today though I didn’t put on my sunglasses until later in the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And I’m sure I was drinking plenty as when the headache came on and I made an effort to drink, I started needing the toilet every bloody 5 minutes!</div><div class="MsoNormal">The bus ride back to Termignon wasn’t too bad with just a few intakes of breath as the driver kept on braking too suddenly for my liking!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We made a quick visit to the outdoor shop which was still open and I bought a red softshell jacket made from exactly the same materials as my Mountain Equipment one but around £200 cheaper!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And D bought himself a pair of approach shoes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We’re going to do a traverse of the Lessiers tomorrow which goes at PD and is supposed to be similar to the Aonach Eagach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another day of sun forecast for tomorrow, should be good!</div></div>Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-29808537751400696792011-07-15T13:39:00.000-07:002011-07-15T14:00:19.849-07:009 MUNROS AND A COUPLE OF RUNS - 9th to 14th JulyPhew! I've survived the first year of marriage intact, crazy considering if you'd told me a few years ago that I'd be settling down and getting all responsible by living in a bought house, studying a professional degree at Uni and being a Mrs, I'd have said you were off yer rocker! But there you have it, one time school drop out (tender age of 15,) habitual runner away from home rather than be grounded after too much under-age drinking, party animal and general wild child is now a non-smoking, pretty much non drinking (bar the 'odd glass of Chardonnay or preferable Sauvignon Blanc'), law abiding (mostly, apart from yesterday evening when we drove away from a campsite without paying after having half used their facilities, but that was in protest at their utterly disgusting price!), aspiring healthy person. What a year it's been! I guess we are an odd couple, a silent and moody Aspie bloke and a foul mouthed and emotive woman make for an interesting combination.<br />
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So we've had a fab week this week but I think we're both glad to be home and out of the confined living space of the van where we start doing each other's heads in a bit I think. D, (being a bloke) and being slobby and me nagging at him to have a bit of courtesy (no, I don't like your dirty socks that you've just worn for the past 9hrs (and the previous day!) through heather and bog sitting on the surface where I'm about to cook our evening meal, nor do I like you picking out your nose hairs and pinging them over my shoes, nor do I like your toothpaste spit being left in the sink where I'm about to wash my face, yes I'm a bit precious about these things :oD Our 3 week trip to the Alps is going to be testing and I remember frayed tempers last year, so we're taking a tent this year so one of us can escape for while if need be for our much needed space. It's funny how someone that you can love can equally drive you bonkers.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2F-L5WlNqAuyX5PWeuvXjX6av0E72ZOkf8zXA80UeddLNodN3YZOBk0qKNtaNmB92gmcO-4d1OxK7NAWagP9kQV0P5aA6hlalVF0ATSqMYeDkLevMlvizZ3HVvR5PQTvnD2nB1JNTpg/s1600/Froggy+in+the+col+between+Ben+More+Glen+and+Inverlochlarig+Glen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG2F-L5WlNqAuyX5PWeuvXjX6av0E72ZOkf8zXA80UeddLNodN3YZOBk0qKNtaNmB92gmcO-4d1OxK7NAWagP9kQV0P5aA6hlalVF0ATSqMYeDkLevMlvizZ3HVvR5PQTvnD2nB1JNTpg/s320/Froggy+in+the+col+between+Ben+More+Glen+and+Inverlochlarig+Glen.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Friday saw us drive up to Inverlochlarig and up fairly earlyish to head up Ben Tuleachain, Cruach Ardrain, Ben More and Stob Binnein. The forecast had been for showers coming later in the day so we were keeping the option open to bail after the first 2hills if need be. I don't think it's normal for most folk to do these 4hills together, more normal to do them in 2 lots of 2 and we were out for 9hrs with 2140 metres of ascent and just a smidgeon short of 12miles in distance. We didn't need to bail as the weather was fine, with just one small shower as we approached the top of Ben More. Was a bitty nippy though and the shower was a bit sleety with a bit of hail thrown in which had me worried about thunderstorms, but none materialised. No more showers but we were clagged in for the rest of the day until we got down lower off Binnein. And lo and behold was there not bloody cows at the bottom, cows which refused to move even as I approached cautiously and started waving my poles at them. It took me roaring and a big lunge with the poles to finally get rid of the beasts from my path! Once down, we drove back down to Lochearnhead and down to Inverarnan and the Drover's Inn where we had a double room with jacuzzi no less. Sweet way to spend you first anniversery and a lovely day and evening were had by both! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn76URKuA5CM4bnKVx6IbDYP7yJwO0bU8TB9jxtXKI4dBfEIUs_qxi1sEZTYzA6EGB5dsjIOI-CcZ9K-a5lN2xXVx-aJiJSU4IX7efWx-IHYAxK3XJPOahv-S9PjJ2rv2xNgZsfd87ey4/s1600/D+making+his+own+convuluted+way+up+Ben+Klibreck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn76URKuA5CM4bnKVx6IbDYP7yJwO0bU8TB9jxtXKI4dBfEIUs_qxi1sEZTYzA6EGB5dsjIOI-CcZ9K-a5lN2xXVx-aJiJSU4IX7efWx-IHYAxK3XJPOahv-S9PjJ2rv2xNgZsfd87ey4/s320/D+making+his+own+convuluted+way+up+Ben+Klibreck.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Sunday's plan had been to nip up Beinn Chabhair but the morning brought some heavy rain and neither of us felt inspired so we decided to make the drive up to Skye instead. Our original plan had been to make an attempt on a traverse of the ridge but D had forgotten to bring his water bladder (far too heavy carrying bottles I reckon) and I'd actually forgotten to buy one! So we moved on to plan B which was to go up some Moderate scramble on to Sgurr Mhadaidh, over onto Sgurr Ghreadaidh and possibly Banachdich after. Follwed by all the munros at the other end that I hadn't done the next day. We parked up in Fort William to buy a few bits and bobs and checked the weather forecast on the laptop. The charts didn't look that promising with a big trough across the country over the next few days. However, the far North was far enough away from the trough and there was a high sitting to the North too. That was it, decision made to head North after a quick visit to Nevis Sport for a few new OS maps. Great decision too as though we had a bit of a drizzly day on Monday, both Tuesday and Wednesday were amazing.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6G4aQXLGbfUbSwYPcNUhZXbyl0tJY0cmF3PokRljZw9He8mqw_nXyIOGF0THhH6OFBNmnP58XnWuEHSkOAJRyVWpQ8HnS3KXOK9gl6NL_30Ys8BJGlgrg4nCpm5kGqygVlU1BB6-UdU/s1600/The+pretty+Loch+a+Bhealaich+on+the+south+side+of+Klibreck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6G4aQXLGbfUbSwYPcNUhZXbyl0tJY0cmF3PokRljZw9He8mqw_nXyIOGF0THhH6OFBNmnP58XnWuEHSkOAJRyVWpQ8HnS3KXOK9gl6NL_30Ys8BJGlgrg4nCpm5kGqygVlU1BB6-UdU/s320/The+pretty+Loch+a+Bhealaich+on+the+south+side+of+Klibreck.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Driving up North didn't seem to take too long either and before long we were parked at the South end of Loch Hope in readiness to head up the North Ridge of Ben Hope the next morning. Now I just thought it was a wee easy scramble but according to D it was meant to have quite a tricky and exposed bit on it. The day dawned fair enough though looked a bit threatning and I was nervous of coming across anything too hard if it was going to be wet. And wet it was. The rain started not long into the walk in, which we did in a convuluted and strange way, going directly up the hillside from where we parked up, steeply up to Dubh loch na-beinne. By this point the mist had clagged in and it was impossible to see a way to breach the North West cliffs. We decided to contour around to the very start of the North spur and boy was that a slog and a half! Fecking boulders! I HATE BOULDERS!<br />
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I mentioned that as punishment for criminals, instead of community service etc, we should get them all filling in random holes in the ground that I always seem to fall in, or go over my ankle in and get covered in bog, and they can fill them in with all the blasted boulders from boulder fields! Job done!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzVYNxZex4iXCSA5SCeQQlONZHLnVP6ziPYwqxPKrLuK5nLWxjgKWQ0hxkytu7SXfRRjRBwbsUiKMajvvW6VeHxL-HiVjqqSRMRxoOmcggHkNQAZMpJahPst-HYqBKgTwHlJqXwqIrCs/s1600/A+little+peep+of+Coigach+and+Assynt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjzVYNxZex4iXCSA5SCeQQlONZHLnVP6ziPYwqxPKrLuK5nLWxjgKWQ0hxkytu7SXfRRjRBwbsUiKMajvvW6VeHxL-HiVjqqSRMRxoOmcggHkNQAZMpJahPst-HYqBKgTwHlJqXwqIrCs/s320/A+little+peep+of+Coigach+and+Assynt.jpg" width="320" /></a>Anyway, the North Ridge was boring until the top and the scramble was far, far too wet and dripping and slippery for my liking. A wee slip and it would be bye bye, lights out time for sure. You have to traverse round onto the face and peering over the edge it's actually overhanging and looking down made me feel quite sick. So we bailed and took the easy option of a wee gully round the back which still needed hands and made my fleece gloves absolutely sodden. I had gloves on after my walking poles gave me a blister on Saturday, which then burst, leaving a stinging hole of rawness. So that was that, Ben Hope bagged but no view on top which was gutting as I bet the view up there is amazing! On the way down we met some dude who had been walking since the 25th March, from Penzance to Land's End, taking in a few hills on the way.<br />
We had a moment of weirdness when we starting dropping out of the mist. The Strathmore River was the first thing we saw and for a short time, it looked like a river of snow, running down a hillside, funny how the mist really distorts things!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmEysAG8sOgwB6kzwTJu9DHWa8AV7SQQlmTG7ecdat5XGpOptKQLeY8N11KoImiWqQLCvRqMTGwNiWg5d20ialHEakWwOU_Q4Vi2pOFS_umS6OvW_UzE3QRLTqXBXm7KafF79MpLzflI/s1600/Coigach+my+favourite+place+in+Scotland+viewed+from+the+way+up+Conival.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmEysAG8sOgwB6kzwTJu9DHWa8AV7SQQlmTG7ecdat5XGpOptKQLeY8N11KoImiWqQLCvRqMTGwNiWg5d20ialHEakWwOU_Q4Vi2pOFS_umS6OvW_UzE3QRLTqXBXm7KafF79MpLzflI/s320/Coigach+my+favourite+place+in+Scotland+viewed+from+the+way+up+Conival.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Once down, we made our way back down the road with the intention of spending the night in the infamous Crask Inn. This wasn't to be however as all rooms were booked by several parties of fisherman. However, the dude who owns the Inn (Mike I believe) was quite happy for us to doss in the carpark in our van. A few other folk were camping in the garden and someone was sleeping in the summer house in the garden. So, to the bar.........D ordered a pint which arrived promptly before Mike went off to make me a pot of tea. He got distracted however, by bringing in some logs and lighting the stove, so it was 20minutes later than I gently reminded him that I'd ordered some tea (it had to be gentle, didn't have the heart to be cross as he was so quirky and charming) Meals were being served at 7.30 and because it was busy, we were asked to share a table with another couple. Rats! Not sure I could be bothered being sociable but it was actually really nice. The couple were really into triathalon and hill running and had cycled from Inverness and gone up Klibreck. The girl had had a few drinks and the conversation, mostly about hill running and gear, was quite animated. The food was amazing! A home made quiche from eggs from their own hens and the veg was fresh from their garden, simple but quite lovely. And the lemon cake for afters was divine! Next morning and I was eager for another cooked breakfast! And for £6, I had bacon, sausage, mushroom and toast (with home made marmalade) and 4 cups of tea. I could have also had porridge, a half grapefruit and an orange juice included but grapefruit and porridge are evil.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6uVlodFuu-JyCMbGEulpFXz-bh0P9JAQie9S3K_4wIvkxMB3wmhobOMswl96nLDdFg56GAFKB55pOyNO9kPyPuBVE-pQfds120thgMVxlLeAcCJqsrltvn_rbRe0AY5zHq8xa4AEbn6g/s1600/Breabag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6uVlodFuu-JyCMbGEulpFXz-bh0P9JAQie9S3K_4wIvkxMB3wmhobOMswl96nLDdFg56GAFKB55pOyNO9kPyPuBVE-pQfds120thgMVxlLeAcCJqsrltvn_rbRe0AY5zHq8xa4AEbn6g/s320/Breabag.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>D and I had a leisurely morning and were setting off up Klibreck around 10 ish. We went along Strath a Chraisg, cut off path and though some really marshy ground, following the Alt Domhain for a short while, before cutting off up the hillside to spot height 528 which was marked by a cairn built by Mike from the Crask. The plan was to head up the spur to Carn an Fheidh, pick up a fence line and then countour round spot height 808 before joining A'Chioch and the spur up to Klibreck summit. Well, D gave his usual grunt or monosyllable acknowledgment of what I was saying, though in retrospect I think he was off in his own world and hadn't taken in a thing I'd said. As it was, I picked up the fence line quite easily but D wandered off on his own, so I left him to it. And though he is much faster than me going up hill as he's so much fitter and stronger legged, I still managed to get ahead of him as he ploughed right up point 808 rather than go round. I was worried that D would stop and wait on top of 808, thinking that I was still lagging behind him as we were out of view of each other as soon as D wandered off but I decided to keep pushing on regardless and he finally caught up with me on the final pull up to the summit.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM62qmoXEsPjXV5T5Oit39Kp4zxBeqrc7G16piGCZ6gjAohyeZmXNLnurgJoGiTg2S4TP6A5dSxrI2NIbcIfbV2oUps-BAiTUudSo6fIAD-0U6wWn9ZFFJPzMGTpKh_s-Ef1uCr3f1pSI/s1600/Looking+back+along+the+South+Ridge+of+Ben+More+Assynt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM62qmoXEsPjXV5T5Oit39Kp4zxBeqrc7G16piGCZ6gjAohyeZmXNLnurgJoGiTg2S4TP6A5dSxrI2NIbcIfbV2oUps-BAiTUudSo6fIAD-0U6wWn9ZFFJPzMGTpKh_s-Ef1uCr3f1pSI/s320/Looking+back+along+the+South+Ridge+of+Ben+More+Assynt.jpg" width="242" /></a></div>We got our view from the top which was gorgeous! You could see South for miles and miles and miles and the large forms of Ben Hope and Ben Loyal to the North, towering up out of a flat landscape, with Orkney visible in the far distance. We descended the south spur (taking in an impromptu dip into a rock pool. Well, D stripped and dipped, I half stripped, tested the water and started hyperventilating from the cold of it and hastily retreated!) This took us down to a track above the Loch a Bhealaich. It was really pretty down there (apart from holes in the grassy ground with water running underneath which were really spooky as they were hard to spot and I was convinced it was ankle breaking time, so slowed right down.) I was left wondering if there was any winter climbing on the Creag an Lochain cliffs on the east side of Klibreck. The walk along the track under the cliffs of Creag na h-lolaire up to the Bealach Easach gave a gorgeous view back along the Loch a Bhealaich and then all that was left was the 5/6km slog back to the Crask where I discovered that they also had J20 juice, which seemed a bit out of place but refreshing all the same.<br />
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That evening, I drove the van back down the road to Lairg and then cut across country on the most hellish single track road ever to the Ledmore junction and up to Assynt. I hate single track roads but I'll never complain about the length of the ones in Glen Lyon or Glen Lochay again! This road seemed to go forever and ever and made me feel queasy even driving it! However, things looked up when you could see the extremely strange form of Suilven rearing it's head up in the distance, not long followed by views of Cul Beg, Cul Mor and Ben More Coigach. Coigach, my favourite area in the whole of Scotland and to my shame I've stopped off and looked longingly at the hills there when off climbing at Reiff or passing by in winter to climb on Quinaig but I've never yet been up either of these hills. My big all time dream winter route is to climb the Fhidhleir nose, but that's not happening anytime soon if ever! I might have to console myself with one of the easier routes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75CR5e5VFb3DENSLgGooBipong0LTMA7QcAw_l4TgmT9T8jbCqAsfUQVkac0QbqhQ_IFU_tDH7UCJ2N7RzWjne83qDYQL1e-SE9jhwwudTkky4tlXdUBEEROSZy8p-5X9iiPy9Ws1J5k/s1600/Loch+Assynt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75CR5e5VFb3DENSLgGooBipong0LTMA7QcAw_l4TgmT9T8jbCqAsfUQVkac0QbqhQ_IFU_tDH7UCJ2N7RzWjne83qDYQL1e-SE9jhwwudTkky4tlXdUBEEROSZy8p-5X9iiPy9Ws1J5k/s320/Loch+Assynt.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>We parked up in a wee carpark not far south of Inchnadamph and again had a wee lie in, starting out for Conival and Ben More Assynt around 10 ish. My wee leggies were finding it hard going that morning! D was off in a shot and I insisted he keep on ahead rather than tail gaiting me. The track from Inchnadamph up Gleann Dubh seemed to take forever and I didn't really enjoy it until we started going uphill to the col between Conival and Beinn an Fhurain. The ground was rocky and peaty rather than heathery and the going was much easier than the previous few days and my early morning sluggishness and heavy leggedness seemed to have worn off. Before long we were up at the col and faced by a steep pull up to the top of Conival where I once again slowed down a fair bit. The weather was amazing, sports bra and thin trousers on and my hill running shoes was all that was needed. Getting really in to wearing my trail shoes on the hill for hill walking as they are so much comfier and give the option for running wee bits too if I want to. I'd worn my new summer hill boots on Saturday going up the Crianlarich hills, carrying my trainers in my bag and switching to them for the downhill as they were hurting my feet. On Ben Hope I'd worn a new pair of stiff B3 Kayland boots to see how they felt. They were amazing! On sale in Tiso and I think they were supposed to be £99 but there was only a £75 sign up that I could see so that's what I got them for, double bargain! The comfiest winter boots I've ever worn and definitely a keeper. Going to sell my Nepale Extreme's which are a modern form of torture!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9HPL4jJfGdLRo9peXVeAuddTL_WpSpX_-6_dE0hn02mj9g4UnP4z8-5X6TLefc9vppcwomukOZyajC6CtPDZbUtA6SnUiCuwVr3trRSUPo1C3i6nqFnVoCw30iDRg7BTGTvS_AgI_dgA/s1600/Ben+More+Assynt+and+Conival+from+the+south+top+of+BMA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9HPL4jJfGdLRo9peXVeAuddTL_WpSpX_-6_dE0hn02mj9g4UnP4z8-5X6TLefc9vppcwomukOZyajC6CtPDZbUtA6SnUiCuwVr3trRSUPo1C3i6nqFnVoCw30iDRg7BTGTvS_AgI_dgA/s320/Ben+More+Assynt+and+Conival+from+the+south+top+of+BMA.jpg" width="320" /></a>The connecting ridge between Conival and Ben More Assynt is really short and it didn't take us long to get across to our 2nd munro of the day. The views are superb up there! North to Foinaven, east to Ben Hope, Loyal and Klibreck and Southwards down to Coigach across the Corbett Braebag, which according to SMC Northern Highlands has a few routes on it. As do the cliffs on Beinn an Fhurain. The munro guide had mentioned something about the south ridge along to the south top of Ben More Assynt being somewhat like the Aonach Eagach. D said that was rubbish and it was nothing like the Aonach Eagach, but my curiosity was piqued. D couldn't be bothered going across as he'd been before so I dumped my sack and poles and set off down the hill at a run. And I didn't stop running until one tiny section at the very end where I went over a wee rocky bit rather than round it and had to use my hands. The Aonach Eagach it certainly isn't! But it does look a little like it from a distance. I gave D a wave from the South Top and set off at a run again, though it was more run/walk/run on the way back, being mostly up hill. I was boiling by the time I got back and needed a moment for a drink and recuperation.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeZrwn_DYOQ7pl8km1MDD0H_H67hhFcX-Xwj9xKKUwY5pFqaCoGXOqPQ-VMewpmHCQUbI18qhwgVJorAa3zCudqyL_1D1tQk3Cb2kPw24Ju4C8wM8H9LK8mZqiKHqSZVfghWD2ck0Jgg/s1600/Gleann+Dubh+could+almost+be+in+the+Pyrenees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeZrwn_DYOQ7pl8km1MDD0H_H67hhFcX-Xwj9xKKUwY5pFqaCoGXOqPQ-VMewpmHCQUbI18qhwgVJorAa3zCudqyL_1D1tQk3Cb2kPw24Ju4C8wM8H9LK8mZqiKHqSZVfghWD2ck0Jgg/s320/Gleann+Dubh+could+almost+be+in+the+Pyrenees.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwg-gvQ5Px5_wwkQp1368ns8xryRHzooO7j1G8LoLtctcLvDlF1je5tqs-kic7aj5BLogI3O2nXgJlCjsSB0pETw0T8DX-A_meY-CFjDfK41xGzfuvtkzx2OV-MrvTJ3cnDTrSEBvMiyE/s1600/Coming+out+the+mist+on+Ben+Hope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwg-gvQ5Px5_wwkQp1368ns8xryRHzooO7j1G8LoLtctcLvDlF1je5tqs-kic7aj5BLogI3O2nXgJlCjsSB0pETw0T8DX-A_meY-CFjDfK41xGzfuvtkzx2OV-MrvTJ3cnDTrSEBvMiyE/s320/Coming+out+the+mist+on+Ben+Hope.jpg" width="240" /></a>Downhill seemed to take no time at all and D gave me the keys for the van as I had set off at my usual fast downhill pace, a bit between a walk and run. My mobile phone went off part way down and I stopped to answer it thinking it might have been RB who was away attending a school trip to visit lots of different Universities. However, it was some woman called Sharon who keeps ringing my number looking for someone called Lucy! I told her she had the wrong number and this was a brand new mobile phone and nobody called Lucy had ever had this phone. She still phoned back 5mins later and left a message on voicemail! The bottom section of Conival before you hit Gleann Dubh again is seriously peaty and spongy and bouncy and I couldn't resist fleeing down this section with my brakes off, so much fun! Though the rucksack on my back was really annoying! I waited at the bottom and let D catch up and we walked along the Glen together for someway, chatting about how Alpine it felt with all the greenery, wild flowers and sunshine. I couldn't resist setting off at a run again though and managed to run all the way back to the van with just a couple of stops to walk briefly. I then collapsed in a sweaty heap with chaffed shoulders from the rucksack rubbing and covered in itchy kleg bites!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3yDqDFe6ltWpmQ6QnXdk8ztEOvia1lewtywdPBfmVEYWgGGDcYUfuOmPjixCTKZYsaD79kWwEsq6fjDj53ii0oC4kXMI9WW-8wyVo2u04kSK0mOg_vkVpEX974GGw33ZI1ExAGA9sezo/s1600/D+on+North+Ridge+of+Ben+Hope.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3yDqDFe6ltWpmQ6QnXdk8ztEOvia1lewtywdPBfmVEYWgGGDcYUfuOmPjixCTKZYsaD79kWwEsq6fjDj53ii0oC4kXMI9WW-8wyVo2u04kSK0mOg_vkVpEX974GGw33ZI1ExAGA9sezo/s320/D+on+North+Ridge+of+Ben+Hope.jpg" width="254" /></a><br />
We drove down to Ullapool that evening to the aforementioned campsite as we both fancied a shower. £16 fecking pounds for a night in a campsite, disgusting! I grumbled but D said we should just go in. We went out for curry then came back and went for a shower. D had money on him but I didn't. So D got his shower and I didn't! And I refused to pay extra for a shower anyway when the campsite was charging such an extortionate ammount! I was so disgusted that I told D that I wanted to leave and it turned out that we'd both run out of money anyway so wouldn't have been able to pay for our pitch, oooops! So we didn't really do runner as we hadn't stayed there a night, and D had only half used their poxy facilities. So we buggered off and parked up at the side of the road nearby the Braemore Junction where neither of us got a great nights sleep.<br />
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Last day of the trip and I wanted to blast up A'Bhuidheanach Bheag from the Drumochter Pass. I'd been up here several years ago to do this munro and it's next door neighbour, but after doing Carn a Caim had taken a bearing to Bheag, but come across a path and started following that instead. Realising it wasn't really going where I thought it would I then re went on to my bearing, stupidly not taking a new bearing! Got a bit disorientated, took a back bearing to the path, followed it back to my original point and then got an attack of doubt in my navigating ability and bailed off the hill.<br />
Today's trip up there was interesting and similar navigational stupidities ensued! I'm thinking about doing some navigation re-practise after our Alps trip as I've rarely had to use my skills of late and I'm getting a bit rusty and forgetfull!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8PYInIk5zZfJD8pWYe9-o95CdN2mMwpuvfhbYCmYeobFPE9Eemvha_d4VUYsAMnYFYJYpnYSDz_0sQ4pRis33dAhiaviZ-33Nidc6GwWsuc7RHEjO5M8aAft9GFahzzuLztBwvWnLS-E/s1600/Fecking+cows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8PYInIk5zZfJD8pWYe9-o95CdN2mMwpuvfhbYCmYeobFPE9Eemvha_d4VUYsAMnYFYJYpnYSDz_0sQ4pRis33dAhiaviZ-33Nidc6GwWsuc7RHEjO5M8aAft9GFahzzuLztBwvWnLS-E/s320/Fecking+cows.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>So, we hadn't really planned on being over Drumochter way on our road trip hence we had no map. However, the sky was clear and there was no low cloud forecast and it was looking like it would stay that way for some while. D was very hesitant of going up the hill mapless but I was feeling more brash and confident that it would be a doddle and there was probably a path all the way up. Forget Cameron McPish's munro book suggestion of ploughing up heather slopes as it's bog ridden below and a steep, heather slog above! I could see a track going up the spur above the North Drumochter Lodge so the plan was to scoot up there, once on the 'top' go SE to the top at point 936 and the directly east to the summit. I screwed it up completely by changing plan. Once through the fence across from Balsporran, I came across a track heading up so decided to follow it (never ever get lured off bearing by these stupid tracks which head off to nowhere!) It didn't take me long to realise that this track was heading off up Creagan Doire Dhonaich and whilst I could have gone this way it was pretty circuitous and silly to go that way, so I dropped down to the Alt Coire Dhubaig where I got wet feet and ploughed straight up the middle spur between the Alt Coire Chuirn and the Alt Coire Dhubaig. This added a pointless half an hour off faffing onto the journey and I could see my original track going up the spur to the left, mocking my stupidity! However, this heather bashing was a good leg training exercise and I pushed up this hill in hill runner stylee bent over and using my hands to push down on my legs. Easy at first, but a steepening at the top left me pushing on for 60 paces and stopping for 10secs for a breather and so on. By the time I was nearing the top, my quads were protesting and were close to being painful from the exertion but I'm a master at ignoring these little niggles! Finally the top and I could see that there was no path anywhere to speak of that I could see and that the terrain was really featureless and that the tops I was aiming for were in reality nothing more than featureless humps. Still, I managed to run my way, leaping across peat hags to the summit where I stopped for a quick bite to eat. I went to phone D but realised I'd forgotten my phone, went to take some pictures and realised I'd forgotten my camera!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Vn6JUFw-T-V_yCAeAlRteamxIx8eQTe-77SS-QaBgefaUD5X5LJcMRqUpYjMn_QoMCcmEnq5En7CIpQobUM-FYfeSLwpM2Yyn0lZLqqE-pBaEZ0Zc40qpqyrLsVjIxDFXt7MKihHq94/s1600/Me+walking+the+last+bit+of+my+steep+run+along+the+South+Ridge+of+BMA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Vn6JUFw-T-V_yCAeAlRteamxIx8eQTe-77SS-QaBgefaUD5X5LJcMRqUpYjMn_QoMCcmEnq5En7CIpQobUM-FYfeSLwpM2Yyn0lZLqqE-pBaEZ0Zc40qpqyrLsVjIxDFXt7MKihHq94/s320/Me+walking+the+last+bit+of+my+steep+run+along+the+South+Ridge+of+BMA.jpg" width="320" /></a>Shot back off down the hill the way I'd come, initially following some fence posts, then felt a bit unsure of the landscape so got my compass out. This is when things went a bit pearshaped and I made stupid blunder. I set the compass to a setting SE and ran off on my merry way. I'd gone downhill gently for a short while and reached a peat hag ridden area which seemed familiar, but then hit a total and utter peat hag and thought, 'hmmmm, this area doesn't feel or seem right at all!' I could see a small top further on, so zoomed off up there, only to be met by a view down some glen which certainly wasn't the A9, arse! I was totally confused as to where the feck I was and realised the only sensible thing to do was to retrace my steps back to the summit. D had lent me his GPS with the summit coordinates in it, but other than that I didn't really know how to use it. Anyway, I could see the trig point off in the distance, but felt hesitant that this was actually the top I'd come from so the GPS had it's use! (though I do feel that D relies on it far too much. He'd got it out on the summit of Cruach Ardrain back in Crianlarich as he didn't believe he was on the summit. However, I could see, even in the mist that we were at the highest point and in glimpses between the mist could see the path to our col below. As D got out the GPS I set off down to the col in disgust.) But yes, the GPS has it's place.<br />
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It was on my trot back to the summit that I knew where I'd gone wrong. What an utter, utter idiot! It was a SE bearing that was going to take me from the spur that I'd gone up, to the summit and I'd forgotten to reverse that process for the way back. Numpty! So I'd wasted another half an hour jogging off in completely the wrong direction and then having to nip back to the summit. Correct bearing of NW taken I scooted off in the correct direction, feeling a little miffed at myself for such a stupid mistake and unsure of how long I'd actually been faffing for and getting concerned that I'd maybe been ages and that D would be back at the van worrying. As it was, if I discount all the time I spent faffing on the hill, then it took me just over 2hrs to run up and down which I thought was not bad for nearly 10k and 500m of steep ascent. Not breaking any records, but pretty good for my crappy standards!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I happily found myself back on track and zoomed off down the track I'd originally planned to go up! This was ace fun! A bit stoney at the top which made me too nervous to let off the brakes but a middle section of peaty ground had the brakes almost off (too steep to take them completely off) and I was careening off down the hill. Got to another stony section and found it difficult to actually slow down as I'd gathered so much momentum! But I finally slowed a little which was just as well as there was a boggy section coming up and my shoes weren't up to it. I slowed through the bog and down onto the track, running past the Drumochter Lodge and onto the A9 and back to Balsporran.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-52494260367846908802011-07-06T15:03:00.000-07:002011-07-06T15:03:20.458-07:00KINLOCHLEVEN RUNNING - 30th May to 1st JulyNothing exciting to report on the climbing front. Not sure where my climbing is going at the moment. Marriage, Uni work and Bekah's comps seem to have obliterated my time to get out climbing and as I can't get out regularly, my confidence turnes sharply downhill! I guess I've made a bit of a compromise with D, as long as I can get out winter climbing LOTS then I'm happy enough sacrificing summer climbing time so that I actually have time to spend with D. And having a 3 week trip to the Alps for some snowy mountains feels like a pretty damn good compromise actually!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRh6-5B83c9W1yagH044afiosbxm6SNccob8eQ7HFR_pPb-99b-4PuPmVJH_ABsmkuOp9MUPeLq5o8UUk3m_kqNj6X8YBoZssSF-wF4qV4hMHf1iOfuoiaGjC6RKTPat5JD6Vkt8Qwq_Q/s1600/Mam+na+Gualainn+and+the+Pap+of+Glencoe+from+WHW.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRh6-5B83c9W1yagH044afiosbxm6SNccob8eQ7HFR_pPb-99b-4PuPmVJH_ABsmkuOp9MUPeLq5o8UUk3m_kqNj6X8YBoZssSF-wF4qV4hMHf1iOfuoiaGjC6RKTPat5JD6Vkt8Qwq_Q/s320/Mam+na+Gualainn+and+the+Pap+of+Glencoe+from+WHW.jpg" width="320" /></a>That said, I did actually make an attempt of sorts to get out climbing whilst I was living up in Kinlochleven during my clinical placement. I met up with Isi who works at the Ice Factor and we did actually drive to Polldubh, when the heavens opened and it rained, and it rained and it rained. In fact, I barely stopped raining the whole 5weeks I was living up there! But when it's nice, boy is it nice! I had a day back in Dundee once my placement was over and it felt like such a dirty, grey and dreary place to be. Even Brechin feels too towny now! I'm craving countryside and hills like crazy! This Alps trip can't come soon enough and I know I shouldn't wish my life away, but I'm eager for the 3 years of Uni to pass so I can qualify, get working and move somewhere decent with nearby mountains.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglC4Gx8cKDo-2vrejycLZk-AbXLZV-Bsw9Q-Zxk8K8RNR5P-i5l4mDfzKrKU_01j-LBvQvqByEVbEbK4QPFhNg25_gWmdFmyEl4ggsyxulLh64KwNkRHiUZk5tf5_IKxXwhY70nwGhv4M/s1600/Looking+across+Rannoch+Moor+to+the+Orchy+hills.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglC4Gx8cKDo-2vrejycLZk-AbXLZV-Bsw9Q-Zxk8K8RNR5P-i5l4mDfzKrKU_01j-LBvQvqByEVbEbK4QPFhNg25_gWmdFmyEl4ggsyxulLh64KwNkRHiUZk5tf5_IKxXwhY70nwGhv4M/s320/Looking+across+Rannoch+Moor+to+the+Orchy+hills.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3-lQpP3Y-_axLgchC8E_SFO9gNpHVgZutZmiJBtf6VQ93kmOJ8dOBn6ozJg-NGt627iGRuE7Rwmrm7GF8J03SFRImEr1ixb3GA0u1V3u4u4Lv7837-5bp5aR8kW8_7aadvC-UFG6KUF8/s1600/Ballachulish+run.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3-lQpP3Y-_axLgchC8E_SFO9gNpHVgZutZmiJBtf6VQ93kmOJ8dOBn6ozJg-NGt627iGRuE7Rwmrm7GF8J03SFRImEr1ixb3GA0u1V3u4u4Lv7837-5bp5aR8kW8_7aadvC-UFG6KUF8/s320/Ballachulish+run.jpg" width="320" /></a>Back to Kinlochleven........So, I didn't do much climbing, but I did get out running into the hills 6x whilst I was there. And it's tough! There's no running whatsoever in Kinloch which doesn't involve any steep hills. My first run took me up the West Highland Way towards Fort William and it was far too steep for me to run the start of and involved run/walk/run until the incline eased off to undulating and I was able to run much longer stints. My next run involved running up to the Mamore Lodge, where I was going to run along towards Loch Eilde Mor but descend back to Kinloch before I got there. Jamie, manager of The Ice Factor <a href="http://icefactor.blogspot.com/">http://icefactor.blogspot.com/</a> (who was putting me up (or putting up with me as D would say!)) was arriving back home that evening and I wanted to be down off the hill and back to the Ice Factor for his keys incase the place was shut before he got home. As it was I got a text from him mid run to say he'd got the key and was home. So I decided to keep running. Right along to Loch Eilde Mor, around the dam and through the boggiest countour ever around Leitir Bo Fionn where I worried about losing my shoe on several occasions! A steep descent followed down to some woodland to the East of Kinloch where the recent storms had blown several trees down over the path. A bit of an assault course ensued to get back to Jamie's. It was amazing though! One of those runs where you feel good and the running feels easy and your mind just drifts off, lovely!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginE9ALvz73ZR-WGCIX7elwfBx_cwFYi9ueFO8-DUoolys3E3QmJoe_PI-4Q1ReH7fFUbVelIyJXaQBQOU-ciugXvxWxTIHPRbDQtxzEYx9DjNMPjyo93s3Asq06Y5hICFnNKxplnARFM/s1600/Bekah+on+the+1st+boulder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginE9ALvz73ZR-WGCIX7elwfBx_cwFYi9ueFO8-DUoolys3E3QmJoe_PI-4Q1ReH7fFUbVelIyJXaQBQOU-ciugXvxWxTIHPRbDQtxzEYx9DjNMPjyo93s3Asq06Y5hICFnNKxplnARFM/s320/Bekah+on+the+1st+boulder.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>I had a run down the Lairig Eilde next, which lies between the wee Buachaille and Beinne Fhada. This run was hellish! Going up the Lairig to the pass was fine enough and zooming down into Glen Etive was fun. But the run back up to the pass was probably the steepest thing I've ever attempted to run and involved bouts of 30 second running, followed by stopping, slumped over for 10seconds (I refused to allow myself any longer) then walking for a minute. I carried on in this manner all the way back up to the pass, very systematically which is the only way I can cope with steep ascents. If I try to walk the steep bits and run the easier bits, I think I'd just end up walking the whole lot! I was getting serious hunger pangs on the way back down and felt pretty weak and shaky at one point. Felt good to get back to the car!<br />
My 4th run had me going back along the West Highland Way along to an old ruin known as Tigh na Sleubhaich. There was a couple of guys camping in the ruin, blethering with an old dude in a landrover. So I didn't go right up to the building and just turned about. The old guy caught up with me and stopped to chat, telling me that the guys were trying to light a fire, unsuccessfully due to the wood being too damp and due to it being Rowan wood which doesn't burn so well when fresh. He then went on to say that his Grandmother used to live in the old ruin and we then went on to discuss the harsh winters we've been having. This was quite a nice run, felt easy apart from the hard start.<br />
For my final two runs I went out with a friend from Kinlochleven. Pete <a href="http://www.petestack.com/blog/">http://www.petestack.com/blog/ </a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXZ0qP7Oi6waw2Erz9SPai2XGBvl-vQOLRpZq5BNINQP3BghOUF1wkiiKNQVFxRze8v5HBfIZiHB6_MrUdsNj2nUTHVjZuxdsuSpRMU9afvECV2NEnCrZSP9LuzkEu8_w2VbxTBPD4a8/s1600/RB+on+the+1st+route.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXZ0qP7Oi6waw2Erz9SPai2XGBvl-vQOLRpZq5BNINQP3BghOUF1wkiiKNQVFxRze8v5HBfIZiHB6_MrUdsNj2nUTHVjZuxdsuSpRMU9afvECV2NEnCrZSP9LuzkEu8_w2VbxTBPD4a8/s320/RB+on+the+1st+route.jpg" width="193" /></a>had recently run the West Highland Way race, a 96mile race in just over 20 hours. Mental! So he was more than happy to do a few wee runs with me at my pace for his recovery runs (though I'm sure he'd still have gone faster for his recovery without me slowing him down.) Our first outing was along the track at the back of the Kingshouse in Glencoe, along past the Black Corries Logde and to the mast below Meall a Phuill. This was more suited to me than the steep things I'd been attempting and I wasn't having to stop and walk as much as usual, just a few times and never for long. The heat was boiling that day and I had my thicker running tights and fleece on and that made it a bit of a struggle! <br />
The final run was into the forest at Gleann a Chaolais and this was amazing! Just a wee start along the side of the road and then up into foresty track. I still had to stop a few times, but I wasn't timing as I was too busy blethering with Pete. Before long we hit the turn in the track, flat from there for a while as the track contoured around under Beinn a Bheithir, then downhill which was so much fun! The track was really soft and spongy and it was steep enough to get some speed up and smooth enough to cut loose, I even got my speed up to just over 5 minutes a mile at one point, though that pushing things for me and didn't last long especially as a wee uphill section loomed up ahead! The view out to Glencoe and down Loch Leven was simply stunning and it's one of the nicest runs I've been out on.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2M49h7D0TwEXpfdaX9mt_WbsIWJ9lIjd4caeVyEKOQYEAsFvN9f9q3GhjVDSybifz19YR4VRN0y5Kyg-90TLBsRHzk4BSTRYfHU5tUv0ofDU6ryTXyT_t3Msx9dSd9xCN9EBBbNLy8ZI/s1600/RB+cruising+the+1st+crux+of+the+final+route.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2M49h7D0TwEXpfdaX9mt_WbsIWJ9lIjd4caeVyEKOQYEAsFvN9f9q3GhjVDSybifz19YR4VRN0y5Kyg-90TLBsRHzk4BSTRYfHU5tUv0ofDU6ryTXyT_t3Msx9dSd9xCN9EBBbNLy8ZI/s320/RB+cruising+the+1st+crux+of+the+final+route.jpg" width="237" /></a></div>So that was that. 5 weeks working at the Belford, surrounded by mountains galore but no climbing whatsover! I did have a couple of sessions at the Ice Factor wall, but I found the grading there pretty desperate and the holds a bit dire and smooth for my taste.<br />
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Bekah had the finals of the Youth Climbing Series down in Wolverhampton on the 25th June which she really enjoyed. She's not been training as much as she was last year and that reflected in her result, 7th place out of 32 I think. She was beaten by girls that she was beating last year, so I think it's made her realise that if she wants results then she has to put the work in. The routes at the comp were really tough, but they were set really well, with several cruxes which worked to seperate them all. The boulders were tough too, with nobody topping the final boulder problem which was utterly desperate! As much as I enjoy taking RB round her comps, as I know how much she enjoys them, it's so much more fun getting out climbing!<br />
Monday is our normal training day and it was blazing during the day, so much so that I just couldn't face going indoors to the wall. Last summer saw us spending far too much time indoors climbing for the comps, but I'm sure that Beks can train just as well with days climbing outside too. And I'm missing proper climbing, indoors is so sterile that it just gets boring after a while.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS81msGWKtSSPU6gDIfrjVAK3V-VxP1qBdFJBd8WeqXFhTKs0gles754rughA5MkKs04rLFODRMZZkqb6iLRtqMl1t2a64gH_WI2rKcU2s8x8AbMIRaECTIcE2AdPEoxcKAiyAhrpOnxo/s1600/Ali+climbing+the+6a%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS81msGWKtSSPU6gDIfrjVAK3V-VxP1qBdFJBd8WeqXFhTKs0gles754rughA5MkKs04rLFODRMZZkqb6iLRtqMl1t2a64gH_WI2rKcU2s8x8AbMIRaECTIcE2AdPEoxcKAiyAhrpOnxo/s320/Ali+climbing+the+6a%252B.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><br />
I did think about taking RB to Rob's Reed, but seen as she's only been out once this summer and I've only been out a few times, I thought we'd just stick to where we know and keep Rob's for another day. So Kirrie it was. I was really nervous at the prospect of climbing again and just warmed up on a 3+ (which is so dirty I don't know why I bothered!) and a 4 that I always seem to find tricky as I can't find this crucial intermediate hold for me to reach the big hold above. No problems this time though and the thought of spending the rest of the evening leading all the same old easy stuff that I've done a billion times before wasn't inspiring me. Time for a challenge! I got the clipstick out and clipped the first 2 clips of Fat of The Land at 6b. Ignoring holds off to the right and using holds in line with the clips seemed the right thing to do at the grade and it took me several goes off a wee crimp to get the other crimp by the 2nd clip. Some fancy footwork was needed to get me to a juggy rail above but I couldn't seem to commit to doing it. I think it was the thought of then being above the clip and not knowing what would come above. I came down and got Jon to lead it so I could do the whole thing on toprope. Still took me several goes to the get the crux but I managed the rest in one go. Lovely route, nice layback moves, up to thinner moves above and a funky finish. I was buzzing after that, so nice to find a route where the climbing is involving, something I've not felt for a long time! I'm sure I can lead this route cleanly after a couple more goes.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-abv3ucKpnECeOms3zpbV7pVjgK-20erC4TKxZi6wFVai9uWSOnh8j7j6-r60GOwRobcA1JfeTHyHBLELYsQgkVcScptbeg-2mIZKloRIujsQdSe_FY6cwpnL-K15eVvOn6yWsDajtg4/s1600/Jon++Bekah+and+Ali.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-abv3ucKpnECeOms3zpbV7pVjgK-20erC4TKxZi6wFVai9uWSOnh8j7j6-r60GOwRobcA1JfeTHyHBLELYsQgkVcScptbeg-2mIZKloRIujsQdSe_FY6cwpnL-K15eVvOn6yWsDajtg4/s320/Jon++Bekah+and+Ali.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Bekah was climbing with Ali and between them they did, The Hill Has Eyes (5), Hillbillies (3+), Spent (6a), La Plage (4), The Twa Dogs (6c), Wisdom's Door (6b+), Hanging by a Thrum Hold (6b) and Fat of the Land (6b)Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-67812884076695478872011-05-22T06:26:00.000-07:002011-05-22T06:50:14.854-07:00Logie Head - 21st May<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigagFiQwfXpiI5pky7ascBwsz2XxQYy4xiiKUTra74rpRFRMlSErOTy5g0tU8YNDzB8_7nOIsvWfndaMLglL0X1XA0m0tJYb0I8l0Ol8k4NF8LlGmFxEgM4I4AzKN18SzM3rAXxkkQZHM/s1600/Busy+day+at+Logie+head.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigagFiQwfXpiI5pky7ascBwsz2XxQYy4xiiKUTra74rpRFRMlSErOTy5g0tU8YNDzB8_7nOIsvWfndaMLglL0X1XA0m0tJYb0I8l0Ol8k4NF8LlGmFxEgM4I4AzKN18SzM3rAXxkkQZHM/s320/Busy+day+at+Logie+head.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>At last, these hands of mine touch rock and place gear......yes, I was finally out climbing that didn't involve sandy quarries and bolts. I've been feeling decidedly glum and down in the dumps over the last week, sitting at home in the rain, bored out my brains, no Uni work to do, waiting for placement time. I have been out running, bouldering, indoor climbing, had folk round to wet the new bouldering wall in our garage, been to the cinema, but nothing could quench a growing restlessness and disatisfaction. So I decided to sod the hillwalking or running in the rain, I'm feeling pretty fit at the moment for the Alps and the training will continue, but today I want to climb. Fortunately the Morray Coast was forecast to be dry and after a little persuasion, Jonathon was keen to come out and climb.<br />
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We arrived around 11 ish and wasted no time gearing up as the crag was really busy, with 3 or 4 teams already there, another team behind us and more people arriving throughout the day. I knew it was going to be busy due to it having a dry forecast, but I've never seen it so busy before! We had to park our rope at the bottom of the cliff on a couple of occasions to get the routes we wanted. One group had a bbque going and another group had a little birthday soiree complete with party hats and CAKE! I had a dry quorn sandwhich and a few cereal bars and the smells of barbequed meat and the look of cake had me rather jealous.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKe4cG20iervSeQ7-Ujhx0iCwzovaX1b8PvoSG1rS7-bn8CSgTVAF39QBirDUWLrZgk4CM6RzT9h1S0M-d76ZI6rsPCojgl4Ts15yN0eFYDez8yf-J1eVqZXsTv-yKhNhSuF23JYLAYrs/s1600/Birthday+cake+and+bbque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKe4cG20iervSeQ7-Ujhx0iCwzovaX1b8PvoSG1rS7-bn8CSgTVAF39QBirDUWLrZgk4CM6RzT9h1S0M-d76ZI6rsPCojgl4Ts15yN0eFYDez8yf-J1eVqZXsTv-yKhNhSuF23JYLAYrs/s320/Birthday+cake+and+bbque.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
I just started off on the really easy V.Diff, Sea Link, which seemed a bit silly leading, seen as I'd soloed it last time! First time out trad climbing in ages though and I wanted to see how easy I was finding it to place gear and how scary I was finding things. No problems though as that route is jug city and gear easy to find and place. Arms just a little sore from bouldering the day before however. Jonathon started off on Poacher, VS 4b, finding it a stroll and a little boring he thought. I was curious to see how I'd find it on second as I'd found it really pumpy last summer when leading it and it had taken me a while to figure out how to get off the ground. I've seen several people start up a good bit to the right of the route and then have to move back leftwards, this seems easier to start if you are small, but I've figured a way of doing the correct start which involves a wee sneaky hold in a crack but it's just one move up to a jug and then you don't have to bother with a traverse left again. As it was I found it a little pumpy but not too bad.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ETozihlGz58tmAc-nRMk9qTmD-xJDn0I2-h52xgBYRqzEFlPOI-laRfW20HXpKuDLYlbggoK89lb6h_sQhewVBHywUKwa3PLDDgAuOxszBqkoqOiFYiZWOpHNWq8XUu0c3uOJ2Ei_5Q/s1600/Team+on+On+The+Beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5ETozihlGz58tmAc-nRMk9qTmD-xJDn0I2-h52xgBYRqzEFlPOI-laRfW20HXpKuDLYlbggoK89lb6h_sQhewVBHywUKwa3PLDDgAuOxszBqkoqOiFYiZWOpHNWq8XUu0c3uOJ2Ei_5Q/s320/Team+on+On+The+Beach.jpg" width="237" /></a></div><br />
I was going to do the Severe next to Sea Link but someone was on it, so I went for the HS Fisherman's Tail instead. I really love this route and can't understand why it doesn't get any stars as I think it's properly graded and the climbing is really nice. I recalled this route having a funny move at the start but I just couldn't for the life of me remember it! I was up and down a couple of times, arranged a couple of bits of gear, sorted my feet, then all was good, just one little move with awkward feet and it's jugs and then into a funky wee chimney at the top. Jon couldn't make up his mind whether to do Culinary Delight, VS 5a or Sunnyside Up HVS 5a, but went for the HVS in the end. He cruised it big time, making it seem easy and effortless! I seconded it cleanly but had to leave a couple of bits of gear hanging on the rope at the crux so I could keep on moving, the holds are so small and it's so pumpy! It's just a wee sustained section as you move up and traverse rightwards however, then the holds get more positive and the foot holds larger.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ZLm4J4k1VemQGrBCmK1epM2yt6ewA2p_gRbMW59UgPkMK2fl986HsveFMjCgIIJ__rL2cSR9ylZ9AZvGoReSI1NyksdupYBCFobY_Q8ieF1-ykrrQe0jGgRCDbicSFfJH9fTH4_vcCc/s1600/Jon+having+a+play+on+the+start+of+No+Hands+Crack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ZLm4J4k1VemQGrBCmK1epM2yt6ewA2p_gRbMW59UgPkMK2fl986HsveFMjCgIIJ__rL2cSR9ylZ9AZvGoReSI1NyksdupYBCFobY_Q8ieF1-ykrrQe0jGgRCDbicSFfJH9fTH4_vcCc/s320/Jon+having+a+play+on+the+start+of+No+Hands+Crack.jpg" width="249" /></a></div>I decided to scoot up the other HS, Sea Urchin. This gets HS 4b in the guide, but really does have to be the easiest HS in the country! I don't think it's any harder than Severe really as it's jugs all the way. There is a tiny overlap but there's a massive juggy flake to pull over on and it's really well protected. I regretted climbing this and not jumping on Poacher as once we'd gotten down the rain came on. Jon was eyeing up No Hands Crack, an E1 5b. He thought it looked amazing, but I thought it looked horrible! Smooth, blank wall at the start and up and thin crack, ugh! But he went up to have a look at it, and played around on the first couple of moves, with me worrying at the bottom that he was about to scoot up and solo it in his trainers! He reckoned the start looked easy enough so we hung around for a bit waiting to see if the rain was going to ease off. It was only spittering, but the spitters were getting heavy enought to wet the rock and everyone else, bar one team who were dogging there way up Poacher, were getting ready to leave. The rain got heavier so we decided to sack it, disappointing as Jon was so keen to get on his first E1 and I reckon he'd have cruised it and I was keen to lead Poacher again and see if I found it as pumpy to lead as I had last summer.<br />
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Never mind, Portsoy ice cream shop was calling, the best ice cream and sweety shop EVER! I had a cone and a tea, but managed to refrain from buying cake. I regretted this however, as we were so busy yapping in the car on the way home, that I missed the turn off onto the A947 and ended up almost in Fraserburgh before seeing a sign that said Aberdeen 40miles, and that was after driving for some time already! Some cake would have been nice at that point it time.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ZLm4J4k1VemQGrBCmK1epM2yt6ewA2p_gRbMW59UgPkMK2fl986HsveFMjCgIIJ__rL2cSR9ylZ9AZvGoReSI1NyksdupYBCFobY_Q8ieF1-ykrrQe0jGgRCDbicSFfJH9fTH4_vcCc/s1600/Jon+having+a+play+on+the+start+of+No+Hands+Crack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ZLm4J4k1VemQGrBCmK1epM2yt6ewA2p_gRbMW59UgPkMK2fl986HsveFMjCgIIJ__rL2cSR9ylZ9AZvGoReSI1NyksdupYBCFobY_Q8ieF1-ykrrQe0jGgRCDbicSFfJH9fTH4_vcCc/s320/Jon+having+a+play+on+the+start+of+No+Hands+Crack.jpg" width="249" /></a></div>Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-64665665621688970792011-05-14T12:53:00.000-07:002011-05-14T12:53:58.013-07:00Wind and solitude - 14th May 2011D and I went walking up Glen Lyon in our quest for fitness for the Alps, but ended up having an extremely short day. This is just as well, as I was struggling to stay awake on the drive home via Aberfeldy and Dunkeld, windows open and music on from Dunkeld onwards to try and stay awake. Don't know why I was so tired as our 6am start was no earlier than usual and we only ended up out for 4.5hrs which is an extremely short hill day!<br />
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The intended plan was to get one of my 2 munros I've left to do in Glen Lyon/Lochy area and go up a couple of Corbetts at the same time, making for a medium length day. Cameron MacNeish, in his munro book, mentions Meall Ghaordaidh as being a dull hill. I found it anything but! Going up from Glen Lyon and up Creagan an t-Stuichd is quite steep, but one can gaze at the cliffs and wonder about how pretty they would look in winter (and they do!) and it's quick and pretty direct too.<br />
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Our originall plan was to go up the Corbett Beinn nan Oighreag first, then scoot across to Ghaordaidh and then trudge across to Meall nan Subh, another Corbett, having the option of descending Ghaordaidh if the weather turned (it was forecast for heavy showers later in the afternoon.) In the end, we decided just to go up Ghaordaidh first, then Oighreag, saving Subh for another day. I regretted this as soon as I saw how quickly we were making our ascent and how near by Subh was, but there was no way I felt like going up Oighreagh and then having to back track! In the end in turned out fine as it started chucking it down once we got back to the car, only having showered very lightly on the hill. Ben Lawers saw a very light dusting of snow, but Ghaordaidh was just that bit too low unfortunately and we had to make do with a little brief hail.<br />
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Ghaordaidh is a SSI and is home to the rare parasitic Alpine Bartsia and many other alpine plants. It was a shame our day was so short and the wind so cold (30mph Northerlies, brrrrr, big difference from Glen Shiel the other week!) On descent , D was ahead of me and I shouted that I was about to begin descending down to the col between Ghaordaidh and Oighreag, but he didn't hear my calls. Shrugging my shoulders, I headed off down anyway, catching his attention once half way down. We both took different routes up the west slopes of Oighreag, me stopping several times, hat off, jacket off, sort laces which have snapped again (desperately need new boots, lace eyelets falling apart, holes everywhere!) meeting back up on the SSE ridge and carrying on up to the summit together.<br />
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We could see 2 folk heading up from Lochay way and D mentioned he saw someone stop at the col below and ponder the way ahead up Gheordaidh, but other than that, we saw not a single soul all day. I thought the hill would be busy, but most folk seem to go up it from Lochay side, even though Lyon side is far, far nicer.<br />
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No photos today sadly which is annoying as I might have got some atmospheric shots of all the grey and brooding cloud round about. But Beks has my camera down in London on her school trip at the moment and D left his memory card at home.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-62141055171099766842011-05-05T16:42:00.000-07:002011-05-05T16:42:26.781-07:00Finally, a little time! 5th May 2011I've not been posting of late regardless of my intentions to keep this blog going, due to exams and life in general and really not much on the climbing front to report! Well, I did have a trip to the Costa Blanca area of Spain but my climbing was so awful that I'm almost embarrassed to write about it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxss0jBWYmsQEcw8Hf0v8VBVJmCqLunI8gLBxWxTcTN-g4NoAwVbBY3KP_Yu-qFpGT5_754p6jW8tlpi0sDGq3qMu3K1OMbmQsdl4EV-VzJMPaB1dRBCQN97GjjIzIZuZaIKX8cqbGa-k/s1600/working+out+the+moves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxss0jBWYmsQEcw8Hf0v8VBVJmCqLunI8gLBxWxTcTN-g4NoAwVbBY3KP_Yu-qFpGT5_754p6jW8tlpi0sDGq3qMu3K1OMbmQsdl4EV-VzJMPaB1dRBCQN97GjjIzIZuZaIKX8cqbGa-k/s320/working+out+the+moves.jpg" width="233" /></a>Winter is well and truly over now, I'm enjoying the sunshine we've had recently, but hanging up my axes was particularly hard for me this year, I love winter climbing so much! And onsighting my first grade IV has just given me a taste for more and it's frustrating that I have to wait now. Only 6months before the first snows of next winter though :oD<br />
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So, Spain was dire.........I'd been looking forward to it so much as well, sunny Spannish limestone......yum! Let's see, sunny Spannish limestone was also so polished in the lower grades that it was hideous to climb on, and it was all that horrible slabby climbing with nothing to hold onto other than polished nothingness and trusting your feet on polish. Getting the idea? Of course, I know that Costa Blanca will have areas that arn't so popular and thus less polished but we seemed to go to all the popular areas and I really hated it. RB didn't like it either, much preferring the overhanging stuff that she is used to. I've just heard about all RB's peers in the competition climbing scene having an amazing holiday to Suriana and it wasn't so polished there so I'm led to believe and not as hot either! They had mid 20's where as we had 30's! Too hot!<br />
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We started off at Sella, then Marin, followed by Echo Valley and after a days rest, to Gandia, then back to Sella. Of all these places, I'd say only Gandia was enjoyable. And atleast RB had something steep to play on there. Mel set up a toprope for her on a 6b+ called El Sol, so they could both work on it. RB decided that she liked the direct variation over the crux at 6c+ and almost got it. There is clip over the roof but the rope that RB was attached to kept clipping in to the runner that the other bit of rope was attached to, so the toprope was set to run through a quickdraw to the left of the route, and it made it a nightmare to go over and unclip. She'd have got it cleanly if it wasn't for that. Anyway, she's now keen to try and redpoint some harder stuff at home, but we need to find a venue where she likes the look of something. There's a 6c+ at Kirrie she likes and I'm going to take her to Rob's Reed to see what she thinks of it.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VMHU6fJDwMPnUEG0HahsaYZrEUvrim32bIhlMz8Kzrow5F4D_MtaOSAwzwlk_LMYTXsxDfkWT42lFTqo7siZTbx4gumOE6IBZylYEm1gPz4heTaMon4U3uMolPt5vFB8OEogYlRMGqY/s1600/Dubh+be+Dubh+6a%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VMHU6fJDwMPnUEG0HahsaYZrEUvrim32bIhlMz8Kzrow5F4D_MtaOSAwzwlk_LMYTXsxDfkWT42lFTqo7siZTbx4gumOE6IBZylYEm1gPz4heTaMon4U3uMolPt5vFB8OEogYlRMGqY/s320/Dubh+be+Dubh+6a%252B.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><br />
I didn't lead much at all on our holiday, just couldn't get to grips with the rock at all, and my head was all over the place. Even toproping seemed to be freaking me out for some reason and I kept feeling all dizzy and sick. I've been suffering from pretty rotten sinusitis and I'd like to say that was causing me to feel dizzy and not enjoy the climbing, but I think the simple fact was that I just didn't like it and it messed with my head!<br />
I've been out at Kirrie a couple of times since then though and my head has been much better thankfully so even though I was threatning to give up rock climbing in Spain, I can't see it happening :o) I managed to redpoint a 6a+ that I'd found desperately hard so I'm pleased with that and want to try working on some 6b's. Don't think I'll get out trad climbing much this summer as my weekends are going to involve lots of hills, to get fit for the Alps.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBVx2XrTjHHNOH8oOEfROFsmIMYvU56LXn16bR7hlS6g0ebO3hfb2-DXLYveXiFg7SVn7nkyCk44jEg5EPHU3d_az1x5JsTgf6FgcG_sfhiKlkC3hXTNJC51lVsQV-3M9owS3ligL1pw/s1600/view+North+from+Mullach+Lochan+nan+Gabhar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBVx2XrTjHHNOH8oOEfROFsmIMYvU56LXn16bR7hlS6g0ebO3hfb2-DXLYveXiFg7SVn7nkyCk44jEg5EPHU3d_az1x5JsTgf6FgcG_sfhiKlkC3hXTNJC51lVsQV-3M9owS3ligL1pw/s320/view+North+from+Mullach+Lochan+nan+Gabhar.jpg" width="320" /></a>Speaking of which, D and I had a day in the Cairngorms bagging Ben Avon, which involved a long cycle, followed by an even longer walk, made longer by the fact that we stupidly followed the wrong spur off the mountain and had to back track to get on the right spur! What you get for not paying attention! Last weekend we spent a day up in Glen Shiel doing the South Glen Shiel Ridge, which involves walking over 7 munros and 2 tops. That was an amazing day! The sun was blazing with just enough wind to keep cool in places and I was going really well. We decided to the ridge from West to East rather than the more normal East to West, mainly because D was cycling back to the van and it meant he could cycle down hill at the end of the day rather than uphill.<br />
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Getting on to the first munro was a slog however and I was going slow, my calf muscles were so tight, they were causing my feet to go numb! I've been back running lots again but been lazy with my stretching which I mustn't do due to all the old nerve damage in my legs due to my spine! I always seem to have a problem with my legs on the up hills these days and if it's not my calves, then it's twinges of sciatic type pains in my sacral area or pains in my neck. But as soon as I got to the top, it just all seemed to vanish and I had my first hill day in the longest time that I can remember where I felt completely and utterly pain free. It was amazing! I've forgotten how good it feels to be without pain, my limbs felt so much lighter and I moved so much faster than I have been of late, it was a joy to feel back to my old self and D was struggling to keep up, which he never is on the up hill! Although, it transpires that later that evening he ended up with horrible toothache and an abscess forming. So that stopped us in our tracks for doing any hills the next day as he was feeling pretty rotten so I reckoned we should just head home and I couldn't be bothered going out on my own anyway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvXTK6lGjPkMHWSDherizCCH3JHfMqxP2vbV8R6q0oaThZrIv43w-iab3x8coKRSQC4xZKWGuLsqfAsYSXKHXNeW40UgwO0aJoKEg_dh8gRG_dQDzQEcm-7mPaXCJ23M4FuNEVsXbZ_Js/s1600/Beks+on+the+7a%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvXTK6lGjPkMHWSDherizCCH3JHfMqxP2vbV8R6q0oaThZrIv43w-iab3x8coKRSQC4xZKWGuLsqfAsYSXKHXNeW40UgwO0aJoKEg_dh8gRG_dQDzQEcm-7mPaXCJ23M4FuNEVsXbZ_Js/s320/Beks+on+the+7a%252B.jpg" width="217" /></a>We are hoping to get to Skye soon to try and go for a traverse of the ridge (watch this space) but it won't be a proper, 'pure' traverse as we aren't taking a rope and there's no way in hell I'm climbing things like the TD gap and Naismith's Route on the Am Bastier Tooth without one, so it will be more of a scramble and munro bagging traverse, avoiding Naismith's, TD gap and doing Collie's ledge rather than King's Chimney. D wants to see if he can still manage to solo up and down the In Pin but I'm not fussed about doing it as I've done it before and I don't think I'd like to solo down it and I can't be bothered taking a rope for 30m of mod climbing and one abseil! Unfortunately, at this point in time, the forecast doesn't look like it's going to play ball, and neither is D's tooth abscess! So I may just go off on a jaunt by myself into the Cairngorms if the weather is better. We have another week free during July, if next week is duff.<br />
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Other major plans are our trip to the Alps at the end of July. We're going for 3 weeks again and will be basing ourselves in Italy to tackle some of the Monte Rosa peaks and I also have my eye on Castor and Pollux. Andy has taken us out to teach us crevasse rescue techniques as I am insisting that we use a rope for crossing glaciers and I'm determined to get D used to tying knots and using the rope! Though he's digging his heels in at the moment, but I will get him there, kicking and screaming if need be!<br />
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Other news........RB has completed the 3 rounds of the Youth Climbing Series, coming 1st in the 1st round, 2nd in the 2nd round and 1st in the last round, making 1st place overall. The British Final is at Wolverhampton and is going to be an logistic nightmare! I will be working at my first clinical placement in Fort William and will have to get from there to Wolverhampton on the Friday evening, but I don't finish work until 5.30pm! I'm going to see if I can get a day off and fill in my lost hours during the 5week placement somehow as there's no way RB will compete well, if we don't get down there until 2ish in the morning! The Scottish Finals are also on the 28th May, watch this space.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-69740558648602782922011-03-20T14:15:00.000-07:002011-03-20T15:05:47.881-07:00Stob Coire nan Lochan - 19th March '11<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTIzcsyZoT83yp_iJBv0xGodVj-XCbf5Tfw2sdAdKDam1_n9lz0CSxl-aUzoGXI8D1vCagS2YgF44GHol3fHtv6T3afu8giz8x44GNEzw0A8FmW6O79yGATtgTX4jZ-YN0HxrccWR38hA/s1600/Andy+of+the+top+bit+of+the+Milkyway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTIzcsyZoT83yp_iJBv0xGodVj-XCbf5Tfw2sdAdKDam1_n9lz0CSxl-aUzoGXI8D1vCagS2YgF44GHol3fHtv6T3afu8giz8x44GNEzw0A8FmW6O79yGATtgTX4jZ-YN0HxrccWR38hA/s320/Andy+of+the+top+bit+of+the+Milkyway.jpg" width="320" /></a>I haven't written anything in the blog for ages as I've been so busy with Uni work and taking RB to comps that I'm home after climbing, so tired, then too busy the next day. I thought about ditching the whole thing but I kinda missed the writing and D reckoned I should keep up with it. So, what have I done since I wrote last, um........can I remember now! Andy and I spent a day in Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms where I led the crux pitch of Milkyway and Andy led the 2nd pitch. We then downclimbed the Couloir and Andy led the 1st pitch of Ewan Buttress and I led the 2nd. That was a nice day and good to get out and do something quick and easy as I only had the one day. Even though these routes are tiny, it's worth going in for a day to do a few routes, they're quite nice.<br />
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</a></div>The week after that, D and I went hillwalking in Glen Lochay to bag some munros I hadn't done before. Most of the snow had gone from lower down but there were still soft patches on top. Again, that was just a day trip as I was short on time. I think it was either the day before or the day after that RB had the 1st round of the Youth Climbing Series which took part at the Stirling Wall. She got 1st place for that round, after not managing the hard boulder problem but making a comeback on the final route.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSi0zJSYEP-wwTAAkyr_yk-HOJoBXXRZ6ySlmOzfhuUQSjYjREk6mT-SXQG8eUSTex5GUsoXAXcXNvZSi0sSkVNoQ1yF6wZvXWXc-ScyIihrQVBoMsLNcoRVFCY0OSUec-OIGiC1FapyA/s1600/the+45+degree+wall+frame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSi0zJSYEP-wwTAAkyr_yk-HOJoBXXRZ6ySlmOzfhuUQSjYjREk6mT-SXQG8eUSTex5GUsoXAXcXNvZSi0sSkVNoQ1yF6wZvXWXc-ScyIihrQVBoMsLNcoRVFCY0OSUec-OIGiC1FapyA/s320/the+45+degree+wall+frame.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Last weekend RB had the MCofS's School Climbing Comp final in Glasgow where she got 2nd place, being beaten to the post by Rachel Carr of the British Climbing Team on the final route, which went at 7b. Beks did really well on that route, getting just over half way up, she can't quite onsight 7b yet. We're in the process of building a 30 degree wall and a 45 degree wall in our garage at the moment (courtesy of Ali Robb) so some extra training should see her hopefully onsighting 7b in the near future.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsNRRHQL40l-DpYVGwkuM1_G4pcoOzO1vF3a6ZOHZZlRZ7Y3AEtLI1tgIB1p62yLzxB5CL65_9NTw1TUab7FlJ8-ORrDlc22wD4ZdMvtQH76bYgtpUU2xkpB7nVOKCnR4xdEEjUFpTqk/s1600/wading.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtsNRRHQL40l-DpYVGwkuM1_G4pcoOzO1vF3a6ZOHZZlRZ7Y3AEtLI1tgIB1p62yLzxB5CL65_9NTw1TUab7FlJ8-ORrDlc22wD4ZdMvtQH76bYgtpUU2xkpB7nVOKCnR4xdEEjUFpTqk/s320/wading.jpg" width="320" /></a>The day after the school's comp, H and I drove up to Bridge of Orchy, keen to check out the crag on Meall Buidhe, and have a look at a route called Echo Edge in particular, a ** grade III. We arrived at Achallader carpark in good time and it was looking snowy and was snowing, but not as windy as forecast. After skirting round some boggy ground we made it to the start of the Crannoch woods and cut off up hill to cross the railway line. This is where the going got tough and after ploughing up hill through knee deep to thigh deep snow for an hour and not really getting anywhere fast, we decided to bail. The hill was shrounded in mist and I wasn't sure how steep the ground was beneath the cliffs and the snow felt like it would be dodgy if the ground was steep enough to go. Sod walking up all that way only to have to turn back. Gutting though as I hadn't climbed in ages.<br />
Not to worry though, as yesterday H and I drove up to Glencoe to climb and were successful in me onsighting my 1st IV lead and H climbing her 1st IV route. I'd been wanting to lead a grade IV last winter but it never really happened and then it wasn't seeming to happen this winter either what with one thing and another! I knew with the up coming forecast and time constraints that this was probably going to be my last chance of the season to grab that elusive IV. I had been toying with Fingers Ridge or Opening Break in Coire an t-Sneachda as my 1st IV but the pictures of Raeburn's Route on Central Buttress in Stob Coire nan Lochan had really caught my eye. I'd heard it was a good choice as a first IV lead and that the crux was well protected. And it was probably going to be better suited to me rather than the reachy, udgy style of Cairngorm Granite. My only worry was the amount of snow still around and whether conditions were going to be dodgy getting to the base of the route. Only one way to find out!<br />
I picked H up in Dundee at 5am and we drove up to Glencoe after a garage stop, arriving around 7.30am. The walk in to SCNL was a slog and I really struggled carrying a full 60m rope and half a full winter rack but I wasn't minimising my rack when I was pushing my grade. Thankfully, folk had been up there all week and there was a trail through the knee deep snow into the corrie and the boulder were folk were gearing up. There were 8 people in before us and I was sure someone must be going for our route as it's a classic. But all 8 people were going for the infamous Dorsal Arete, a route that I shall refuse point blank to climb out of principle! H and I dumped a sack at the boulder, donned crampons and harness but bunged the ropes and gear into the other sack and set off up hill. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI2Rvvvaeb9J4kkJPVoWikPODGJus8WEGMtcRHqOKwkYRwHZdbKRrrz_dIDO-v3uypKqQGwbWkSqQhntv6-YT05AAW2UZpo8Woz0GNb3zqDReZS0FbIxqUmq2gGHlIULU7cIScx32Lk7c/s1600/Stob+coire+nan+Lochan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI2Rvvvaeb9J4kkJPVoWikPODGJus8WEGMtcRHqOKwkYRwHZdbKRrrz_dIDO-v3uypKqQGwbWkSqQhntv6-YT05AAW2UZpo8Woz0GNb3zqDReZS0FbIxqUmq2gGHlIULU7cIScx32Lk7c/s320/Stob+coire+nan+Lochan.jpg" width="320" /></a>The snow was deep but it seemed stable enough and I didn't once feel jittery or unsafe even when it got deeper and deeper than deeper still! All trails to Central Buttress had been blown in and snowed over and we were wading through knee deep snow from the word go from the boulder. As we got higher, we were sinking down to our waist and in a few places I was up to my chest in snow. That's the deepest I've ever waded before and it was hard work! The walk up to the routes is short though so it didn't take too long before we arrived. We had been advised by a friend of mine and manager of The Ice Factor, that getting as close to the climbing as possible would enable us to run out the full 60m of rope and get up onto the ridge to belay. Only problem was that gear was a bit sparse there! H managed to unearth a big hex placement and I reckoned that would do as I could get gear in once moving up and a few moves up I could see some insitu tat.<br />
We had a faff with my new ropes which were all knotted again. They are a pair of Tendon ropes which I bought from Tiso and so far they have been a tangle of knots and kinks! But they are slowly improving. Another couple came up behind us as H was untangling the 2nd rope and I warned them that this was my 1st IV lead and I might be quite slow. The guy said it was going to be his first IV lead too. I had thought about asking if he was competent at leading IV and offering them to go first, but sod it, we had done all the hard work breaking trail that I deserved to go first, no matter how slow I was going to be. <br />
I was so nervous! A part of me wanting to back out of it, it was going to be too scary, I was kidding myself that I could lead IV! I didn't want to hang about too long and talk myself out of it, so I started off tentatively. After the 1st move up, I got my crampons caught in my powerstretch tights, aaaaaaarrrrggggggg! I'd stupidly forgotten my overtrousers but there was no way I wasn't climbing so decided just to climb in my thermals and tights and suffer if it was cold and windy. I'd ripped a big massive hole in them when slogging through all that snow and now my crampon had snagged in the hole. Shit and botheration! I had to balance with one crampon and one axe to untangle myself and start off again. If I felt nervous initially, I was crapping it now! Deep breath, tell myself to chill and off I go again. Get myself into an okay position and get my first bit of gear in. My calf is hurting though and I keep having to shake it out. It makes me even more nervous that I'm not going to manage this. After a couple more moves though, I'm relaxed and enjoying it. I can do this, oh yes!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZE-4EU6mu0M7HH0CR4x2rcdcfUXWq8D3jD6UIlaTf_EiW2SikXVQOLvfwCMrDkQ4uam-qBQuktO9sidl4Wa1e8DfNfiZQ5lM3bKxxPcU5UbtzbEzQQqlIzhYJzj3m8Ie8rEREtLnwlqk/s1600/H+finishing+1st+pitch+of+Raeburn%2527s+route+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZE-4EU6mu0M7HH0CR4x2rcdcfUXWq8D3jD6UIlaTf_EiW2SikXVQOLvfwCMrDkQ4uam-qBQuktO9sidl4Wa1e8DfNfiZQ5lM3bKxxPcU5UbtzbEzQQqlIzhYJzj3m8Ie8rEREtLnwlqk/s320/H+finishing+1st+pitch+of+Raeburn%2527s+route+.jpg" width="230" /></a>Reach and check out the insitu tat. One bit looks pretty much brand new so I clip in and move up. Things get interesting. The first pitch involves going up a chimney to a cul de sac and then breaking out right of the chimney to follow a groove up onto a ridge. The chimney has some really nice climbing in it and is well protected. In fact, the whole first pitch has more gear than you can shake a stick at and I don't think I've ever placed so much gear on one pitch before! At one point I was wedged into the chimney for a nice rest and decided this was the point where I should break out right as there was only steep rock above and no snow. Getting out of the chimney was the crux of the first pitch and it felt really balancy and committing and it took me a while of resting and thinking about things to go for it. I ended up on a ledge, decided that I didn't like the look of the snow between the ledge and the upper groove, so manage to downclimb onto a lower ledge and precariously make my way across and up to the groove. Those moves felt all a bit sketchy due to the snow being so deep.<br />
The next part up the groove was easy enough just very time consuming due to the snow and also because I was getting a lot of drag on my ropes. I'd extended one of the ropes with a sling before traversing out but in hindsight, I maybe should have extended both ropes as it was getting to the point where I was having to pull up lots of rope before I could move off again. I eventually got up onto the ridge though and found a belay further along. Woohoo, I'd done it! The rest should be easier now, hah! Fat chance, the next bit was desperate!<br />
There was a pillar that you had to climb behind and then go up a narrow chimney. That was really good fun, so funky! Then there was a gap between the pillar and a wall. I took the easiest break on the left of the wall and moved up. Hmmmm, this isn't easy! I was a few metres up the wall, with one nut placement in a well worn grooved crack so I knew I wasn't off line. But damned if I knew where to go next! I thought about heading left and shuffled along a bit. There was nothing for my axes that I could find at all and I recalled the guide book mentioning that the 2nd pitch was hard under snow. They weren't joking! I was there for ages, pondering and wondering the best way to go. There was a bottomless groove to my left that looked okay once you got into it. But how to get into it? It would have involved a swing around a bulging bit of rock and I just couldn't find anything at all for my axes to make that move with and that nut placement didn't seem so great anymore.<br />
I dug away the snow from the wall above me, blank. I dug away the snow from the wall to the right of me. Aha! I found a small edge that I could precariously hook one axe onto. I then dug away the snow and tried to flatten it with my foot, balancing as I had nothing up above to hold onto. The snow was falling away beneath my foot into the air below, eeeek! I could see gaps of air and light through the snow and knew it wasn't very stable. But I didn't have any choice! I checked out my fall options. If I fell, I was going a few metres onto a big snowy ledge before so at least I wasn't going to die and my iffy bits of gear might slow me down too. Oh well, it was now or never! I slithered across, heart in my mouth when the snow crumbled away beneath me then held again! I hooked my left axe on that tiny edge, stepped over the dodgy, airy bit of snow and scraped in the snow praying, praying, praying for a good purchase. Not great but it would have to do! I moved across and bingo, got my other axe into a better placement! And relax! That was the hardest thing I'd ever led before and at no point did I know what the outcome was going to be, it was pure and utter commitment! Wow, who'd have thought I could do that and keep calm and collected!<br />
It wasn't over though. I had to dig away some ledges for my feet so I could get up and over the wall on my right as I just couldn't reach properly over the edge with my axes. I managed to unearth a big blog of turf and hammer in an iffy bulldog. It might not have held but it sure made me feel good! Then it was a case of digging out the snow on the edge of the wall, getting my axes secure, moving up on those foot holds I'd found and then I had to mantle on my axes. I'm sure I gave a woop once I was over as I could see easy ground ahead. It was a sheer, 'thank feck for that' moment! More snowy ground followed with lots of digging, so tiring! I came to a good spot and rather than go ahead up the easy finish, I decided to bring H up, where I could hear how she was getting on with the scary bit and give a tight rope and help if need be.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24xeP_OwcBiFh29uBtlyn7WWMqGZMDiI9F2a7dMUEbQH1mUH5j-92SN6Yqf1LtCD7WT4Rm6S-oao9b2j1c6tVqIRRF18mMZXnPX8lSD5q1so9cUbJjgBpneeS_7emvL055oTpiR3EYIM/s1600/view+from+Stob+Coire+nan+Lochan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24xeP_OwcBiFh29uBtlyn7WWMqGZMDiI9F2a7dMUEbQH1mUH5j-92SN6Yqf1LtCD7WT4Rm6S-oao9b2j1c6tVqIRRF18mMZXnPX8lSD5q1so9cUbJjgBpneeS_7emvL055oTpiR3EYIM/s320/view+from+Stob+Coire+nan+Lochan.jpg" width="320" /></a>I'm sure she squeeled a little on the scary bit as the snow was giving away and she said she didn't enjoy it too much once she was up. It was pretty horrible and insecure! Poor H had an awful headache too and didn't look well at all. I said I'd lead the last easy pitch so she didn't have to as she was in pain and again it involved more clearing of snow, but no desperate ground thankfully, just a few big steps but they were easy enough. H had said that the guy below had poked his head over the ridge and gone back down and they'd abbed off. I'm unsure if it was whether we were being so slow or whether it was due to the conditions. <br />
I was soon up at the top and ended up setting up a belay and sitting down. Bad mistake! By the time H came up, my bottom was numb with cold and the wind was picking up and I was freezing. We quickly sorted the ropes and headed back down into the corrie for the other sack. The light was going that dull way as we got into the corrie and I knew it was going to get dark soon. I was in no rush though, happy to have done my much lusted after route and in no mood to rush as my feet were now hurting going down in my new boots. We kept crampons on for a while and I gave H the keys for the car as she was moving much faster. My knee was giving me a bit of grief and my legs felt like jelly. Now that I'm home I discovered a massive bruise on my knee, joys of winter climbing and udging up on knees. My toes were hurting in my boots but not as bad as they have been. I still cursed and grumbled my way down the hill though, stopping to take crampons off and jacket off, and hat, gloves and buff, then my windproof too! It was really mild. It got dark just as we were approaching the bridge and I thought the carpark wasn't far from the bridge. But there was still a wee bit to go and then an evil, evil, evil up hill bit! Getting back to the car was bliss and taking off my boots was even better. I joked to H that sod the actual routes, the only reason I go climbing is for that orgasmic relief of taking your boots off at the end of a long day.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-33809073721641337862011-01-27T14:45:00.000-08:002011-01-27T14:45:51.165-08:00Sneachda - 26th/27th JanNot long back from 2 days climbing in Coire an t-Sneachda, my least favourite climbing ever. But midweek it is actually not too bad. Still busy, but not hoaching! And an early start on both days meant we were first on our chosen routes.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJtN6H8hEyZbMhMm3eWzyZZzbaVm7x3w73mfkF6sc8F2fK7rRdmhV1UsQmjJl-oQjuKM-cQ47okeLySwTVz3YRV39mpct5OS0402yrEcmMBeCQ9ckvgsw7tlT9nyufDh_aTwH62ALHhAg/s1600/H+approaching+Fiacail+Buttress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJtN6H8hEyZbMhMm3eWzyZZzbaVm7x3w73mfkF6sc8F2fK7rRdmhV1UsQmjJl-oQjuKM-cQ47okeLySwTVz3YRV39mpct5OS0402yrEcmMBeCQ9ckvgsw7tlT9nyufDh_aTwH62ALHhAg/s320/H+approaching+Fiacail+Buttress.jpg" width="320" /></a>We had planned to go to Hell's Lum on Wednesday but it was raining heavily on the drive up to Andy's house and we reckoned that would be falling as snow high up, still we were hopeful. But it dawned clagged in and drizzly and the winds were strong from the North to North East, so I decided not to risk it and just go in to Sneachda instead. <br />
Andy had been leading clients up Spiral Gully the day before and said that conditions were really good on it, with Red Gully not being so good. Red Gully is only one pitch really then a plod to the top, so we decided to do Spiral. I'm happy doing easy gullies and ice routes for the time being as being more of a mixed climber, I rarely climb ice or gullies and they make me a bit nervous, but I'm determined to get used to them!<br />
Once in the Coire, I spoke to someone who regularly reads my blog and that was nice, in fact, the whole day was quite sociable, with stops every now and then to blether to various different folk, though I was happy when a group of 3 decided to go up Wavelength rather than Spiral. Wavelength looks a really nice route.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkN79kBWN0YXIVGAJyoHKbX3wF0vnaGlV0NkxDC4zX17UbPBrb9S1wsKKYetOTSLUy6cD0BDrUM5EnFexAyfR5t9F7D3VUbrh8LM_34n4tilEyPoNPGSIR_mK01nXFLB9CSPGW3N5h2b4/s1600/Fiacail+Ridge+and+The+Seam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkN79kBWN0YXIVGAJyoHKbX3wF0vnaGlV0NkxDC4zX17UbPBrb9S1wsKKYetOTSLUy6cD0BDrUM5EnFexAyfR5t9F7D3VUbrh8LM_34n4tilEyPoNPGSIR_mK01nXFLB9CSPGW3N5h2b4/s320/Fiacail+Ridge+and+The+Seam.jpg" width="320" /></a>I led the 1st pitch of Spiral, a bit of a snow plod, but with icy bits nearer to the top of the pitch. Right from the word go we were having trouble with my new ropes. They are seriously kinked, often happens with new ropes, but I've never had ropes kink like this before, they were constantly jamming up in the belay device and I was having to stop every so often so H could sort it out. I was certainly glad we had chosen something easy under the circumstances! I carried on leading the 2nd pitch and was having trouble with the ropes too when belaying H up. I took the left icy groove on the 2nd pitch which looked marginally more interesting, followed by a wee groove to the right of the normal route. H led the 3rd pitch, up and round the diagonal part of the gully and then I led the last wee smidgeon to the top. It was an okay route, but I found it pretty easy really, low end grade II and didn't think it worth 2 stars, though the top pitch had okay scenery.<br />
I'd been climbing in my new pair of boots, Nepale Extremes and was finding them pretty sore on the walk out, ugh! But my new axes are fantastic and we managed to place one new ice screw. We went to descend via the Goat Track but it was blowing a hoolie at the top, so much so that the wind and needle like snow was blinding me. Got my goggles out, only to find out that Lidl's cheap goggles are completely and utterly gaff! As soon as I put them on they were misting up and I couldn't see a thing, so I was blinded either way! In the end we decided to just walk around the top and it wasn't that windy up there anyway. It was pretty pea soup though so we had to take a bearing off point 1141, walk on it for about 500m, then I reckoned we should bear more to the right to meet the ski tows. I don't think we went right enough though as we met up with the ski tows and never once saw the main track down, but that was okay.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlS87oD3nzMYm8tfGH12MxPpZ7ieWlrwsf45idtcPV1QG__5M69_1nt-Fnq_IjXFoKfkhbTL61-LfuZ7Q07DjMZcu4rxBqp3zq2GcTRSUdX2kdy8jyWQWasTHwmtNpCqmnBddXzxRXzH8/s1600/Andy+of+the+start+of+Invernookie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlS87oD3nzMYm8tfGH12MxPpZ7ieWlrwsf45idtcPV1QG__5M69_1nt-Fnq_IjXFoKfkhbTL61-LfuZ7Q07DjMZcu4rxBqp3zq2GcTRSUdX2kdy8jyWQWasTHwmtNpCqmnBddXzxRXzH8/s320/Andy+of+the+start+of+Invernookie.jpg" width="320" /></a>The next day we set off early again, but I was so slow it was unbelievable! I can't believe I was actually struggling to get into Sneachda! I get this weird thing because of the irritation to my spinal cord, where my legs go wonky and I feel like I have to think about how to walk and how to move my legs, rather than just automatically walking. My legs feel weird and weak and my balance and proprioception goes all a bit wonky. But we got there eventually, and cut off towards Fiacaill Buttress to go up Fiacaill Couloir. We had to don crampons fairly early on on the traverse round as the ground got pretty icy and then it was a total slog up to the base of the route. It didn't help that it was a clear and sunny day and I had on base layer, fluffy and cozy fleece, windproof and gortex jacket! I was like a boil in the bag Sonya! It was torture and wasn't helped by the fact that I was getting sciatica in my upper leg and my upper back was sore with my sack. Things only got worse after that.<br />
The 1st pitch looked easy, so I said I'd do that, so H could try leading some harder bits. I ended up having quite a hard time, burning pain in my leg because of my back and weakness in my arms, not helped my horrible calf burn either! It was awful and I was grunting and groaning and 'ughing and arrging' all the way up the pitch. I felt bad for those below as I was making an awful racket! The 1st pitch is seriously run out and even though there were bits were I probably could have scraped away to find some gear, I just couldn't stop there as there were no ledgy bits and the snow and ice was rock solid. The ice was pretty horrible on the 1st pitch, really brittle in places, but okay in others. I ended up running out the whole 60m without placing one bit of gear, but I just had to keep moving to get up to a good belay ledge where I could stand in comfort and easy my back and legs.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1uYcDty1XQNL_niuaF72uBBEqZIrtn6JXUvpQKZ2x5LLwosLKK75VJ5HHQXp9cgCseAfsadye_PAoBJUwTbs-Yr8sJY65SmAOtVQhD3zZrkUE6ojBXIGk5gwaoTf1LpiDaaX-KvBzMc/s1600/Shelterstone+crag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1uYcDty1XQNL_niuaF72uBBEqZIrtn6JXUvpQKZ2x5LLwosLKK75VJ5HHQXp9cgCseAfsadye_PAoBJUwTbs-Yr8sJY65SmAOtVQhD3zZrkUE6ojBXIGk5gwaoTf1LpiDaaX-KvBzMc/s320/Shelterstone+crag.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The 1st belay was palatial and a total luxury, but I was struggling with the ropes again bring H up, grrrr! I asked H if she would lead the next pitch so I could have a rest and she maanged to get in 3 bits of gear, 2 slings and an ice screw. The 2nd pitch finished up a snowy bit barred by a chockstone. H was belayed just a little under the chockstone and to the left and we got ourselves organised so that H could lead the next pitch again. The 3rd pitch was fun! And I was kicking myself for resting as it was more like mixed climbing than a straight forward gully. The chockstone was great fun! There wasn't much build up under or over the stone but luckily the crack between the chockstone and the right wall was filled with useable ice. The ice on top of the stone was hopeless however. H slipped a little but got up just fine after that and then disappeared out of view, shouting down that she was going to take the direct grade III finish.<br />
A while later it was my turn to go. You had to get right up to the chockstone, reach over into that crack on the right, then bridge up onto a ledge on the right wall. Almost doing the splits, I then had to get my left foot up, but typical, I didn't have the flexibility to get my weight over onto that high foot. I matched my axes in the crack and just sort of leaped across and up, praying my axes would hold, which they did! I could see that H had decided against the III finish and had decided against going down to the left also. She had traversed upwards and leftwards instead. She said that the icy wall at the start of the direct finish had horrible thin ice on it and no gear, so had decided against it. The other way was nice though. You traversed up and leftwards, then down a little groove for about 10 feet, then traversed up and left again and round a corner to an easy finish. I climbed past H and pulled the ropes up over the top, giving H a body belay up the last leg.<br />
It was stunning up there! Clear blue skies with an inversion below, not much wind at all and crisp, clear air. We were happy sitting around for a while, eating and drinking. I was parched and starving, having forgotten to take any nibbles in my pockets for the belays.<br />
The Goat Track was a doddle today, with soft snow all the way down so you could just walk down outwards. I had wondered where Andy had gotten to, as we had seen him with his clients on Invernookie but it turned out he'd already finished and was bring his clients up the 1st pitch of Goat Track Gully as we headed past!<br />
The walk out was hell, worse than yesterday! B3 boots are evil, evil, evil to walk in and the bottoms of my feet were throbbing and my old ankle injury kept searing too. I felt old and crooked today and annoyed at my bodies failings ruining what would have been a perfect day otherwise. I sure hope those boots break in quickly!Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-45959626134453503822011-01-18T12:41:00.000-08:002011-01-18T12:48:41.281-08:00Lochnagar - 17th Jan '11At last I've been out climbing again and boy have I gotten seriously unfit! 4 weeks of not being out in the hills or doing any running has turned me into a slob! So much so that what should have been 2 days at Lochnagar turned into just 1 day because I couldn't face walking up again in the wind after a windy day previously. And the wind wasn't even all that bad, just it was NW rather than SW so we wouldn't have been totally sheltered. I'm getting soft, soft, soft and need to harden myself up again. Time for some physical torture in the form of running again to toughen myself up!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_m1vKD5uujDv8dro2h7cFIVqOvKtHNSzoE4lE2k0an8toSH049jd57yQH7Nqkh8PexvR2mldfWrvWVxIXp6JROaa7DG9xLMuUe4ElBMcyhNTbqC5e2gMcPIVIDVh3fWc1c0ZP7UilPAE/s1600/Lochnagar+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_m1vKD5uujDv8dro2h7cFIVqOvKtHNSzoE4lE2k0an8toSH049jd57yQH7Nqkh8PexvR2mldfWrvWVxIXp6JROaa7DG9xLMuUe4ElBMcyhNTbqC5e2gMcPIVIDVh3fWc1c0ZP7UilPAE/s320/Lochnagar+2.jpg" width="320" /></a>Anyway, H and I drove up to Lochnagar in the van on Friday evening, arriving in time to pop up a tent for H as I've been plagued by insomnia of late and would probably end up kicking and shoving her out of the cramped van bed. We had a blether for a while, a cuppy, sorted the gear and then crashed pretty early for a 6am alarm.<br />
It was blowin' a hoolie all night long and was blowin' a hoolie in the morning but it didn't take long to warm up on the walk in and strip off some layers and I was thankful that most of the ice on the path could be avoided, lest it make me grumpy! We arrived at the Col in around 2hrs where we stopped to don crampons whilst being nearly blown over several times, then dropped down into the Corrie. I was really surprised by how much snow was left. The tops of the routes looked really snowy and the rocks were looking pretty wintery too! We weren't getting the shelter I had hoped we would in the Corrie though and after much discussion we decided to do one of the shorter routes in the Southern sector and check out conditions on the route. If they were really good then we would do a longer route, or Raeburn's Gully the next day.<br />
As it was, as we got higher towards the Southern sector, the more we got out of the wind and it was amazingly calm at the bottom of the routes! We would have been fine going for something longer, but we were there now. I was peering over towards Central Buttress as it's always taken my fancy but I'm not entirely sure where the route is supposed to start.<br />
We decided on a ** grade II called The Gift and I asked H if she wanted to lead the first pitch seen as she didn't get to lead much when she was out with me before. She cruised it fine and placed the first bit of gear about 20m up after I reminded her she had a warthog she could place in turf. I hadn't bothered with the ice screws and I'm not sure the ice on the first pitch was thick enough anyway, but my new stubby might have gone in. H was laughing at me, saying I had all this nice new gear, my boots particularly and I wasn't using it. I joked that maybe I never would as it would be a shame to get my new expensive boots dirty! H's boots are a nice brown colour now, rather than the bright yellow they used to be. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrMOww3e1qQJuvcPXLM6m2IN3F-65uSt9UNpqGANkLkQGvIWy3jBupemUzmQusQq0Nwmy18bLyrHCnp2Il4EhHi0KGnJk75ebcxMNpsjbQUUybL0yVFvSR3Kcp82o6NStIEyqTYYHpHA/s1600/Southern+sector+of+Lochnagar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrrMOww3e1qQJuvcPXLM6m2IN3F-65uSt9UNpqGANkLkQGvIWy3jBupemUzmQusQq0Nwmy18bLyrHCnp2Il4EhHi0KGnJk75ebcxMNpsjbQUUybL0yVFvSR3Kcp82o6NStIEyqTYYHpHA/s320/Southern+sector+of+Lochnagar.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>As per usual, H and I had a rope faffing moment! I'd decided after our previous escapades to bring 2 ropes, but unfortunately one rope is only 40-45m and the other is 60. So of course, H had nearly run out all of the shorter rope before she found a suitable belay. I untied from the shorter rope and left her on the longer one as I could see she had the longer rope clipped into gear, although her top 2 bits of gear were on the shorter! In the end it was fine, as me untying allowed her to climb another wee bit and spot a good belay, and I think there was around 10cm of shorter rope left in the belay device! That got pulled through as she set up the belay and when she was safe and I was good to go, I just climbed up a couple of moves and tied back into the rope.<br />
The ice on the first pitch was good in places and cruddy in others but the turf was stonking! It felt pretty steep going for grade II and was really nice where the groove narrowed. I was always making sure that my heels were down, I was keeping my legs relaxed and trying to climb in an 'A' shape. The 'A' shape thing I liked but still my calfs were hurting and it was always good to get to a bit of softer snow or a more ledgy bit to stand more side on with feet.<br />
I thought H had the meat of the route and there just seemed to be a wee snow slope to the top, so I just said I'd grab the nuts and be off, grabbing a couple of quickdraws as an afterthough, thinking there's no way I'd place even 2 bits of gear. That was wrong! Carrying up the slope, I saw that the top was further than it looked and there was an overhanging cornice, eeeeeeeeeeeeeeek! <br />
'Holy sh*t!' I deliberated, 'hmmmmmm.........'<br />
I decided to climb up onto the tower of rock to the left instead, up a wee, steep groove and onto a snowy ledge. Well the snowy ledge was a bank of snow that dropped into air below, but I decided not to look down again and just get a move on, albeit carefully! I turned a slight corner, aiming for the top rocks, but first I had to get up onto another snowy mound to the right. Once up there, I managed to bung a big cam in a crack, phew! Then I decided that the rock there was too steep with not much for feet. The rock to the left looked even steeper with a big granite bulge but underneath that there was a ledge for my feet burried in the snow. I worked my axes up the big bank of soft snow above, careful not to weight them too much, working my feet up throught the soft now at the same time, a wee traverse back to the left, prayed my axes wouldn't rip through the soft snow, swing leg up onto the foot hold that I'd previously cleared of snow. Worked up axes again, got my weight right over that good foot and felt safe, phew again! Axes over the top and onto some bomber turf and there was a huge block waiting for me to belay H from.<br />
It was far, far too windy to communicate so after pulling in the rope and giving 3 mighty tugs on the ropes, I felt that H was on the move. 'Oh my!' she said when she topped out, 'that top bit was scary!'<br />
'Aye, tell me about it!'<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTO3HaaazM5Baf-qTQ1J3XPhchSgOJ-yh2aE_1FHHwg5T4d2lwZU5p_YZHJqMe9EGU5LSymqTMWgVpQsw8N_meJcFuRlkpTMe1r89ts5msLuFPYp58ISm4ZP91o08jBPwtXTLQbnQigx0/s1600/H+on+the+1st+pitch+of+The+Gift.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTO3HaaazM5Baf-qTQ1J3XPhchSgOJ-yh2aE_1FHHwg5T4d2lwZU5p_YZHJqMe9EGU5LSymqTMWgVpQsw8N_meJcFuRlkpTMe1r89ts5msLuFPYp58ISm4ZP91o08jBPwtXTLQbnQigx0/s320/H+on+the+1st+pitch+of+The+Gift.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>We bunged things in the sack quickly to get out of the wind, took crampons off as it was so wind scoured on top, but then decided to put them on again going down the 'ladder' path as it was so icy. I kept them on until nearing the point where you start uphill again onto the main path and was glad I didn't have my new, sharp crampons on as there were rocky bits to cross too, but I managed to stick to mostly snow and ice. We were back at the van in good time, for a cuppie and Jaffa Cakes.<br />
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We set the alarm for 5.30am the next morning, thinking that if the wind had died down we would do a longer route. I was still hesitant about Raeburns, scared of the guide description of having to avoid a massive cornice! And I became confused about the start of Central Buttress. The guide says it starts up Shallow Gully but the topo diagram has it starting on the opposite side of the buttress! So we decided to give it a miss until I could ask Andy about where the route started. We thought we'd just go and do one of the shorter routes again and H was keen to have a look at a starred III called Gael Force Groove.<br />
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I was tired the next morning, but it dawned dry and there didn't seem to be any wind, so off we went. The path was far more icy than it had been the previous morning and I wasn't sure if that was just because it was earlier or whether it was because it had been colder through the night, but I think it had been colder as it had seemed freezing sleeping in the van until I hunkered under 2 down quilts and my base layer and fleece jammies and down jacket and down booties (thank you Andy, I love those booties!)<br />
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I was finding the walk tough though. My legs were hurting from the day before and the wind was hurting my face and making me feel dizzy and I had a slight headache from not drinking enough the day before, I'll never learn! The wind was blowing fiercer, the higher we got and I realised not long after that the reason we hadn't noticed it below and the reason it seemed fiercer higher was because it had changed from a SW to a NW. Big puffy clouds were puffing up over the Cairngorms and I thought it looked like it might even snow at some point. My heart sank a little. If the day hadn't been windy then I'd have kept going, but I just couldn't be bothered having to fight against the wind in the Corrie and being all cold and blustered on the route as it wouldn't have been as sheltered on a NW'erly. We decided to head back down. H was totally cool about it as she had plenty of work to get on with at home and knew we'd be heading out next week to do something good.<br />
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I've been kicking myself all day though! The wind wasn't that bad at all really, I was just being really lazy and I felt worse when we passed 2 teams going up as we were coming down! Not to worry though, I did one nice route, even if it was too short! And I'm hoping to head NW next week, forecast willing.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-87660631403551290042010-12-20T03:34:00.000-08:002010-12-20T03:34:01.235-08:00Lomond and Lui - 18th and 19th DecWell, that's me finished Uni for the xmas hols and it's exams after xmas so the next few weeks will be spent studying my backside off as I want A's for everything, swot that I am! But this weekend was reserved for getting a final hit of some winter climbing before getting down to hard work.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLoHdFQ55jRmOEPVCMbzeKNZyY1GeSO1HRnP-Y3jV1dD8nFP2_T1UGzBrK8i7rQF24g-M4I_-_ZIizDAE7Frxdn8l8gXuhUVCh_5DpAieAm-DvNrzpk1-peBeZ5jrm5AzVAcQGfMVSfkI/s1600/It+was+a+bit+on+the+cold+side+on+Lomond.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLoHdFQ55jRmOEPVCMbzeKNZyY1GeSO1HRnP-Y3jV1dD8nFP2_T1UGzBrK8i7rQF24g-M4I_-_ZIizDAE7Frxdn8l8gXuhUVCh_5DpAieAm-DvNrzpk1-peBeZ5jrm5AzVAcQGfMVSfkI/s320/It+was+a+bit+on+the+cold+side+on+Lomond.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Andy and I were keeping a keen eye on the forecasts and the snow radar as a fair dump of snow was forecast for the North and the East on Thurs eve/Fri and into Sat and Sunday in the east. Looking at the forecasts and radars, it looked like the SW hadn't really had much snow to speak of so we decided that we'd head back to Ben Lomond for the weekend. The main worry was that there actually wouldn't be enough snow! But I didn't think it would need that much. The turf would still be frozen and as long as there was a dusting then that was enough for me as Lomond is predominantaly a steep and turfy venue.<br />
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We'd considered driving over on Saturday morning and then camping out and climbing Sunday too, but my period announced its arrival on Friday so there was no way I was wanting to camp with bad Menorrhagia, climbing with it is bad enough! So we decided to see if a local hotel had a room for the night, dependant on where we wanted to go on the Sunday.<br />
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Andy arrived at mine on Friday evening and we were up at 4.30am for the long drive across to Rowardennan carpark for Ben Lomond. Think we were off around 8ish or just a bit later than that. The walk up to Lomond is a long one and the path through the forest at the start was treachorously icy! Great! We stuck to the grassy bits at the side of the path pretty much the whole way up, putting on crampons for the last steeper leg. The tops were free of cloud when we set off and I commented that this would be the first time at Lomond that we'd had cloud free climbing. Well, I must have jinxed the day because not long after, a front came in from the east, the wind picked up and it started snowing. Not just a wee flurry as forecast but that was it pretty much snowing all day long. I was concerned about getting back home, but Andy was concerned about not getting a route in!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbivYuEOOFDsCtTwS4HHbWXh83SWz_3pO_H_DZ3VZyWSQlVn2EWDSqx3PWbajYO0jtxEiGFST4v4QnXtgQ36ATjufgLfQVbkUrwKC5cdliqsAdOy4G3h_sLwx77Qj2Slt4onEcNUjEV1o/s1600/This+is+what+winter+climbing+does.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbivYuEOOFDsCtTwS4HHbWXh83SWz_3pO_H_DZ3VZyWSQlVn2EWDSqx3PWbajYO0jtxEiGFST4v4QnXtgQ36ATjufgLfQVbkUrwKC5cdliqsAdOy4G3h_sLwx77Qj2Slt4onEcNUjEV1o/s320/This+is+what+winter+climbing+does.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>It was absolutely baltic up there! We had to find a relatively sheltered spot to put more layers on and it's the first time ever in my years of winter climbing that its ever been so cold where I've had to wak in with my Montane Extreme on! But on it went, along with balaclava, hat and buff, I felt I was going out exploring the Arctic! We finally arrived up at the top of the descent gully which only had patchy snow at the top. There was more lower down though, some of the crust was breaking and sliding away in slabs of snow which was a bit disconcerting, but it wasn't deep enough to be of much worry.<br />
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We'd decided to try a line a few routes to the left of Lomond Corner. The snowy groove looked steepish but when you were on it, it was actually not that steep at all. Andy led the first pitch seen as he had all the gear and when I reached him, we were only about 15m from the top of the actual cliff! Oh! Disappointing! I led off up the final wee bit and belayed Andy up off a fence post which was fun. We decided that seen as that route had been so short, we would go down and do another on the cliff we'd done our routes on last year. The first year we'd gone to Lomond the turf wasn't frozen enough to attempt any of the routes on this cliff as it's damn steep and totally turf dependant. The first pitch went without much difficulty and the 2nd pitch was an utter joy to climb! I was so nervous though belaying Andy. He'd spent ages at the crux and I was starting to gibber inside thinking it must be desperate to stop Andy in his tracks. I was thinking about peg and warthog belays and would they be good enough to hold me if I fell. I looked down to the bottom of the first pitch, wondering if I could survive a fall down there. Get a grip!<br />
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As it turns out, the crux was tricky (IV 5) but not desperate and Andy had taken so long as he wanted some good gear as the only gear in was the belay about 20m below. It was actually superb climbing! Really steep and technical but on absolutely amazingly big flakes and lumps of turf. I've never climbed something that was overhanging like that but on brilliant enough holds to make it easy enough to be tech 5. Andy called the route Flake Dance (as opposed to Break Dance) and it's very appropriate! I was absolutely gushing and buzzing when we topped out it was such nice climbing!<br />
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Alas, it was time for the long slog out however and the going was rough. There was a lot more snow than there had been in the morning and it was covering over all the ice on the path. I kept my crampons on and was constantly going over my ankle or stubbing my toe and cursing. Took crampons off to stick to the grass but didn't really find that any fast going so stopped and put crampons on again and just put up with the misery. Torches came out on the way down and we were back at the car around 6ish. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM27tEaLzJoUw3l_l9KX2TqrFSPtbIwH0Xpj6e8pygM5XoLDxsd8sXAGWOUZHYn6uavzg419Ati2m1AVBFEdPtsHD_E9HiiBWAdpQKtZzeQgPER_VwThtAFL7oCke2v44if0rosB9uxd0/s1600/Ben+Lui.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM27tEaLzJoUw3l_l9KX2TqrFSPtbIwH0Xpj6e8pygM5XoLDxsd8sXAGWOUZHYn6uavzg419Ati2m1AVBFEdPtsHD_E9HiiBWAdpQKtZzeQgPER_VwThtAFL7oCke2v44if0rosB9uxd0/s320/Ben+Lui.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>We stayed in a cheap hotel in Tyndrum for the night with the intention of going to have a look at the cliffs on Stob Garbh of Ben Lui. Someone had climbed a gradeII gully there years back and it looked like there might be a route beside the gully. It was a bit of a gamble as it was hard to tell whether it would by worthwhile or not and upon approaching the cliff it all looked a bit scrappy. Turned out to be much better than it looked though! I was so slow going today though. My period had started in earnest the night before and I had awful stomach cramps and back ache and was feeling all tired and grumpy. My legs were aching after the day before too which didn't help.<br />
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We took the best and steepest looking line to the right of the gully which followed a groove up to a really steep wall. Andy led the 1st pitch which was much steeper than it looked and on ice. Well, my calf protested very badly to front pointing when I had too by going into a full cramp! It was utter agony! I managed to release the total tetanus of the muscle but it remained tight through out the whole of the icy section. I'm really frustrated with my legs at the moment. My calf muscle seems to cramp up at the slightest stretch or tightening and it's related to all the nerve issues in my neck it would seem. Anyway, that ice section is a blurr of pain. I was a mess, back aching, neck and arms aching and calf cramping up, wasn't very nice at all! I could see this little turfy ledge above the ice and I concentrated all my focus on reaching that ledge so I could rest my calf, cursing all the while!<br />
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Andy asked if I wanted to rest my leg and he'd lead on and it was very tempting, but I decided to lead through and ended up having to do an 80m pitch as there was only one bit of gear at around 40m then everytime I found something that might suffice for a belay, I didn't have the right gear. Andy had to dismantle his belay and climb up to my one runner and belay me from there until I found another belay. I finally managed to bash in a peg and that had to do. The next 60m pitch took us to a steep band in the rock and I handed the lead back to Andy as it looked hard to me. Andy ended up traversing leftwards around the left edge of the steep band and taking it direct from there. Time for me to get nervous again! I was thinking, 'eeeek, steep and scary, gearless traverse!'<br />
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It was pretty dubious and sketchy looking but was easier than it looked. There was a good flake to hook your axe over and bomber turf so although it was very exposed it was in balance and just a small awkward move at the end. The next move however I found pretty desperate. It was totally overhanging! A really off balance move, which then put you into a bulging position where I managed to scrabble about for something with my axe, get my foot up onto an overhanging detached flake and then, 'aaaarrrgggg!' My axe pinged off and I was left dangling with one foot and one axe, big vertical drop down to the gully below! My heart leaped up into my mouth, I gave a squeal, scrabbled about some more, wacked my axe back in frantically and was up and over! Phew! Took me a moment to compose myself! <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnTQcCJYgIJLx4_x1_Q_m4_y6Iv5g4-ePp-WfoeCFBrzRJRQwodocLCWWWXlwNy0n7pvOY3KMu4wy5WuuvMAUpPgJah7PO4ZQSb7_TXOqCyP94lXzcF9_pJoH4c96kNE1CNiH5SI4EEk/s1600/Walking+in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXnTQcCJYgIJLx4_x1_Q_m4_y6Iv5g4-ePp-WfoeCFBrzRJRQwodocLCWWWXlwNy0n7pvOY3KMu4wy5WuuvMAUpPgJah7PO4ZQSb7_TXOqCyP94lXzcF9_pJoH4c96kNE1CNiH5SI4EEk/s320/Walking+in.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
By this point it had started to snow quite heavily and the cloud was down. I wanted to lead the next pitch which looked steep and interesting but Andy thought it would be harder than it looked and said he should lead it for quickness sake. I was pretty miffed because I was getting all the boring pitches and he was getting all the good climbing! But he did have a point about time as it was getting on and we still had a good way to go, the route was really long! In the end I was quite happy as it was pretty steep and there was no gear whatsoever. The climbing was good though, steep but bridging up a corner and totally in balance. I led the next pitch which apart from a tiny scrambly section was pretty much just walking. There seemed to be another steep wall above, but it was really just the top summit of Stob Garbh and a short walk took us onto the summit ridge. We just packed up our gear and dropped down the other side of the ridge into Coire Gaothach and down to the Ben Lui path. <br />
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Again the path was an icy nightmare and I kept my crampons on, going over my ankle a few times. It seemed to take forever to reach the river and the good track where I could take my crampons off but I finally got there and it was a relief to get them off. Andy seemed to think that it was only a 5k hour back to the car but I was sure it was much longer than that and I was right. Remembering what a slog it was after I was there the last time! It took an hour and 40mins to get back to the car and was 4.5 miles back, not 3miles. I was slow going too as my ankle was seizing up and really hurting. I resorted to counting the minutes go by in my head I was so tired, I would count to 60 again and again, letting 10minutes or so go past. Too tired for conversation, think Andy tried a few times, but I just grunted in response. The walk out was hellish. I'm so unfit just now, that was my first time this winter of 2hill days in a row, 9-10 hrs for the 1st day and 11 hrs for the second day. Think it's the most tired and sore I've ever been after a day out climbing. And today I hurt and ache all over, so tired and dehydrated. And I've got a session indoors at the wall this evening! I can see an evening of toproping 4's and 5's ahead!Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-55060780887300481942010-12-14T12:43:00.000-08:002010-12-14T12:43:42.883-08:00Ben Chonzie - Sunday 12th<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXk3csQNWyTXGBRT3h61Nap__dzTwWtHEY3aYWFYR83v2lTN8h0P9DSzwicWGtuZq0Ich2Jx4NCC201Z4VQQ1fDBcAk_3jYhE80NYSqlQAeN33sl7cuGWAHDWXphAXU8cEWnfSn92zKDA/s1600/The+Chonzie+glacier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXk3csQNWyTXGBRT3h61Nap__dzTwWtHEY3aYWFYR83v2lTN8h0P9DSzwicWGtuZq0Ich2Jx4NCC201Z4VQQ1fDBcAk_3jYhE80NYSqlQAeN33sl7cuGWAHDWXphAXU8cEWnfSn92zKDA/s320/The+Chonzie+glacier.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>D and I went munro bagging on Sunday up to Ben Chonzie. Just the one hill today as RB was doing kayaking skills and we had to pick her up early so didn't have time for a jaunt further afield. But as D reminded me, I still had to do Chonzie at some point so it may as well be this weekend and it might be nicer under snow.<br />
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Hmmm, sure it is nicer under snow, however it was horrible verglass and ice all the way up to around 500m and if there's anything I hate as much as boulder fields then it's icy paths! It's nice when you're hillwalking to be able to just switch off and enjoy the walk and surroundings, but when it's so icy underfoot then concentration is required and it just makes me grumpy if I slide around too much and can't switch off. Thankfully, once we were higher and there was deeper snow, the going was better and crossing round to the SE spur was nice with firm snow. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_XUU2Rg-5IDWPU5j26niVN-SblvAd1jpkXsWWJYO764zywaieNm3alODkjp3FdRXGiQQVvB-rESIdZjgPSpQRpRmZcUhBlkHaZoRlgoG3zdm4LWJ4NeRIzJn_vQ2u0uU0OnQay-pdyQE/s1600/Chonzie+to+Lawers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_XUU2Rg-5IDWPU5j26niVN-SblvAd1jpkXsWWJYO764zywaieNm3alODkjp3FdRXGiQQVvB-rESIdZjgPSpQRpRmZcUhBlkHaZoRlgoG3zdm4LWJ4NeRIzJn_vQ2u0uU0OnQay-pdyQE/s320/Chonzie+to+Lawers.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>There wasn't really any snow to speak of on the top and it's amazing to think how burried the country was just a week before. It was a stunning day out though, not a breath of wind, clear, crisp and icy blue sky all around with a distant mist and haze obscuring the peaks to the far North. It was freezing on top though and I was getting cold, must have sweated too much in my Merino top as I was still cold after putting on another 3 layers! We didn't hang around for too long and by the time we were going down, the sun had melted the snow and ice somewhat and the going down was loads better than going up, with the snow nice and soft and just a little ice nearer the bottom.<br />
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That's munro number 127, so nearly half way there now.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-55632705151544107342010-12-05T02:58:00.000-08:002010-12-05T02:58:55.673-08:00Stairway to Heaven - 4th DecYesterday I picked up H at 5.30am for a drive west to Beinn a Dothaidh. This is a superb venue, with steep, turfy routes, just the sort of stuff I love! I'd been worried that we might not get anything done at all though. The east coast has seen a phenomenal amount of snow over the past week and the radar had shown that the west coast was receiving a dump on the Friday evening. But I was thinking that the Bridge of Orchy area looked like the cut off line for the more heavy snow showers so might be okay. And I was correct, it was superb!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6uNal8b0Tcx7QMsTZBKRbpmQj6tthdwU9DiGQSbV1dZ-XNGJWcul2CfN6PAgEs4xY-BSys9IzDdMks5R-y2xR1Aj52bmqSwF9q2pQnUfSa6T1913EeHYeNcvTOl6Eltu-UMDm-blcUg/s1600/Beinn+a+Dothaidh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix6uNal8b0Tcx7QMsTZBKRbpmQj6tthdwU9DiGQSbV1dZ-XNGJWcul2CfN6PAgEs4xY-BSys9IzDdMks5R-y2xR1Aj52bmqSwF9q2pQnUfSa6T1913EeHYeNcvTOl6Eltu-UMDm-blcUg/s320/Beinn+a+Dothaidh.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The roads were okay, but I was slow driving anyway, due to the dark and the chat and after a garage stop, it was around 8ish I think when we arrived. Got our stuff together and started the slog in. Jeeze, I'm so unfit just now, it's unbelievable! I really need to get back out running and biking again and get out on the hill more, just walking and try to get some fitness back. Even though there was a trail all the way, I was still slow and puffing and panting.<br />
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We got there eventually though and our chosen route, Stairway to Heaven was free of other climbers. I'd chosen this route as it looked nice on the topo and had no technical grade and seemed straight forward enough. Well, it should have been straight forward! We had a bit of a rope issue though! I'd deliberated over taking 1 rope or 2 ropes but in the end just went for one rope, as my 2nd half rope is only 45m and I couldn't be bothered with short pitches. Bad mistake!<br />
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The first pitch started at the foot of a triangular shaped buttress and there was a steep start to begin with. I'd shoved in a hex for the belay, then some gear at the steep step, then more gear above the steep step which was off to the left. Already I was feeling a bit of drag in the rope. Moved up again for a while then got in some more gear way out to the left before moving up and right. The drag was getting worse! Ended up at another steep section which felt overhanging, it was bulging out so much! There was an excellent block out to the right that I was able to hook my axe around but I just couldn't reach the good turf over the top of the bulge. I kept popping up for it, but the bulge would just through me down again, it was getting annoying!<br />
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2 guys had shown up at the bottom of the route and I shouted down that they shouldn't wait as I'd be there for some time. I decided to try and turn the bulgy bit on the right, which involved a sketchy traverse, then a section where I crawled along a ledge and dropped down a step, then moved up and over the steep bit. That was funky! Unfortunately, I'd placed a sling around that original block and then the rope seemed to snag on blobs of turf and no matter how I tried I just couldn't free it! I was in a pickle now! I couldn't budge an inch and couldn't seem to free the rope, and there was no way I was downclimbing what I'd just done!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXIJuAGpKM2-keZ2s_NyU2pz1mmSPG7rdWDCuOu2y6OMBqcbMBc4EYE0_OqHpa0S2y-VXxrzIOxKYe_SOzNw2BJ201QB94PEI0_jHh4wscUOqfbPZIOlr6-3A6r0_u5jp0zG5EExCajzE/s1600/H+starting+the+2nd+pitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXIJuAGpKM2-keZ2s_NyU2pz1mmSPG7rdWDCuOu2y6OMBqcbMBc4EYE0_OqHpa0S2y-VXxrzIOxKYe_SOzNw2BJ201QB94PEI0_jHh4wscUOqfbPZIOlr6-3A6r0_u5jp0zG5EExCajzE/s320/H+starting+the+2nd+pitch.jpg" width="320" /></a>It was a nightmare! I was thankfully in a good position and was able to heave on the rope with all my might with both hands, so much so that I was almost pulling myself off the route at times! Slowy, inch by inch I managed to pull up a few metres so I could make some more moves. Then I had to repeat the process again, then again, then again until I could find a suitable belay. The gear had been amazing below but was becoming sparser! I had around 5m of rope left before I got a suitable belay. I wanted a stonking one as I thought H might find the pitch difficult. The belay wasn't perfect, but was adequate. H had to climb the start of the pitch with some slack in the rope until the rope had freed some and I could pull it in. She managed the pitch really well, finding it easy which was great and I was really impressed! Thus ended the faff of the 1st pitch.<br />
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2nd pitch faff. H reckoned she could lead the 2nd pitch which looked a lot easier than the 1st, up another short step, then what looked like a snowy ramp above to antother steepening. Off she went, until I could see her going up a snowy steepening over to all the steep rocks on the left hand side of the buttress. 'Um, H,' I shouted, 'I think you need to be more right, away from all the steep bits. But she had thought she could go right up to the steep bits and then traverse rightwards at the top. It didn't look probable to me, but I should have trusted her more, after all she was the one up there and was able to see things more than I could down at the belay! I shouted up that she really had to go rightwards lower down, but she didn't like the look of that, so came back down and said I should try it.<br />
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After sorting the rope and gear, I set off over the wee step and onto a flat snowy section. It looked like you go up the snowy bit, then cut round to right. I could see why H had thought it looked scary as there was a big drop below and no gear. But the snow was soft enough to kick into and firm enough that it wasn't all falling away which made the traverse across nice and easy. Then it was just a case of heading up a snowy ramp to a belay. Again the belay wasn't the best, but adequate and I brought H up. We had another rope moment, with the rope getting snagged somewhere. H couldn't free it, even when she went back. I think it had dropped down a gully as she'd come up the flat bit and snagged down there. Anyway, to solve the problem, H clipped herself into some gear I'd place en route, untied, pulled the rope through, then tied back in. Of course, communication was hard as she was too far away and I was clueless as to what was going on, wondering why she was taking so long on what was really easy ground. I think both of us were getting fed up of shouting, so I just waited to see what was going on. Eventually the rope ran fast again and she was across, explaining what had happened.<br />
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We decided that I should lead the last pitch as the guide had said there was a crux on the second steepening. But it was a doddle! I think the first pitch was harder than that! There was one steep section, where you had to make another traverse again and that was it. But I think I'd just gotten used to all the traversing about by now and the little steepenings that it seemed really easy. And H found it easy too, surprised that it hadn't been harder as she could have led it fine. Time was getting on though and the light was fading, due to all the rope snagging faff. After bringing H up the last bit, there was just an easy scramble to the top, so we just packed away the rope and soloed up the 20m or so. The fog was thick and H thought there was a big cornice at the top. I explained how the mist and fading light was making it look deceptive and there wasn't really a cornice there at all, remembering the time Andy and I took RB up Central Gully in Sneachda only to be faced with a humungous cornice in the mist, wind and spindrift which turned out to be not so big and you could go around it!<br />
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We shoved stuff in our bag, deliberated whether we should descend West gully, decided against it as it was getting dark and set off for the path down. The mist had cleared and it seemed to get loads lighter which made things easier and we found the path no problem, not needing the map. From previous visits I remembered a steeping at the top of the descent then straight forward after that. By the time we'd gotten about half way down the the ridgey bit you descend down, the dark had well and trully set it. Looking up to the cliffs, we could see some headtorches still on the West Buttress. A couple of guys had passed us as we stopped on the approach up to the cliffs, to have something to eat. One guy said hello and the other guy blanked us completely. Who knows whether he was nervous of the day ahead, and keeping himself to himself, or just plain ignorant! Anyway, we reckoned it was them up there and there was slow movement and I think they were on one of the V's, so we assumed they knew what they were doing and carried on down.<br />
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It had gotten misty again and we got to a section where there seemed to be a bit of a drop and we were hesitant to fumble on in the dark and mist again. Out came the map and H had her GPS to confirm where we were. It seemed we could go due West to avoid the steepening, but then we'd have to traverse right round again. The couple of bloked who'd been waiting for us on the route, and had then decided to go do Taxus instead, over took us on the descent, hesitated at the steep bit but then carried on down. I admit to being a bit sheepish here and following them. But we could see there headtorches down there and it seemed that the ground wasn't as steep as it looked, just the dark and mist making it deceptive again.<br />
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The going was quite slippery though, soft, fluffy powdery snow over frozen rock and I'm not sure which of all of us fell onto our backsides more! At one point when I slipped, my foot got snagged on something and my whole body fell downwards, but my leg stayed behind. Aaaarg! &*^%%^& that was sore! I'd pulled a muscle at the top of my leg, lay on the ground groaning for a moment, then picked myself up. It twinged and ached for quite a while, but I could walk on it just fine and by the time we'd gotten back down to the car it had loosened off again. Then began the drive home.<br />
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Ace day though and at least we managed to finish our route this time, in spite of all the rope snagging/drag problems.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-5280416595837058582010-12-02T12:31:00.000-08:002010-12-02T12:35:56.888-08:00Awesome Walls Open Youth Comp - 27th NovOn Friday afternoon I drove RB down to Liverpool for another competition. It took us around 5hours to drive to our hotel from Dundee, dump out stuff and straight to the hotel restaurant for tea (which was dire by the way, I'll never stay in Premier Inn again!) The room was cold but we blasted the heater up and then went for an early night, to get up at 6.30am. I had to bring our own breakfast as the hotel didn't serve breakfast before 8am!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirj8Va7uvqCnZtEOA8zBuBmAr-HOnEUAVyZqktMjySGavziT-BarGERNIYcRtGPz4v5ahZB0-zS-ktu_hAV6wEjtsC8C3ELW67uKqMtJE-ozdCbpi9fGWW913JOJWsz6n0YBOMVDZIxD0/s1600/RB+cruising+the+1st+qualifier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirj8Va7uvqCnZtEOA8zBuBmAr-HOnEUAVyZqktMjySGavziT-BarGERNIYcRtGPz4v5ahZB0-zS-ktu_hAV6wEjtsC8C3ELW67uKqMtJE-ozdCbpi9fGWW913JOJWsz6n0YBOMVDZIxD0/s320/RB+cruising+the+1st+qualifier.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>It took us a while to find Awesome Walls, getting a bit lost (rubbish directions on the wall website) but we were really impressed with the wall once we got there. It's an ace looking wall with a good bouldering area, steep leading walls and a featured tower, slabs, top roping walls.<br />
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RB's age group started off on a crimpy and technical route (not sure of the route) and RB did amazingly well on this one, slapping the top hold. 2 GB team members topped out and another team member and RB came joint 3rd. The second route went up the back overhanging wall which starts off slightly overhanging, becomes really overhanging and convex, then eases back to less overhanging. A few girls managed to top out on this route, both RB and the girl she was neck to neck with fell off 5 holds from the top. It meant that RB was knocked down to 5th position, but was still into the final.<br />
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The kids went into isolation for some time, but luckily RB's group was out first to check out their final route. I wasn't able to speak to RB so was praying that she was noticing where all the holds were and that she'd do good. Because 2 girls were drawing for 1st place, and RB was drawing with someone else for 5th place, it meant that 10 girls went through to the final and RB was up 5th to climb. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzMjFUe2K-_HZYHLDJEDE6uCHYopPeW8sVwQG-fmNOxKiGdOX6MA2quGIB79zyVYQIoazfQ04dpHaxt5uNGD20Fhrexflhv2NboUDTt2LlfnRFlhvfuaVwe074xN6QaZAxAXlzjQ4tZE/s1600/RB+on+the+2nd+qualifier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzMjFUe2K-_HZYHLDJEDE6uCHYopPeW8sVwQG-fmNOxKiGdOX6MA2quGIB79zyVYQIoazfQ04dpHaxt5uNGD20Fhrexflhv2NboUDTt2LlfnRFlhvfuaVwe074xN6QaZAxAXlzjQ4tZE/s320/RB+on+the+2nd+qualifier.jpg" width="235" /></a></div>I was gutted for RB, she didn't manage to climb as well as she normally does. I don't know what happened to her, but she seemed to get a touch of 'tunnel vision' and couldn't see a foot hold out on the left wall (it was a corner route) I was silently willing her to see the hold and work her feet up the wall, but she just didn't seem to spot the hold at all. The next handhold up was too much of a reach without that foothold and RB fell off. She was really upset, as she knew that the girls she'd beaten previously had gotten to a higher point and we were both confident that she can normally do better than she had done. I tried to console her, sometimes it just happens, you miss a hold, you have an off day, your foot slips, happens to the best of them.<br />
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Anyway, that was RB knocked down into 7th place but she put on a brave face and soon cheered up. I could see she was hiding her disappointment, but she coped well and went off to have some post comp fun with some of the other competitors, which I believe involved locking someone up in one of the lockers!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjWof22fDJ_juTEVnKf9yjVj96KxarLXoXUZz8In9FP9trSQuZoytSzdhiLTnHRaZqt2wBeL3GH2-pOpfzOYVVQ9wFBqxl4lRhsooR946eoPlWpGhrfN98fJpl-jNKRSbL4caY0IvmwM/s1600/The+final+route.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjWof22fDJ_juTEVnKf9yjVj96KxarLXoXUZz8In9FP9trSQuZoytSzdhiLTnHRaZqt2wBeL3GH2-pOpfzOYVVQ9wFBqxl4lRhsooR946eoPlWpGhrfN98fJpl-jNKRSbL4caY0IvmwM/s320/The+final+route.jpg" width="242" /></a></div>I went out for a short walk to stretch my back, but the biting cold soon forced me back and the fact that there wasn't much to see! We didn't stay until the end as I was eager to get off early, get some tea, an early night and be home early to try and miss the bad weather forecast.<br />
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Hah! That wasn't to be! What an epic getting home! Signs up the M6 were saying that the A9 was shut at Dunblane, but a phone call to D suggested that the road was clear now. We hit the first of the snow at the Lakes, but the roads were still fine, hitting snow on the roads once we were near Glasgow. Once passed Glasgow, the going was really slow and at one point folk were driving through a gap in traffic cones to get into a faster mover lane so I decided to join them. There was a huge dip in the gap and I was glad of my winter tyres! More signs that the A9 was shut at Dunblane and D checking Traffic Scotland website who were still saying it was open. We stopped at services in Stirling for lunch and a hot drink then went on our way, only to find that surprise, surprise, the A9 was shut at Dunblane! Rats!<br />
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Drove into Dunblane and tried to get back onto the A9 at the other side. Other folk were having the same idea and there was a massive queue of traffic through the town. A couple of pedestrians were walking up the snowy road at the side of the cars so I asked them how long the queue went on for, only to be told that it went right to the roundabout at the end of the road but folk seemed to be turning back round again. Sod waiting for that! I did a U-turn on the snowy road (thank god for the tyres again!) and headed back to the roundabout where the A9 was closed, preparing myself for a long wait. I got RB to text D and my Dad to see if the road between Stirling and Edinburgh was open, looks good. Shot off down past Stirling and onto the M90, road was good. Before the Forth Road Bridge we heard on the radio that the M90 was shut before Perth due to an accident, aarrrgggggh! Decided to risk the A92 through Fife and was amazed at how black this road was in comparison to the major roads.<br />
<br />
Hit Dundee, then stopped by my folks for something to eat and another hot drink then went on our way. Traffic Scotland said the A90 North of Dundee was shut due to another accident (jeeze, folk don't know how to drive in snow!) They said there was a local diversion in place so we went anyway. Um, where's the diversion? We ended up driving through all these side streets in Fintry, me hopelessly lost! Eventually found my way back to the dual only to see a car heading up the road past the 'Road Closed' signs. Followed and found the diversion. A policeman standing out in the cold wind and snow telling folk where to go.<br />
<br />
We had to take the Arbroath road home and again this road was brilliant in comparison to the main roads but once we left Arbroath and onto the Brechin road, it quickly deteriorated (thank god for winter tyres, take 3!) 9 hours later and we were home and cozy.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-88509440917682690402010-11-16T02:06:00.000-08:002010-11-20T10:01:06.570-08:00Ben Lui - Sun 14th NovOut of the blue I managed to find a climbing partner for this weekend. When taking RB to the wall, I had sometimes climbed with a lass from the wall and she just happened to mention a previous trip to the Alps and I asked curiously whether she did any Scottish winter stuff, only to be met with much enthusiasm. Brilliant! I wanted to do something easy seen as it was our first time out together and was deliberating between Dothaidh, Glen Coe and Ben Lui. The day I'd went up Central Gully on Lui, I thought it a bit dull and thought the rib next door looked far nicer, so I decided we could give that a go.<br />
I picked H up at 5.30am and we left the carpark at 8am. The walk in was fine, really pretty with the mist swirling all around, so pretty that I went to take a photo only to realise that the camera batteries were flat. Gutted! So no pics today, and there could have been some corkers too!<br />
The walk up into the gully is a slog, my arthritis is protesting more and more about these steep walks. Helena offered to take some weight, but I'm far, far too proud and stubborn for that. When the day comes that I'm unable to carry my own share, is the day that I should give up. And the sack wasn't too bad as it was a very small rack of just some nuts and slings, and just the one rope.<br />
We got to the bottom of South Rib eventually and I started off up a snowy ramp. I'd climbed up just over 30m and there was no gear whatsover. I'd not thought about the rock here being schist at all, so it was very compact, no cracks for nuts and I hadn't brought any pegs, thinking I wouldn't need anything like that with it only being a grade II. I came to a steep section of turfy ledges up a steep wall. It was probably only around 10-12m high, but the turf I'd come across so far wasn't frozen at all and the snow completely unconsolidated. There's no way I wanted to try and go up that steep wall without the turf being frozen enough, as it was just off vertical, and didn't even seem like gradeII territory, and there was no gear to speak of!<br />
So I climbed back down to H, we shortened the rope and moved higher up the left side of the rib to tackle it a little higher up. That was much more friendly and seemed much more like grade II ground! And it seemed more frozen too. The going was still slow though, I was having to sweep away lots of snow for nearly every axe placement and I was constantly on the look out for gear. A bank of cloud and wind was passing through and I wondered how much rope I had left but I couldn't hear any reply from H when I shouted down.<br />
I came across a ledge that actually had a rocky bit with a crack so decided I'd stop there to belay. Got in one good nut, and one pretty crappy one, but it was better than nought. I'd only run out around 40m, which was a bit annoying as time must have been ticking on, having wasted time climbing up and down that first bit earlier. H didn't want to lead as she wasn't sure where the route went. I remember feeling the same when I first started leading in winter, that unless I could see ahead of me where the route went, then I didn't feel confident enough to do it.<br />
The next 2 pitches were standard grade II, lots of easy grade I bits with the odd step off steeper II. The going was getting slow again though, the snow was getting deeper and I think I placed around 3 bits of gear in the whole 120 metres. All the bits I did find were totally bomber though, so that was reassuring. Eventually got to a steepening which looked fun and I reckoned the angle would ease after that and it would be another easy ropes length to the summit. How wrong I was! Tackled the steepening by going rightwards, then cutting back left and then came to a flat and level section barred by a high overhang. Hmmmmm. I was wary of the snow on the flat section, it looked so flat and uniform that it seemed a bit weird and there was a big hole in the middle of it, that I carefully avoided! I peered over the right edge. If I could scrabble down a little, then there was a system of vertical ledges round on the right of the overhang. They were above a massive drop and there was no gear whatsover to protect me. I toyed with trying it, but I'd run out alot of rope with no gear and was faced with a huge fall into space if I came off.<br />
I decided against that option and went over to the left side of the overhang and peered down. I could see that if you climbed down a snowy ramp, then you could access another less steep wall to the left of the overhang. I thought about that for a while then turned back to look at the overhang instead, maybe I was thinking it was harder than it looked. On the left side was a smooth and blank looking vertical wall. On the right was a series of overhangs. There were cracks here and it did look do-able to me by someone that can climb overhanging rock with axes. Now I've climbed plenty bulges and a couple of roofyesque type moves on grade IV ground, but this looked harder than anything I'd ever done before. There was no way I could contemplate that, I'd never even seconded anything that looked like that before!<br />
I thought I would bring H up and explain the situation to her. So I dug around in the snow and managed to unearth a small block to belay from. As I was working, I was planning a way out of our situation. I'm not used to being the more experienced one but it felt good and I felt in total control. I was thinking about trying the option of going left, but the light was starting to turn that way when you just know it's going to start getting dark any minute. I toyed with the idea all the same. I've been caught out by the dark on several occasions and it doesn't bother me, but I've always been finishing the route at the time and can see the actual top, or it's just been walking off in the dark. The cloud had parted briefly beforehand and I could see that the summit was still some way away, around 100m. My main concern was that we were on the wrong route. I couldn't understand it though! There was only that one rib that came down into the corrie on the left hand side so it couldn't be wrong, could it? I was scared of climbing up and being faced with another overhanging section like that, or climbing msyelf into a spot where I couldn't make anymore upward process and where there would be no gear to speak of to make an abseil. Hmmmmm. It was decision time!<br />
If we downclimbed the snowy ramp, then a series of ramps would take us leftwards off the cliff and down into South Gully which didn't look too bad. There had been lots of evidence of the snow sloughing off previously, I'd seen bits and bobs of wind slab around, not much to be too worried about, but the snow was pretty deep and unstable in places. I took note that there had been lots of graupel around, but wasn't too worried about that as it was only on the top layer of snow and not underneath, but it was handy to note it was in the area for the future snow pack.<br />
Once H was up, I explained the situation to her, was tempted to joke that she could lead the next pitch and point her towards the overhang, but decided against it as time was getting on. The going looked easy going down the snowy ramps and H is confident on that sort of ground, having done a lot of ski mountaineering in the Alps, so we just headed down ropeless, which was safer anyway as there was no gear! The light was fading fast and it was getting difficult to judge how steep the ground was below us. We got to a point where it seemed that the ground seemed to drop away lower down and I was wary about going further. It looked more inviting to head into the gully. Still, because of the snow, I was a litte wary, but that seemed the best option in the end. <br />
There was a small wall beside the gully which had a perfect crack in it (where were they on the route itself!)<br />
It was hard to see what the gully was going to be like, whether there would be any steps in it at all. H wanted me to go first so I could find some gear lower down if need be. I told her she wouldn't be very well protected coming down though, but if that it was hard then I would come back up and protect her from above. Luckily it was a doddle. It was barely even grade I and H had been more than happy coming down the steeper ramp above with a rope. So I told her to just untie and slide the rope down and I'd pack it away. We went down seperately though, to keep an eye on each other and before long the angle eased again. We both fell into holes quite a few times and it was so tempting to start bum sliding down the rest of the way. But it was getting pretty dark by this point and I had bad memories of smashing against a big rock when bum sliding in the dark one winter previously. <br />
Once we were out of harms way, we stopped to sort our sacks and I gave D a phone as I knew he'd be worrying as I hadn't texted him at all and it was around 5ish. Getting down to the landrover track was a slog. The path was all verglassed and we had to go on the grassy bits beside the path. We came across footprints going down and then saw a headtorch in the distance, seems we weren't alone on the hill after all. The walk back to the car seemed to take forever and a day and my ankle was starting to seize up a little. I'd always scoffed at people taking bikes into Ben Lui as it never seemed that far to me when I'd been up there before. But last time I was up, we'd walked over the next 2munros along and came down off the hill that way. But the slog along the road took ages and the carpark never seemed to be coming!<br />
We got there eventually though, it was 7.40pm, nearly 12hrs out on the hill for an unfinished grade II, brilliant!Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-84031861937929385272010-10-25T15:17:00.000-07:002010-10-25T15:17:24.510-07:00Pygmy Ridge - Sun 24th OctIt's Saturday and I'm debating whether it's a good idea to try and get out winter climbing. Forecast isn't great, snow showers and winds of 40mph with gusts to 55-60mph. I'm exhausted, not sleeping enough and have so much Uni work to do and half of me just can't be bothered going out in crappy weather.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqTfFKsB6KfCJblmb6PMc00uYA4CXyjL1vS0eE44YSuEsrVYQowVl2ikTIanhRaW_RrC0vGBSRjlZp-nc-JRwQDKLMO1Az2eS9ENPUeaSETzoBmFQ6JPhShaZ3s9N2qZsJIVBxaFpec0/s1600/Perfect+winter+climbing+food.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqTfFKsB6KfCJblmb6PMc00uYA4CXyjL1vS0eE44YSuEsrVYQowVl2ikTIanhRaW_RrC0vGBSRjlZp-nc-JRwQDKLMO1Az2eS9ENPUeaSETzoBmFQ6JPhShaZ3s9N2qZsJIVBxaFpec0/s320/Perfect+winter+climbing+food.jpg" width="236" /></a></div>Start packing my sack though and the enthusiasm builds until the lack of motivation goes and I'm feeling really excited! Winter, snow, spindrift, woohoo, yay!<br />
Drove up to Andy's on Saturday night, we reckoned nowhere much would be snowy other than the Cairngorms, but also that Sneachda might be busy with folk after the dry tooling competition at Glenmore Lodge. Decided on a late start nonetheless and were up at 7.30am which seemed quite blissful after my 6.15am Uni starts at 5.45am starts for a pre Uni run!<br />
Seemed a bit mildish at first but it's cold in the carpark, some snow low down, clag down though so can't see much. We walk in pretty quickly and easily and at the boulder field, hear a<br />
'Hello!'<br />
It's Mel and Fiona, they were doing the comp yesterday and are quite sore, but keen! There are some footprints meandering off in the direction of Mess of Pottage area but no sign of anyone else in the corrie that we can make out. The weather isn't as bad as forecast so all those who wimped out are missing out on cliffs thick with rime and snow, proper winter!<br />
Andy and I are first at Pygmy so we gear up for that and Fiona and Mel gear up for Saturation Point, the harder route to the right. It looks hard! Andy is up the first pitch of Pygmy fairly quickly and I can tell he's done it before as he seems to know where all the axe placements are! I find the first pitch pretty hard. The chimney has a good flake and chockstone but I can't reach up to either of them! I have to torque my axe behind a lower flake, edge my feet up and totally wedge myself into the chimney to stop myself falling out and keep in balance while I finally reach up. Hook that chockstone, then it's thuggy, awkward and strenuous, but just a few moves. The top bit isn't a push over either! We had to clear every placement of snow and I was finding things a bit reachy or balancy.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_c1tZ26wCULUQKT16xhWNwr9sPUsZVFca368_SUMxOH-87BLhFrjbp97-cpu23s_20Wz_ljKicPHfL_URZAZA96xIfxd_6OzWr8oaJ1-OEEBM_MS9jkYW7J1aezf9oUkI-HykkKyCqcw/s1600/Andy+on+1st+pitch+of+Pygym+Ridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_c1tZ26wCULUQKT16xhWNwr9sPUsZVFca368_SUMxOH-87BLhFrjbp97-cpu23s_20Wz_ljKicPHfL_URZAZA96xIfxd_6OzWr8oaJ1-OEEBM_MS9jkYW7J1aezf9oUkI-HykkKyCqcw/s320/Andy+on+1st+pitch+of+Pygym+Ridge.jpg" width="313" /></a>I led the 2nd pitch up a steep chimney/corner. Better holds in this one but I looked down in dismay to see my sling lift off a flake, followed by a nut which I had been sure was bomber! Rats! Hesitate now! Next move feels even more committing without any gear! There's a nice ledge to soften my landing if I fall. Don't think about falling stupid cow! Get some more gear in! Scrape about, unburry another flake, a better one, fling another sling round, only one left now! Try to figure the move. There is a huge detached flake on the right wall but I can't reach my foot or my knee up to it. I need a foot in the chimney on a dubious sloping hold to move up. It goes okay though. Scrape round for another hold and I'm up onto a terrace. Mel is there, belaying Fiona, as their route joined ours on the 2nd pitch. <br />
I'm not sure what to do! I've already led the meat of my pitch but I wanted to reach the pinnacles and carry on a full ropes length, but feel it would be a bit rude to climb through Mel and Fiona. Deliberate for a second or two and decide to belay Andy from there and by the time he has come up, Mel has started off, seconding Fiona up the next pitch. It's blowing a hoolie by this point and the spindrift is blinding! At one point, a lump of ice flies into my mouth and down my throat and has me chocking! Above us, Fiona's ropes have blown off route and poor Mel has to climb up an awkward way, but Andy is impatient enough to get out the cold, climb around her and pull the ropes through. He goes off a different way though, so as not to climb through them and belays me a short way from the top, out of the wind.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gGoa5Yy7NXdELxnqHYJSKADpbj2b1Pjn7ad6e16uCzB9Od1VSbDm1NKXo7iduY-9M6Ddy_zOTuoHBFrkDDj8kQYWuP23Ybx6KmgyGWTNZVPzCOjOUZzesEYqr-SuPr8fTyWJjsi3oQY/s1600/Mel+on+shared+last+pitch+of+Pygmy-Saturation+Point.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gGoa5Yy7NXdELxnqHYJSKADpbj2b1Pjn7ad6e16uCzB9Od1VSbDm1NKXo7iduY-9M6Ddy_zOTuoHBFrkDDj8kQYWuP23Ybx6KmgyGWTNZVPzCOjOUZzesEYqr-SuPr8fTyWJjsi3oQY/s320/Mel+on+shared+last+pitch+of+Pygmy-Saturation+Point.jpg" width="240" /></a>I led up a final groove and over some really easy ground, round Mel and Fiona who are packing their sacks away from the plateau and gave Andy a quick body belay up. We threw everything into our sacks higgeldy piggeldy, then stopped at a sheltered hollow to sort our stuff and take crampons etc off as the snow was still quite soft on top. Then trudged up to point 1141 and stopped again for food and coffee. It was fast going down, then with a brief stop at the start of the road to take off some layers, we were soon down.<br />
What an ace day! Superb getting out and very surprised there wasn't more folk out. Andy reckons we are in for another good winter and I hope he's right.<br />
For all you snowboarders though ;o) too many rocks were poking through the snow I'm afraid. <br />
Looks like all the snow will probably melt in this weeks SW's too.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-43756974419608528982010-10-10T05:17:00.000-07:002010-10-10T05:17:04.112-07:00British Lead Climbing Comp - 9th October '10RB competed in the BLCC's on Saturday. She was a bit nervous about it as she hadn't been training as much as she should have, mainly due to me starting Uni and being too knackered in the evenings to get out doing extra with her on non climbing days. But she'd recently redpointed a 7a+ at AVW which is no easy thing seen as the AVW grades are really stiff due to it being a short wall. So she wasn't going too badly!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLrfNmvemWzUPmK37NE01BZpLms59pMRkG_Y1_eIi-5rH8A6L0fWgGxEq7qBMHA1wH_u_jSdX6AY8LoTBHSQA_YiT0f7Gt0ZJzZ4cgRfWhUzulGK5EsdTHHGMgSh4BH5O3aocebWmiQl8/s1600/RB+on+1st+qualifier.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLrfNmvemWzUPmK37NE01BZpLms59pMRkG_Y1_eIi-5rH8A6L0fWgGxEq7qBMHA1wH_u_jSdX6AY8LoTBHSQA_YiT0f7Gt0ZJzZ4cgRfWhUzulGK5EsdTHHGMgSh4BH5O3aocebWmiQl8/s320/RB+on+1st+qualifier.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>We were up at 6am to get ready for the drive through to Edinburgh and arrived there just after 8, a little tired and bleary eyed. The qualifying routes looked hard! A yellow route up the old comp wall to start and then a pink route up the steep comp wall. When the starting list was put up, RB was disappointed to learn she had to go 2nd, somebody has to go first though. The girl who went 1st fell off and jumped for a hold before falling and then it was RB's go. RB got to the hold above that 1st girl and then stopped, unable to move rightwards. She was at that hold for a good minute, swapping her feet around, trying to get her weight over right. It all ended when she matched her hands on the hold and then tried to move across and fell off.<br />
The next girl up was in the British Team and was amazing to watch, very small, light and so bendy and fluid at climbing, really something! She managed the move that RB fell off just fine, by holding the hold below the one RB had, walking her feet up right and then rocking over, made it look so simple. Unfortunately, now that everybody saw how it was done, it was easy for everyone else to do the same. I knew this didn't bode well for RB. As it was 6 girls got past that point, with one topping out and 2 other girls got to exactly the same point as RB. This made RB in joint 7th place so still in with a chance for the finals if she did well in the 2nd route.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEificDy04HhiJSq99bW0xLUPTILUHSBO67wEPy3xSsJYlYNHEKUhe_q3B1u8q4VhYYHlUjhrlePCBWoZMliPctOag8oOM7H5iYWdr0L5p2BuxK4GLWkmi7DQeW_MB6L7xJy6W0ptfFm9Cs/s1600/RB+cruising+route+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEificDy04HhiJSq99bW0xLUPTILUHSBO67wEPy3xSsJYlYNHEKUhe_q3B1u8q4VhYYHlUjhrlePCBWoZMliPctOag8oOM7H5iYWdr0L5p2BuxK4GLWkmi7DQeW_MB6L7xJy6W0ptfFm9Cs/s320/RB+cruising+route+2.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>Imagine our shock then, when the scores came through and the judge had put RB into 2nd last place. WHAT??? We were both extremely puzzled! How the BLEEP can a judge mistake holding onto a hold for as long as a minute, with holding the hold below it. I was utterly furious! We spoke to the head judge, who then spoke to the 2 judges who were watching the route. Both of them insisted that RB fell off before the girl who went before her. I was stunned! Were they f-ing blind! I ranted at the head judge for ages, what the hell is the point in even having a head judge if he won't do anything about judges who must be utterly blind and can't judge properly! When the judge in question tried to speak to me later, I couldn't even speak to him, I was so angry. I had to walk away as I didn't want to start shouting at him and losing it. I was so annoyed! RB has worked so hard and is so determined to do well that this was extremely unfair on her. I know the judges all volunteer to do what they do and it's great, but if you're going to judge, then bloomin well do it properly! So, they refused to look into it, adamant that they were right and I was wrong. Unfortunately the BMC hadn't been filming the qualifiers as they said they didn't have enough cameras and even if I had filmed her climbing they wouldn't accept that as proof, which is utterly stupid. I hadn't filmed it anyway, and had stopped taking photos at this point as I was too busy watching RB on that final hold, which is why I know what hold she was on as she held onto it for ages!<br />
So, RB was listed to do the 2nd route 8th which was good. She was going to have to climb exceedingly well to get into the final and I feared that with the competition being so stiff she just wouldn't be able to make up for the judges error in putting her into 2nd last place. <br />
As it was, she damn well climbed like the wind! She cruised that 2nd route, getting to a really high point, just 2 moves away from the top before falling. This put her into joint 3rd place with one of the Team members and only 1 girl getting ahead of that, and one girl topping out. Things were getting exciting! We watched as everyone fell off below that point, meaning that RB just scraped through to the finals and no more. As it was, even if the judging had been done efficiently and correctly, RB would still have only got 5th place, possibly getting 4th. I'm unsure as I can't make head nor tail of how they mark these routes. The final position is supposed to be the ranking score of route 1 x the ranking score of route 2, and then you take the square root of that number. But I did that on my calculator and the numbers didn't match up. I know that if there are folk who draw in ranking position then something else happens to the score, but it's not clear at all to me.<br />
In the end though, she got through to the final, so we were both happy again.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLzUUxXsmToj1SVdhHs_t2vr5gejj6vhMvnqeVcpYHBjNgmhZBuWMYZ4SgaaboHSz9sxLWMZJ6ClD3w_ZaG5BlrC1BcM7_X5kKmlApY_aAY-puVHKavtUFm2E5F23F5I40gkwTcDMqFQU/s1600/BLCC+final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLzUUxXsmToj1SVdhHs_t2vr5gejj6vhMvnqeVcpYHBjNgmhZBuWMYZ4SgaaboHSz9sxLWMZJ6ClD3w_ZaG5BlrC1BcM7_X5kKmlApY_aAY-puVHKavtUFm2E5F23F5I40gkwTcDMqFQU/s320/BLCC+final.jpg" width="240" /></a>They were in isolation for some time, as the final routes were put up. RB's final route was the same route as one of the qualifiers for the boys, but holds had been added to the top of the route to take it to the very top of the steep comp wall. The mid section look hard and the top looked desperate! RB's age group was in the 2nd category to come and do the final route, and RB was on first, seen as she had been put into 6th position and not 5th like she should have been. It doesn't really matter in the final as you don't get to watch anyone climb the route before you anyway.<br />
I was so nervous! RB started off really well, had a wee moment a bit higher where she switched feet a bit to get her balance to clip and I thought she might come off. But she moved upwards up towards the point where some holds on the edge of the overhang were round an arete. I was hoping she would remember they were there! She did, and made some really powerful moves to get them! She then was back onto the face and had to heel hook onto holds round the arete. She struggled a little here getting her foot into position. Her 5.10's are slightly baggy at the heel and not the most sensitive for this kind of move but she managed it (really need to get her new shoes pronto as the ones she has are just ever so slightly too big and they have a masive hole so her big toe is pretty much gaping out now!)<br />
Next came a volume and more hooking and then up to the 2nd volume. RB needed to take a big swing across to reach a hold on the volume, only got the edge of it, then managed to quickly adjust and get a proper hold of it. She then swung across and tried to clip, but couldn't. She shifted her weight, tried to clip again, but then her feet cut loose. She got her feet back on, tried to clip again, feet cut loose again. That was it for her. All the cutting loose just tired her arms too much and she was off, taking a wipper into space!<br />
The next girl on came to exactly the same point as RB and fell off but the next girls got the stalactite above and the winner got past the stalactite and nearly topped out, was quite something!<br />
RB was berating herself a little for not being able to clip, but I thought she did amazingly well in her 1st BLCC! Because RB was marked wrongly for the 1st route though, it did mean she got 6th place overall, whereas she really was 5th. Well, we both know she was 5th, so she was happy with that.<br />
And know it's time to get some hard training in for the next comp down in Liverpool on the 27th Nov.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2452398833714147628.post-70837693284206459832010-09-28T13:29:00.000-07:002010-09-28T13:29:33.628-07:00Glen Lyon - 25th/26th SeptD and I went munro bagging this weekend as I was in desperate need to get out into the hills having not been near a hill since our trip up Tower Ridge with RB. Too much wall climbing and cragging is no good for the soul. Besides, I need to start getting hill fit again as winter will shortly be upon us, hurrah, yipee, woohoo! I'm getting excited about snowy hills and frozen turf and crunchy, crispy snow sparkling in the winter sun. Mmm mmm mmm!<br />
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Anyway, back to the weekend! It was the AVW bouldering comp on Friday evening. It was really busy and their were lots of new faces around which was good and not many regulars which was good too as it means I came in 3rd in the Women's Easy category. RB was a star as usual and came 1st place in Juniors Girls. She did the hard comp this year, without using any junior holds, bar on her first problem, before Ian, AVW's manager, reckoned she should do it without the junior holds. I was a bit miffed at this to start off with, as she maybe a good climber, but there are some things that are impossible if you just can't reach. But she did amazingly anyway, coming in first place still and beating the Hard Women (although the usual hard women regulars weren't competing!)<br />
I met up with D afterwards and we drove up Glen Lyon way and parked up in the Schiehallion carpark for the night. We were up bright and early, drove down to Inverar only to be met with a closed gate and 'Stalking taking place today' signs everywhere. I was miffed! I'd gone to do these hills before and had to bail because of crap weather as the guy I was with at the time didn't want to do them in the rain. The notice board said to take alternative routes as suggested, but I didn't notice any suggested alternative routes. We both came to the conclusion that the stalking sign is probably put up at the start of September and just left there all the time, and there probably wasn't even stalking taking place on the 4hills we wanted to go up, as the argocats had been taken in the opposite direction! We decided that we would go up the hills regardless, me a bitty nervous of meeting some irate stalkers with guns, but my rebelllious nature out in force regardless.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS4udt7Wq4SoBN05quQO_dV8e1erx1CCySGuWIOvY8Cht8yh2mrcI50UQdGWbqt_mnSxnsIRNJYaEkKJ4Fs8_sU_ltw3vhNRCJ2BE03z-KKvXYhSgaAMukrxZAKiaZeF3lkV9f0u2ss8/s1600/D+on++Meall+Buidhe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS4udt7Wq4SoBN05quQO_dV8e1erx1CCySGuWIOvY8Cht8yh2mrcI50UQdGWbqt_mnSxnsIRNJYaEkKJ4Fs8_sU_ltw3vhNRCJ2BE03z-KKvXYhSgaAMukrxZAKiaZeF3lkV9f0u2ss8/s320/D+on++Meall+Buidhe.jpg" width="320" /></a>As it was, there wasn't a stalker in sight so it was doubly annoying that there were signs up saying not to go up the hills. And having closed gates and signs verges on a breach on the access code as far as I'm concerned if there isn't any stalking taking place. But the estate is notorious for such nonsense!<br />
I wasn't going that well up these hills. My legs felt heavy and weak and my lower back was aching, muscles spasming every so often, sending wee nervy feelings reminiscant of sciatica into my legs. Bloomin neck! I could feel the muscles around my neck tightning up and knew it was a touch of the arthritis kicking in. I ploughed on regardless. I won't let this stop my enjoying the hills, even though it makes it hard work at times.<br />
Think my most prominent memory of these hills is going a stupid way down off the 3rd hill, ploughing straight down from the summit, down a very steep boulder field. My knee didn't appreciate that in the slightest and was all swollen by the time I got to the bottom.<br />
We were out for around 6 and half hours and then drove along to the dam at the head of Lochan Daimh for the night. It was freezing through the night and we woke to a sheet of ice on the front windscreen which had me hoping that I might see a wincy snow flurry or two. But it wasn't to be, it was much milder on the hill than the previous day, though there were still pockets of ice in puddles. We left the landrover track to head up Meall Buidhe and sheesh it was boggy! We'd reach a bit of a dryer bit and I'd hope that was the bog finished and then it would get worse. I wasn't going well again today, worse than the day before if that's possible! Felt really tired and heavy legged again and a bit woozy. I was getting hot flushes and ended up taking several layers off, it was so warm in the sunshine.<br />
Seemed to go better nearer the top, although the last leg is a broad and flattish ridge so there wasn't really any uphill to speak of. We didn't hang around the summit for too long and it felt weird going back down, like it had seemed pointless going up, just to sit for a minute and not go back down. I'm too used to doing several hills at once and dying to get off the hill at the end of a long day.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_FT3GxBVm7tJ_3wPo67LT010UjK_3pE3AXIviDO3sun82bDXyZZ08sGnUdMDotj4ULjzVRdcA3wYbs7vwd6UNJk__SJDvjKfvfK4N7g5WQeWbl3OZIXCjJsGC1cTgKUuQEcXgeSXHqxQ/s1600/Lochan+Daimh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_FT3GxBVm7tJ_3wPo67LT010UjK_3pE3AXIviDO3sun82bDXyZZ08sGnUdMDotj4ULjzVRdcA3wYbs7vwd6UNJk__SJDvjKfvfK4N7g5WQeWbl3OZIXCjJsGC1cTgKUuQEcXgeSXHqxQ/s320/Lochan+Daimh.jpg" width="320" /></a>Driving home, we came into mobile reception and I received some really gutting news that my Grandfather had passed away that afternoon, probably around the time I was up on the summit. My earliest memory of my Grandfather is of him pottering away in his greenhouse and me being allowed to help repot some plants for him and help him plant seeds into small pots. I can vividly remember him showing me how to compress the soil down into the pots before adding more soil, but not to compress it down too tightly. I can still picture the feeling of the soil between my fingers as a young child and how it made a great impression on me. I am sure that my great love of the outdoors and nature stemmed from such simple pleasures and for that I am eternally grateful.Sonyahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14370412463329339876noreply@blogger.com0