I met up with Andy at Logie Head at 10.30 am on Sunday morning for our first climb together in ages. It had rained on the way there but on a westerly, so the crag was still dry and I was actually climbing in a T-shirt it was so warm!
The tide was coming in and we had to traverse across, timing it right so as not to get our feet wet! There is a VS there called Moray Eel that I hadn't done before but on looking at it, I thought it looked quite hard and Andy said it involved jamming. That immediately put me off so I let him lead it, not bothered at all about the onsight, just happy to be out climbing. I was glad I didn't lead it in the end as it's horrible! It felt really hard at VS, probably the hardest VS I've ever been on. Horrible insecure jams that my hands didn't seem to fit into and on top of that it was really reachy. There is no way in hell that I could have led that so I'm glad I didn't even try. I'd already led the other VS there and I wanted to warm up mentally a bit more before leading a proper VS, so I just got Andy to lead that one too. It's funny, because he reckons that Fallen Star is harder than Moray Eel and he certainly made ME look really easy! But I find Fallen Star quite nice and easy enough, nice incut holds and no jamming!
After a break for something to eat, Andy then led Dave's Dilemma with a bit of a struggle, think it's the only E1 he's led this year. I found it utterly desperate and had to aid up the damn thing with a very tight rope! The very start is a wee scramble but that takes you up to a horribly polished crack. The crack is very small, the crux hold faces the wrong way, so you can lunge over for a hold on the left instead. But then the crack above becomes even more polished and not helped by the greasy rock and I just couldn't hold on without the help of the rope. Once past the crux moves, the rest of the route was easier enough, but I found the climbing dull.
I'd been looking at Spread the Donkey to lead at VS 4c, but after getting so pumped on Poacher and seeing how thin the other VS looked in the middle, I just didn't think I'd have the stamina to hold on and place gear. It's really frustrating, because I find the moves very easy, I just get pumped so quickly because my arms are so tight due to my neck. And it doesn't help that I'm not getting out climbing enough either and am finding my gear placements slower to make.