Thursday, 17 June 2010
OUTDOORS AGAIN AT LAST! - 16th June
We met up with Jon at Kirrie Hill, our weekday venue, around 4.30 and after a bite to eat for tea, I wanted to start of on the 3+. Very, very easy but I wanted to get my head back into gear and get myself used to being back on rock again. I didn't feel wobbly at all which was ace and really, both RB and I should be warming up on the 4's now, not the 3's! Jon led the 6a called Spent and then RB and I both led La Plage, at 4. Now, this is a route, that even though it's an F4, I've never been able to get cleanly 1st go. It's got a really reachy move at the start and I have to do it differently to most folk, but I can never seem to remember the sequence that I have to use! Well this time round I seem to find it easy! My technique is either improving or my head is just improving with the ability to just 'go for it,' maybe a bit of both. Anyway, I managed it cleanly 1st go today and was chuffed as hell. I thought that even if I climbed badly for the rest of the evening, then I'd still be happy to have led this cleanly. RB of course found it a doddle, even if she too can't reach the holds at the start and has to use a different technique.
Instead we went over to the mound. I'd planned to do the 4+ there, but there was already someone on it, so I went for Mushroom Heads at 5+ instead as it's a route I like, especially the wee laybacking moves at the top. RB then did the 6a over the roof called Grassy Knoll and totally cruised it. She had one wee difficulty reaching the clip over the roof and was having to really, really stretch up for it, but then realised after that if she had just taken another step or two up, there was a nice juggy hold to clip from. She got her leg up high as she does and flew over the roof like it was a stroll in the park. Onsighting a 6a on her 1st day back, something that took weeks for her to work up to last summer.
Jon then led the 6a called Another Green World and as I needed to go and find a quiet bush somewhere, RB and I swapped goes and she led the 6a+ called Spirits Drifting and I was back in time for her starting it off. She had tried this on toprope last summer but just couldn't do the crux moves at the start. This year it was little trouble for her however and after a few grunts she was past it and over the overlap and up to the top. Next, I led the 5+ called Mound Over Matter which goes over the big roof on jugs. I'd watched a big hold break off it when some other guys were climbing it and when I got up to the roof and saw that the crucial crux jug was loose, then it got quite exciting! Hmmmm. The guys below shouted that they had used the loose hold and it had held fine, but I was dubious. I can't remember how, but I managed to clip over the roof so I could commit to the loose hold without a big fall if it came off. I wobbled the hold up and down a few times and it did seem to be wedged in place so I just went for it. It held fine and I managed to reach the next jug up, was moving quickly, can remember throwing an Egyptian move in there somewhere to get over the roof and I was up and over. Apart from a wee thin move to the lower off, the rest is easy. Felt really chuffed to have led this cleanly though, even though I'd onsighted it last year, it still felt good to do. I was really enjoying being back out climbing again and next time I'll push back onto the 6a's and might even try a 6a+.
It was a fab session for both of us, and I was so happy to be back outside and actually enjoying it again, it makes me dream of mountain routes and warm, sunny rock.