PITLOCHRY 10K - 27th Sept '09

A few weeks ago Mel asked if I wanted to do the Pitlochry 10k with her.   Hmmmm, I wasn't *that* keen on the idea as I'm not really into racing that much, bar adventure/trail racing but I knew she was keen to have something to train for, for motivational reasons, so I decided I'd go for it.  I was a bit nervous about how I'd cope in a race situation, not having done much road running before.  But, over the course of the summer I'd done a few road runs and had done a 10k road run out of curiosity to see if my back could cope with it.  The old back seemed to manage just fine, and so that was that, I was spending the remaining few weeks training on the roads rather than my favoured off road circuits.
I'd been out running a lot at the start of the summer, around 4x a week.  But just 5k runs, with the odd 10k run thrown in now and again, but once the school summer holiday's started, my running stopped and training only began in earnest 4 weeks ago.
1st week I made the mistake of setting off on a 4mile run way too fast.  I'd downloaded a load of music onto RB's old Ipod which I commandeered after she got a new one and was looking forward to having music to listen to whilst I ran.  First track was a fast one though, and of course I was running to the tempo of the music, so by the time I'd ran 3/4 of a mile my right shin was in so much pain that I had to turn about and walk back.  I walked for a while, then tried to run again, but no good.  Once I hit the forest track by the river I tried to run again and it felt fine, so decided to stick to off road for that session, having no more troubles.
2nd week I decided I'd throw in some fartlek training over a distance of 10km to see how fast a time I could get.  Bad idea!  I burnt out really quickly going too fast too soon, and only managed the first 5k in 26 minutes as I had to slow down near the end.  By then, I felt so heavy and wasted that I had to walk some of the way back and that's the first time I've ever had to walk during a run due to being too tired!
On my Thursday session, Mel couldn't make it as she was stuck in a traffic jam, so I decided to go out during the evening on my own anyway and ran a distance of 12km, and it was the most pleasurable run I'd done in ages.  I drifted along slowly, listening to my ipod, watching buzzards eye up distant prey in the fields and the sheep grazing peacefully in the fields, rosehips growing and evoking memories of itchy coos!
The 3rd week involved interval training on the Monday, where I covered 5k in a time of 22.5 mins, really chuffed with that time!  But there's no way in hell I can run like that over 10km!  I was getting into it so much that I decided to go for another 10k road run on Tuesday, managing it in 54minutes.  Then Mel managed our Thurs eve session and I ran another what I believe to be just over 11km.  Uh oh, trouble brewing!
I know you are supposed to up your mileage when running at a maximum of 10% a week, so if I'd been running 15km a week, then this week I should have ran 17km max.  But I didn't, I ran 26km that week, possibly more.  And to make matters worse, I had a brand new pair of running shoes on and had been advised to break them in gently.  But when did I ever listen to advice!?
So, it's Friday and my knee hurts a little from Thursday's run.  An evening's bouldering session does little to help, with me falling off just about every problem I try, my arms weak and ineffective!  As stated last week, I'd planned to run up a Corbett on the way to Andy's, but there's no way that was happening.  The munros I did last weekend didn't seem to irritate my knee too much the days after, so I went for a slow 5k jog the Tuesday before the race just to make sure my knee was up for it.  
It was ace!  Tight and sore to start off, and loosened off after 1km with no more problems.  Ice and stretch after and I reckon I can do this race on Sunday as long as I don't push myself    I'm very tempted to go for another run on Thursday, but I manage to restrain myself.
Sunday looms, and the night before I am so nervous that I'm having nightmares about some guy trying to trip me up during the race and stab me!  Melanie is just as bad, and she has butterflies in her guts, we both feel like,  
'aaaaaaarg, what the heck are we doing here, look at all these fit people!'
There are just over 200 competitors, and most look like club runners bar the odd punters like us!  They are using micro chips that we tie to our trainers, so it doesn't matter if you start at the front or the back, the timer will clock you when you run over the mat it's connected too, and will start timing you from that moment.  Mel and I had agreed that we'd run together over the 1st couple of kilometres, so we wouldn't push off too fast and burn out.  And oh I did try!  Maybe for the 1st 1/3 to 1/2 km, but even running slowly, I was making gains and having to slow more and turn to make sure Mel was keeping with me.  I couldn't keep it up for very long, and I felt guilty for about a nano second, before thinking feck it, I'm outta here!  
'I'm pushing on,' I shout.  Ipod on, and I'm off!
I lose count of the amount of people I overtake, but I'm buzzing, this is ace!  Fist hill, slow down the pace, don't knacker yourself, you know you can't go fast up hills.  Flat ground, pick up pace, wee downhill, let off the brakes and I'm off again, over taking more people.  There's the 3km mark, there's the 4km mark.  
'Oh, why has that person turned back?'
'NO WAY!!!  They havn't turned back, they've turned over the bridge at 5km, ran through the woods, ran over the road bridge and are on their home leg.  Jesus!!  That's bloody fast!  I'm gobsmacked, and a few of us cheer out in support, amazing!
Ah, there is the turning point, I'm feeling good.  Over take more folk on the down hill here.  Some uphills through the woods, keep going, keep going.  Aaaaarg, stairs!!!  Sod it, take a deep breathe, fight the pain and I bound up the stairs 2 at a time, over taking another 2 people, hurrah!   Water stop on the bridge.  Ugh, I can't run and drink, stop for a gulp, don't wanna stop!  Pour water down my legs, pour water down my arms and throw some over my head.  Another gulp, throw the bottle in one of the big bags, over take another person, and I'm on the home run.  God, I'm hurting now!   My shoulder is killing me!  It feels like it's on fire, painkillers before the race don't deal with the burning nerve pain that's searing me.  Ignore it, ignore it, push on, the pain will pass if you don't let it beat you down.
The first person of the race over takes me.  A bloke in red, zooming past, so fast he's almost sprinting.  Wow, he kept that in reserve!  There's a couple of Perth Road Runners that over take me on the 1st hill.  Back on the flat and I manage to regain my place in front.  Not by much though, then they are past me again.  Pick it up and I pass them.  This goes on 4 times, until I reach a killer of a hill past a bridge over the road and the couple over take me again.  I don't manage to catch them up this time.  This hill is a killer so late in the day!  Keep going though, this must be the last hill!  I manage to over take another girl who had been ahead of me since the road bridge over the river.  The hill must have killed her too! 
There is the sign now for 9km.  One more to go, yes!   And it's all flat now.  A bit of confusing heading down one of the side streets.  There is a barricade and I'm directed to the right side of it.  Aaaaaaarg, which way is right, I'm shouting down the warden, 
'which way, which way?!'
He's shouting, ' Right, RIGHT!!'
'Aaaaaarg, I don't know which way is right!' as I run to the left!
The warden uses his arms to point rightwards, and I'm sorted.
Past the railway station, there is a short and steep downhill, let off the brakes, yeehah!  Then there is one last hill, but it's ace because a crowd has gathered up there and they are all cheering away, mental!  A quick dash and I'm over the finishing matt.  Folk are trying to hand me cups of juice and bottles of water but I brush them off, I need to sit down!  Catch my breath, then grab a bottle and someone comes over to remove my chip.  Service or what!  
I have a good few swigs, then go back down the course to find Mel.  I spot her coming down after the bit where I got confused, give her my water and try to urge her on, not far too go!  She looks as red in the face as I feel but she's made it, hurrah!
Back to the car to get changed, then it's off to the village hall for tea, rolls and cake, yum!   The fastest person got 31 minutes, crazy!
I had really wanted to get 50 minutes but there was no way that was happening with the little training I did and Mel had been keen to get a sub hour, but she did really well to manage to complete the course as she got even less training than I did!
So, my time was 53 minutes and 19 seconds (which is a minute faster than my best 10k that I'd done of late) and I came in 11th in my category of Senior Women.  Err, there were only actually 33 senior women that completed the race (more seemed to either enter and not finish, or their names were on the list but they didn't enter)  But even still that puts me in the at the back of the top third and I'm mega chuffed with that!  It sounds really positive thinking on it like that.  There were 180 something competitors and I came 119th, and that doesn't sound as impressive :oD   Even still, it's much, much better than I've done in my previous races.
My knee coped well, but did swell up again that evening, with stabbing pains on the medial aspect.  But those have gone, the swelling has subsided some and it's back to a deep, dull ache that stops me from bending or kneeling down.   Boy, I'm looking forward to a good massage on Wednesday!
A couple of photos will follow shortly, once I figure out where the software is for my mobile phone camera.

KNOCKY KNEES IN KNOYDART - 20th Sept '09

Andy and I decided to have a fairly chilled weekend and do some hillwalking instead of climbing.  Must say, I was really looking forward to it.  No stress of abseils, chossy gully descents, cold and wet climbing, fear creeping in, no mental stress whatsoever, fab!
Andy had only 12 munros to do, to complete his 4th round of the Munros, and I was on 99, so keen to get my number 100.   I havn't done any of the ones Andy has left to do, bar Ben Starav, so was happy to go to the edge of Knoydart, at the head of Loch Arkaig, to upper Glen Dessary and bag Sgurr nan Coireachan, Garbh Chioch Mhor and Sgurr na Ciche, and also possibly Sgurr Mor if we were going well.
My only concern was my knee.  After running over 10km on Thursday evening, my knee had swollen up a little, and probably wasn't helped by going bouldering on the Friday and falling lots.   I'd planned to run up one the Corbetts near the Lecht on Saturday, on the way up to Andy's but my knee was by that point, pretty tender and puffy and I didn't think bounding down hill would help matters, and not even sure if I could have bounded anyway!
Forecast was for showers on Sunday.  Typical!  The rest of Scotland looked rain free, so why the hell were we going to one of the wettest places in Scotland?  The day dawned windier than expected, and we could see there had been rain through the night in the West. 
The road up to and past Loch Arkaig is horrific.  An extremely narrow and twisty track that bends and winds up and down and left and right, until you feel utterly nauseous.  Luckily, Andy was feeling it too, so he wasn't zooming along.  Actually, his driving was very good all the way there, and he was making a big effort not to go too fast round the bends, so it was much more relaxing.
We'd packed the bikes the night before, so we could cycle up to the head of Glen Dessary, to make the walk shorter.  Jeeze I was finding it hard work!  I couldn't work the gears on Andy's bike so I was having to peddle furiously, and I just couldn't manage the up hill bits.  Andy had a look at the gears and managed to put it into a higher gear for me, and it was loads better after that.  Before long we were dumping the bikes and slogging along what has to be the most boggy path I've ever encountered.  We'd decided to bag Sgurr na Ciche first, and the walk along to where you cut up to a col between the Sgurr na Ciche and it's neighbour, seemed to be never ending, and involved lots of leaping about to avoid bogs and pools of water.  At last though, we were trudging up hill, no complaints from my knee, until we had to traverse downwards when I realised that going downhill was going to be a snag.  My knee would only bend back so far before it went, 'ooooh don't do that!'
The walk up to the Col involved going up a Gully, reminiscant of the approach to White Gyll in the Lakes the weekend before.  I wasn't too sure what to make of Knoydart to be honest.   It's supposed to be a wilderness area, and we were far from a road, and it was pretty when the light shone on the hills in a certain way.  But I just didn't get that wow factor that I do when I'm up further North West, and it all seemed a little bleak.  But I think the drizzling rain and cloud didn't help.
By the time we'd bagged the first peak, the cloud and rain had moved in, and was there to stay for pretty much the remainder of the day.  We didn't get too many showers Andy commented, just one that lasted all day! 
The ridge from Garbh Chioch Mhor to Sgurr nan Coireachan seemed to be never ending even though according to the map it was only around 2km before you hit a col.  But it was 2k of up and downing and big steps that my knee wasn't too keen on, and the going was slow.  By the time we were going up to the last summit, my energy was flagging and it was a relief to finally get to the top, even though I had the painful job of getting back down again!  By this point, the wind had picked up and at times there were gusts of 60mph, which would drive the rain into my eyes so I struggled to see, and would blow my hood down, with the chin bit of my hood covering my mouth and making me feel like I was suffocating in a layer of gore tex!
My knee tweaked on a good few occasions when I bent it back too far, but I necked a painkiller and it eased off somewhat by the time we were half way down.  The incline eased off by then too, and Andy had been a darling.  It must have been very frustrating for him, who normally moves fast downhill to have to keep stopping and waiting for me, but I could see him turn round every so often to make sure I was okay. 
Once down though, it seemed to me to take forever to get back to the bikes, I hadn't remembered this section being so long on the way in!  I'm not sure what was best in the end?  To do the munros last after the long walk in, and being a bit tired by the last one, or to do the munros first, and then have a soul destroying slog along the boggy glen on the way out.   Considering that final section felt tiresome, then the way we did it was probably the best way.
With relief we'd reached the bikes and rewarded ourselves with a chocolate break.  I felt a bit more relaxed with the bike on the way out, and was managing to freewheel some of the less steep bits.  Now the gears were sorted, I could cycle on the flat very easily, and manage the slight uphills.  Think I only got off 2x to push a wee steeper uphill.   It was mostly flat and downhill though, so was absolutely ace to cruise along effortlessly at the end of a long day and it was pure pleasure to get back to the car and warm, dry clothes.

SUNNY LAKES VS'S - 12th/13th Sept '09

About a week ago, I received an email from one of my winter climbing partners, Matt Griffin  http://www.sandstonemassiv.blogspot.com/   asking if Andy and I fancied a weekend down in the Lakes for his 30th birthday climbing do.   We were quite keen as we'd talked about going to the Lakes at some point over the summer, so this seemed a good a time as any.   We'd had fingers crossed for good weather, what with the Lakes being on of the wettest places in Britain and we were rewarded by the best weekend of sunshine that we've seen for over a month.
RB was going to come down too, but woke up on Friday morning with the beginnings of a head cold.  Her Dad was pretty busy with stuff over the weekend, so it didn't look too much like RB was going to get a rest down there, so we came close to cancelling our trip.  She perked up by later in the afternoon though, so we figured that if she dosed up on Paracetemol she would be fit enough, and if not then at least Andy could climb with the others if RB was too weak to climb.

The drive down was as terrifying as I was expecting it to be, what with Andy's driving on all the narrow, windy country roads, especially seen as it was dark by the time we arrived in the Lakes.  I swore that if we were ever going any place like this again, then I would be driving!   Mentioning that RB suffered from travel sickness and might puke up, seemed to make him slow down the speed on the corners a bit though.

We were dossing at Ed's house and arrived there, after a slight detour (ie we got lost!) to find a gorgeous old farmouse that Ed has done up himself.  It was lovely, low ceilings and raftered roofs and best of all a huge barn complete with climbing wall and a special problem that involved having to sit and swing in a hanging chair, try to reach a trapese type bar that was hanging from the ceiling.  Then from the bar, you had to reach a rope swing and from the rope swing, latch a rounded volume on the climbing wall.  Nobody has ever managed to complete the problem and I think only Dave Birkett has managed to get to the rope swing.  We spent around half an hour playing on it, and never once managed to leave the hanging seat!

We met Matt at the Old Dungeon Gill carpark at 8.30am, which I thought was quite late, but actually seems early for these southerners, as we were practically first up to Gimmer Crag.  Oh what a slog up though!   We should have gone directly up the hill, but instead took a detour underneath Raven's crag and slogged up the side to traverse under Gimmer, and then had to walk down and round to find the route we wanted to do.   I'd heard that the route called The Crack was a fantastic VS, and pictures of it on UK Climbing.com had certainly inspired.  We geared up quickly, to beat other folk who were now starting to arrive.  Andy led the 1st pitch, which involved a jamming crack (which was actually really nice) and then a tricky traverse leftwards and onto a ledge.  I led the 2nd pitch and gave myself a fright when my foot slipped whilst trying to do the 'Mantelshelf' move.  I'm not sure what happened, but I was think I was overstretched to reach a wee side pull in a horizontal crack and as I was trying to get my foot up, my other foot slipped.  I slithered down the rock, giving a squeal and then managing to grip onto a good handhold to prevent myself from falling completely.  Phew, that was a close shave!  I needed a moment to calm myself down, talk myself out of backing off and then carry on with the route.  I made the move and then came to a standstill at a powerfull move over a bulge.  Surprise, surprise, I couldn't reach!  I had to make a blind pop for a hold, praying that it was good, which it thankfully was.   I set up belay in the wrong place however, and held things up for the party below us which ended up with Andy leading off on the 3rd pitch, and the couple below us arrving at our stance with nowhere to stand.  So the girl who was to lead on, had to hang around and wait.  RB sussed the crux quickly and seem to fly up, whilst I struggled to trust my feet on a small and polished hold, from having slipped earlier.  The rest of the last pitch was fantastic climbing, really sustained and thoughtfull and never letting up in it's technicalities.

Andy led North West Arete after that, which I didn't like all that much.  The arete itself was nice, but the bit below was really scrappy I thought.  We ab'd down after that route, and by then I couldn't be bothered climbing anymore, so sat and took pics of Andy and RB climb a VS called Asterix.  I regretted not climbing it after, as it did look very good.

We then zoomed straight down the hillside, dashed back to Ed's to get Matt's birthday present, then back to the ODG for a bar meal and a quick drink.  The bar was too busy and noisy and antisocial me couldn't handle the noise, so we headed back down to Ed's for a couple of glasses of red, then bed.

Sunday saw us meet the guys at the Stickle Barn carpark to walk up to White Gyll.  The guide had the walk in as a slog up the Gyll, taking aprox 851 steps, RB counted 857.  We passed Slip Knot at VS and I thought it looked amazing, but Andy was keen to do either Haste Not or Gordian Knot, so we carried on up the hill.  Matt and Co, were on Gordian Knot, and we discovered that Haste Not had a serious traverse on it, not a good idea for 2 seconds.   A bit of an argument ensued, with Andy wanting to wait till the guys had finished Gordian Knot and me wanting to do something quick and easy whilst we waited.   Andy said he was quite sore, so then I thought we should wait, but Andy had changed his mind and thought we should climb.  Aaaarrgggg!!  Much heated discussion followed, ending up with us agreeing to do a Severe called Slab 2.   Andy ran the 1st 2 pitches together and I was supposed to lead the next pitch.  I hadn't enjoyed the previous pitches though, and didn't like the look of the next pitch, so we had to faff with the ropes to organise things so Andy could lead the rest of the route, oooops!  In retrospect, we should have really gone back down to do Slip Knot and just do that route, as by the time we finished the Severe, slipped and slided down the horrible scree gully descent, had something to eat and wait for Matt to finish the crux on Gordian, time was getting on.

RB was determined to lead the 1st pitch of Gordian however, and she totally cruised it!  It was solid VS, and pretty awkward and run out in places, and pretty damn impressive for her 2nd ever VS lead!   I wasn't too happy with her belay set up however.  One sling was bommer, but I thought the other sling she'd placed was pretty marginal, so bunged in a cam as a back up.  Andy led off on the crux pitch, which traversed easily rightwards to a bulge, and then up a steep crack.  Owen shouted up that you could use the arete at the side of the bulge, but RB went across too early, and had to use some foot trickery to get over the bulge. 
'I'm not sure I did that properly,' she said, much to the amusement of the folk below who said she seemed to cruise it effortlessly!  I ended up bridging over the bulge and found it fairly easy, but strenous once you figured the moves.   The crack above was amazing!  Really technical climbing and just the sort of thing I love.
I led the last pitch, first trying to go up a steep wall too far to the right, but then moving left and finding jugs.  Pumpy to place gear, but woohoo, steep and jugtastic!  The top bit was easy but flowed really nicely and in no time at all, we'd found the much easier descent down the Easy Rake.  Flew back down to the car, back to Ed's, then the long drive home.  I was far too nervous of Andy's driving to manage to sleep in the car, but RB crashed out immediately, back to feeling pretty rough with her cold.

Recovering from whiplash - 5/6th Sept '09

At 36 years old, with a good enough diet (ok, I do like crisps and chocolate as much as the next woman, but I aint no pig,)  daily exercise including running, badminton, pilates, climbing, hillwalking blah blah, the ability to slog through deep snow for hours on end and drag myself up frozen cliff faces, or hang off rock with my bare hands, no smoking, like a glass of wine once in a blue moon, well with all that you'd think I'd be a living testament to a physically fit, shaped like a goddess, lean mean rock crankin machine (er)

Ho, ho, ho!  No chance!  Why oh why is it, that with all the above I can still manage to be a stone overweight with a body that's falling to pieces?
Before I started climbing, I had a fondness for a 30 a day fag habit (rollie up's if you don't mind) binge drinking extrordenaire and liked to indulge in the odd bout of illegal substance abuse.  I wasn't as fit as a fiddle (I could probably run around 30 seconds before having a heart attack) but I was a good weight and I'd never had an injury in my life, bar a broken pinkie when I was a young girl due to catching it on a crack in a playground slide as I was sliding down.

So, why is it, in the last 5 years I've suffered from a broken arm,  De Quervain's Tendonitis, a torn Interosseus muscle, a sprained ankle which after a year still gives me grief, a ruptured disc in the L5/S1 area of my lumbar spine which is now 100% dessicated and with degeneration in the level above, bouts of Lateral Epicondylitis on both elbows, possible C Spine problems leading to the former elbow problems, numb hands and tricep pain and just last week, suffering from another bout of whiplash?

Hmmmm, is this part and parcel of growing older?  But I'm only 36 for fuck's sake! Or do I have to accept that my body is just weak and not very capable of the demands that I ask of it?  How much more punishment do I have to put myself through to keep my body in a fit enought state to enable me to put it through the things I do?
I could understand if I was a bouldering and climbing demon, but c'mon eh!  I only lead VS on a good day and my feeble attempts at bouldering have never taken me past the V3 level and that was only during an extended bout of non injury.

Anyway, all this wittering about injuries is down to me falling badly whilst bouldering last Wednesday.  Down at
  http://www.averticalworld.co.uk 

there is a V2 problem in the bouldering cave that goes up over a roof and then across the ceiling.  There is a pyramid shaped volume which hangs down from the ceiling and it was at this point where I was coming undone.  You have to cut loose with your feet, then monkey to the next hold.  I was attempting to get my body to swing in the direction of the next hold (it really wants to swing the opposite way due to where the holds are set) and then you have to reach under under and behind yourself which twists your body round in the correct direction.   Idiot that I am though, I reached through with the wrong hand, this twisted me round in completely the wrong direction and the momentum of the swing and twist had me come flying off backwards, with the nano second thought that I was going to crash into the wall behind me, landing awkwardly on my hands and knees with my head flung giving a good bounce on my neck!  Thud!  I think the word 'UUGGHH!' was heard to escape my mouth.

No problem though, I carried on bouldering that evening, still failing to do that problem, regardless of doing it the correct way!  My neck did start aching a little later in the evening, and when I woke up at 5 in the  morning, it was a poker straight rod of agony.  I couldn't seem to bend it in any direction and taking Dehydricodeine and Raboxin didn't seem to touch it.   No more sleep was had that day, and it was a weary woman that took RB to school the next morning, and that whole day was a blur of pain and painkillers which didn't seem to work.  I'd rememebered when I hurt my neck after falling off the slackline.  That was much better by the next day and even though it felt worse this time, I was thinking I'd be fine the next day also.  Uh uh!  Next day I woke up still unable to move my neck much, after another night of very little sleep, too scared to lie in certain positions incase I hurt it more, it was hard to relax, regardless of the pain!  As the morning went on, it did ease a little and I began to wonder whether I'd be able to climb some easy stuff at the wall on toprope.  Bouldering was out of the question, I cringed at the thought!  And I'd already dismissed going for a run when the idea popped into my head.  I was concerned though, a quick google of whiplash told me that I should really be getting my neck checked out.  So, after much pondering and a phone call to NHS24, I tootled off to my local Minor Injuried Unit where the duty nurse had me panicking my mention of cervical fractures, ambulances and spinal boards!  Aaaarg, what the fuck!?  I was concerned that I might have 'popped' a disc, no way I've broken my neck, daft cow!   I was made to lie down and not move (tedious to say the least and once she'd left the room, I got myself to a more comfy position)   Thankfully, my GP who was on duty, had sense enough to comment that I'd been walking about for the past 2 days so sitting up wasn't going to kill me!   A quick diagnosis of whiplash that should be back to normal in a few weeks (he reckoned the C spine was okay seen as my numbness was no worse than before) left me feeling confident that a bout at the wall would do no harm, hurrah!

So, I managed a few easy routes on toprope with no problems and decided that I should be okay to climb with Andy at the weekend.  I didn't feel confident to lead though.  The range of motion in my neck felt 99% restored to it's still self, but deep inside still a weird feeling that if I fell again, my neck would snap off.  And it still burnt a fair bit.  Forecast was a bit iffy, so we decided to head across to Kirrie for a few routes.  Belaying was going to be a bit of an issue and I'd have to feel more with the rope than looking up too much.  Was very hard to do as it just feels so wrong not to look up and watch what the leader is doing!  Managed to belay around 3 routes before it got pretty sore and I had to keep looking down, and also managed to lead an easy route that I'd done a billion times before and couldn't resist toproping a 6a that I'd never done.

Sunday, we went to Clova which was still a bit damp in places.  Andy led Proud Corner, which has to be one of the best single pitch VS's in Scotland.  I'd romped up it at the start of the year, but found the crux quite reachy this time round, and seemed to get my hands muddled somewhat.  Couldn't remember it being that hard last time!   Andy then led Cauldron Crack but I didn't want to second it (though I was sorely tempted!)  This posed a few problems for gear removal when Andy ab'd back down, as it's mega overhanging.  But it's a route that I love the look at and it's one of the nicest HVS's I've seen and I want to save it for an onsight.

We then decided to take a look at the Doonie crags as I'd never actually climbed there before.  Bad mistake!  My feet got wet on approach, after taking a path through bracken which quickly turned into bog.  Then the route we'd decided on was wet on the first pitch and had bushes, trees and massive clumps of dripping wet grass on it.  Nice!  How the hell did this route manage to get two stars!?  After much deliberation Andy decided that it would be a shame not to climb it as he felt obliged to after walking up.  Bloody great!  It looked utterly minging to me and I don't see the point in climbing ming just because you find yourself standing underneath it.  But I knew Andy would strop if I refused, so I decided to suffer.  He slowly eased himself through the slime on the first 10 feet, then picked his way through the vegetation, before coming to a standstill and admitting that it was pretty disgusting and then saying the sweetest words I'd heard him say all weekend.

'I'm just going to climb to the tree then ab off.'

YES!  I didn't particularly care that the climbing above the tree might be nice (still looked wet to me, though Andy reckoned you could manage it without getting onto the wet stuff.  I wasn't convinced by that)   It wasn't worth climbing though waterfalls, mud, slime, brambles and bushes to get to what might be damp climbing above.  Not for me anyway and I was so happy that Andy knew I wouldn't be enamoured by it.  By the time Andy ab'd down it had started raining, so it was good call to come down anyway.  Stuff being on a wet 5a crux, after climbing the most minging pitch of vegetated awfulness!

Roll on next weekend and the Lakes, yippee!

CLIMB AND RUN - 28/29th August '09

I'd promised to climb with Mel this weekend seen as I'd been jetting off loads with Andy of late and hadn't climbed with Mel since we climbed together at Clova ages ago.  I was looking forward to a weekend of relaxing climbing and not being dragged up anything hard, loose or wet and possibly pushing it a little if my arms didn't protest too much.
The forecast was somewhat dubious, but the East coast definitely looked like the better option.  I'd thought of Meikle Partans as I know Mel hadn't been and was keen to check it out, but after Friday's gales I was extremely hesitant to go up there and find that the sea was too choppy and then have me bottle out of climbing.
I hadn't been to Traprain Law for a few years and I remember it being a crag with a pleasant outlook and loads of easy routes, but with also plenty of VS's to go at and Mel was happy to check it out, never having been before.

We arrived before midday, to winds gusting at around 30mph and grey clouds looming!  Great! I felt bad for suggesting the place, especially seen as it had been warm and sunny back home.  But hey ho, we were here now so had to make the most of it.  I offered the first lead to Mel, after we'd had a wander round the bottom of the crags checking out all the routes.  Some of the VS's looked really intimidating and I wasn't sure about them at all!  Although one of the HVS's over a roof looked interesting, and it started next to a Severe which I liked the look of, so could check it out.
Mel started off on Great Corner, a ** Severe and took a wee moment to figure out the start, then flew up the rest, being constantly buffeted by the strong wind!  Even after watching Mel doing the start, I still found it difficult.  Tiny crimps and horribly polished edges for your feet with a really wide step across and up.  A tricky move around a roof, then plain sailing to the top. 

Now the clouds were really looming, dark and grey and just as we descended to our sacks there were a few drops of rain.  Sod anymore climbing in this cold wind and that polish was going to be horrific when wet!  Mel suggested heading back over Edinburgh way to Rosyth and I didn't take much persuading, but we'd both like to go back some time.
Rosyth was much more sheltered and I started off on a short and sweet Severe called Drizzle.  It was a 1/2 move wonder really, but the easier climbing above, flowed really nicely.  If only the route hadn't been longer!  We were both eyeing up the HVS called The Waullie that someone had recommended as a good first HVS, but there was no way I was trying it today, not with my poor climbing performance and weak and injured arms of late.  After playing about on the starting moves, Mel decided to lead a VS instead.  I'd wanted to lead Heathy for ages, but Mel was keen to do it too, so I was happy to lose the onsight (very happy in retrospect as it was bloody hard!)  This was after Mel soloed a V.Diff called Andy's Route.  There were a couple of other girls climbing in the quarry, one of which had been perplexed by the start of A.Route, and then asked how I'd found the Severe and jokingly asked if we could do the V.Diff so she could see how it was done.  We both had a play about on it, then Mel moved up quite high, agreeing it was tricky for the grade and decided to go all the way up, rather than try to downclimb the tricky move.  I jokingly commented that, that was her route done, so it was my turn now!
Even getting off the ground on Heathy is tricky.  I can't exactly remember what I did, but it involved jamming I'm sure, wide bridging and much grunting.  Mel did the start in far better style that I did, making it seem quite easy!  The next section was over a block where knees were used by Mel, but I somehow managed to do differently and mantle up quite easily.  Then came the crux.........
'oh no,' said Mel, 'I don't like jamming!'
(Rats!  Neither do I!)
'It will be good practise for you then,' I shouted up.
I could tell she found it tricky and was routing for her, especially when a few drops of rain started splashing down.  She'd just gotten past the crux when the heavens opened and it started raining pretty heavily.  Mel went off route a bit at the top, and ended up having to hang off the lip of and overhang and edge her way round and back on route to the top, letting out a massive woop when she got to the top!  I shouted out that the rock was too wet, and I would meet her at the top and ab down for the gear.  Just as I untied, the rain stopped and I changed my mind.  The bottom ledge was still soaking wet, but inside the cracks should hopefully be ok. 

I really struggled at the crux.  I had one hand jammed in for sure and was trying to find a good spot in the crack to jam my other hand, but a wedged in cam seemed in the way.  With my legs splayed out in a very wide bridging position, and no footholds low down enough that I could see, with the prospect of my hand slipping out it's jam (it wasn't a brilliant jam!) I shamelessly pulled on the sling of the jammed crack to pull myself up!  It wasn't over yet though, a couple of wedged in, grunty and awkward moves saw me past the crux.  Mel said later that she'd jammed her foot in the crack, rather than bridge at that point where the cam was.  I hadn't even thought to jam my foot there, having tried a foot jam lower down and deciding it didn't feel right.   But in retrospect, if you're not bridged out widely, you can reach up further also, so I might have found a better hand jam in that position.  Mel said that with her foot jammed in, her knee felt locked in also, and she felt almost secure enough that she could have freed her hands up!  The top bit was easy enough when you go the right way, and just one wee awkward reach and that was it done.
There was a VS next door called Grenville that I liked the look of, but across the other side of Rosyth we could see bands of rain falling from the clouds.   Hmmmmm........enough time for me to get up that VS?  I didn't think I'd be able to zoom up with any speed, seen as I'd found Heathy so tricky.  Aaarg, what to do, what to do, what to do!  In the end, I decided to leave it for better weather, as the crux was at the top and I didn't want to get caught on it in heavy rain.
I did a Severe called CND instead which was pretty goey and hard for Severe at the start!  Felt quite bouldery and there was no gear, but Mel spotted me until I was in a good position on a small ledge.  The gear was fantastic after that fairly bold start.  Every nut I got in was a sinker!  It was a pleasant enough route, but not worth ** stars.
We both decided on quickly soloing something easy before the rain came down.  Too late!  Mel was half way up the V.Diff called Sickle (my first every lead) when the rain started, and I was just starting a V.Diff called Jack's Route.  The rain got heavier, the rock got wetter and at the crux I had to swap feet on a small hold and then move up to a slopey ledge, which felt a bit disconcerting in the wet and high up enough to break an ankle if I slipped off.  But up I went, enjoying the freedom of movement upwards with no hindrance of rope or gear.  Nice!

Mel asked if I wanted to do a hill run the next day.  I had been toying with the same idea, but hadn't thought Mel would be up for running up hill!  So, great minds eh?  I suggested we run up Morrone, just outside Braemar as it was the only Corbett I had left to do in that area.  In retropsect it might have been nice running up Clach na Beinn and taking our rock shoes and having a wee play about.  But Clach na Beinn is steep!  And not a good one for a first hill run, and I'd struggle with it too!  But I think if I get a nice day soon, I'm going to run up and have a play.
Although, when I say run up, it's more run/walk/run/walk.  Mel did well for her 1st attempt at running up a hill.  She did mostly walk, but she kept her pace fast and did run quite a few of the really steep bits and it wasn't an easy hill to run!  On the last leg I was determined to reach the top in a one-er but had to stop and die just short of the top, with Mel booing down hill from me.  I caught my breathe, waiting for the 'sickness' to subside and trotted up to the top.  Yes!  We made it!  
The downhill was ace as ever!  I let my brakes off on the 1st bit, zooming down, long strides and wind through my hair, brilliant!  Next there was an uphill and I ran most of it, with Mel managing the steep bit near the top too.  Then it was more zooming downhill, all the way to the bottom, with a long flat stretch back to the car which we did as a fast walk/slow jog to cool down, with me rescuing a baby hedgehog from sure squishment on the side of the road.  Which I regretted after, as I'd picked it up with my fleece and didn't want to put the fleece back on in the car with the thought of all those hedgehog fleas!
It was ace getting in another hill run, and I think Mel thoroughly enjoyed it too.

Beinn Eighe again - 21/22nd Aug '09

I got spanked by yet another VS!
Andy and I had decided to climb the winter line The Ace, on Beinn Eighe and I was really looking forward to the technical climbing that Beinn Eighe has to offer on small, flat holds (though I wasn't much looking forward to the slog up it's Southern flank!)
The forecast was for light showers in the morning to clear up around 10/11ish and then sunshine and 20degrees (valley level) Hah!
The roads were wet driving up, cloud looming and threatening and it wasn't long after leaving the car that it started raining. Just a passing shower right? Well, it rained all the way to the top of the hill though Andy was insistent that the rock would dry if it stopped, me not so convinced.
The rain stopped as we approached the top of the Western Buttress area and by the time we were gearing up at the top of Fuselage Gully, there were even little bits of blue sky trying to peep through. It was still cold though and I kept my over trousers on, if not to keep me dry from any more showers, at least to keep me warm.
Walking down the top of Fuselage Gully, I felt uneasy on my feet. I started feeling a bit off and nervous. I didn't like all the plane wreckage about and kept imagining that plane crashing into the gully and all the violence that would entail. It made me feel a bit spooked which didn't help the nerves. I was glad of those over trousers though as the gully was wet and minging as only gullies can be! I didn't like the creaking noises that the wreckage made as you ab off the propeller jammed into the gully bed. That propeller has been stuck there since 1951 http://www.torridonmountains.com/Lancaster.htm so more than likely is properly wedged in, but the creaking and groaning of the bits of metal surrounding it was very disconcerting!
Standing below the face of Fuselage Wall gives you the total WOW factor! What a wall! Steep, steep, steep and capped with massive roofs and overhangs, are we really going up there?!
The first pitch was easy enough and enjoyable and took us to a ledge below a very steep, and blank for feet crack which we went to the left of. Up a very awkward ramp come groove which involved getting hands wet in a crack, laying right out on that wet crack and getting my feet higher than my hips to get them onto a small horizontal crack in an otherwise blank block. This is where I started struggling. I was cold and my hands were now numb from having to use that wet crack and I started to feel more and more vocal about how hard I was finding things. Approaching the roofs found you in an utterly amazing position, pushed out by the overhangs you had to mantle onto a large block. Only problem was this block was as high as my chest and with the rope being behind me it had to stay loose enough so as not to pull me away from the block, but I became scared of swinging off into nothing if I didn't manage the mantle. I kept screaming up to Andy that I wanted a tight rope, so he'd take me tight, then I'd get pulled the wrong way so would scream up for slack, and then get totally gripped! I really struggled with the mantle, grunting and cursing and ended up on my knees eventually, a miserable wreck with poor Andy above frustrated at the torrent of abuse coming from my mouth!
And there was no let up either! Because of cold and nerves, I got a case of tunnel vision, unable to see holds unless they were directly in front of me. The next move involved a long step leftwards to take you right onto the steep wall below the roofs. Every time I tried to step left, I couldn't reach without letting go of a nice hold I had and boy I didn't want to let go! After some more cursing and back warding and forwarding I eventually remembered to look for a different way of doing the move that would give me more reach and found a massive side pull that made the move easy!
A move upward found you jammed into the bottom of a chimney with a massive capping roof, with no obvious way of freeing yourself. I can't for the life of me remember how I managed to move out of that hemmed in position but it did involve more cursing and a tight rope, with squeals of frustration as the rope and roof kept threatening to decapitate me!
That was it, I just gave up and surrendered to the tight rope and hauling up the last couple of moves. I struggle with back and footing at the best of times! But when I'm cold, stiff and a raging mess of nerves and frustration, unable to trust the friction on the rock (which had been far too wet in places for my liking!) then it just 'aint happening!
I got to the top of the pitch, sat down and needed 5 to compose myself, after muttering that I was never climbing a wet route again, I hated new routing on rock, it was wet and minging and I was giving up rock climbing for good as I was utterly hopeless and crap! I then ran out the rope up to the top of the cliff, which was just scrambling, untied and scrambled up to our sacks, brooding and feeling embarrassed by my display of utter patheticness and inability to climb. I hate the sheer indignity of having to be hauled when finding something too difficult and yet I make it worse on myself by losing my temper. I wish I could stay calm and collected and in control, and I need to find a way of tempering my volatile nature so it doesn't affect my head when climbing. It's a damn shame as in retrospect, if it had been dry, then I could appreciate what an amazing route it was, I mean the rock scenery and positions were so spectacular.
Whilst I'd been shouting and screaming my head off, a couple had been scrambling up to the top, from Sail Mhor and I was mortified to meet them on the descent down the scree from the top and apologised profusely for all the noise they must have had to listen too. They had walked in to climb, but found it too wet for their liking, which did make me feel a little better that I'd struggled cos we had been attempting a steep and sustained VS in those conditions. The descent didn't seem to be so bad this time round and we flew down in no time at all.

The next day was forecast for high winds and rain and so climbing was out the question. I'd taken my running stuff up to Andy's to get some exercise and when Andy mentioned walking up another Graham to do some mapping for the SMC Graham's book, I decided that I'd do a hill run.
Carn na h-Easgainn sits at just over 600m and near a large windfarm. Andy dislikes windfarms but I think they look alright, all futuristic looking, though I wouldn't like to see them scattered about everywhere. There has been a new track built up there recently and it was to map this track that we were going up for.
After walking for 5 mins or so to warm up, I started my run. It involved run/walk/run/walk right to the top. The top was closer than I realised (we'd managed to drive a fair bit of the way up) and I got there by running for 1 minute, walking for I minute, running for 1 minute, walk for a minute, run for 30 secs, walk 30secs, run for 25 secs up an excruciatingly steep bit, walk for 25, my body not wanting to run yet, but forcing myself to run another 30, walk 30, then run the final stretch to the top. I was running against the wind the whole way and at 40mph it was knocking my breath away and blowing spit out my mouth in my exertion! I waited for Andy to get to the top, he wasn't far behind and he went off left whilst I ran the longer track right to see if it joined up with a track lower down which was already on the map.
This section was gently undulating but still into the wind, and running along listening to Patti Smith was most enjoyable! I've missed running out in the hills! Took a slow leg back up to the summit and told Andy I'd see him back at the car, before setting off at a slow run which got faster and faster as the ground descended more steeply. I'd forgotten just how mental it is to release your brakes when running downhill steeply. I was flying! My strides long and free, the wind gushing behind me, pushing me all the faster! Thoughts that if I fell by placing an awkward step on the rough ground, I'd more than likely break my leg, were off little consequence! Exhilarating!
I had time to have a big drink, mull around deciding whether to change or not, deciding not to as I wanted to do my core strengthening exercises back at the house so no point getting into clean clothes. Then do all my leg stretches and boy were my quads tight! They've not worked like that for a while!

Bouldering, hillwalking and finding another HVS - 12th&14th Aug '09

It's been a fairly quiet week on the climbing front.
Wednesday came with forecast showers, but dry for Kirrie. Only problem is, I really can't face another days climbing at Kirrie, without the thought of slitting my wrists due to sheer and utter boredom of the place! I've led the easy routes far too many times, and don't feel inspired to push myself at the moment, not there at least. Where to go though? I trawled through the NE Outcrops for possible sea cliffs to visit, that might not be too intimidating. I was keen to check out Floor's Craig again, good few VS's to try there. Only problem was that the tide was to be high at tea time, bugger that!
Decided in the end to check out Boltsheugh, Aberdeen coasts only bolted venue. There are one or two easy routes and I found out the harder stuff can be toproped quite easily and thought that it might be ideal in the forecast showers as it's an overhanging venue. Better than going to the wall right?
On first glance I wasn't too impressed with the place, but as a bouldering venue, it's superb! So, so, so, so pumpy! We couldn't be bothered leading anything or setting up ropes for routes that are so short, and Jonathon jumped straight on the 6a+ on the Upper Right Wall and soloed it in his trainers! He reckons it's low end 6a. We then proceeded to spend the evening traversing the length of the right wall. By god, it doesn't half trash your arms and fingers! Flash pump, getting warmed up, sussing the moves, but our hands got way too wrecked on the sharp rock long before we could suss out the whole traverse.
Jonathon then played about on the HVS at the left end of that wall, going up and down, but never sure about the crux. I pointed out a hold up and to the left, and he went for it, soloing the damn thing! Ok, it's only like 6 or 7m or something, but there's no way you'd catch me soloing that! Be broken ankle/leg material coming off it for sure! Especially as none of us has bouldering mats. Anyway, he cruised it. His 1st HVS 5b, although it's more of a 5b high ball if you solo it I guess.
We were having a laugh anyway, seeing who get the furthest on the traverse, and being daft and having a banter (distraction techniques to put the winner off!) Of course, I came off last again and again! It was a nice chilled evening though, and that HVS is another strong contender for my 1st HVS lead. Steep, juggy and good gear, oh yes!

Friday, I had promised RB's Stepmum Laura that I'd go out hillwalking with her. The forecast was utterly minging however, with rain all over Scotland and 20-25mph winds, gusting 30 (try 30 gusting 40) RB refused point blank to go walking in the rain (sensible child) and Laura managed to get her Dad to take Beinn (RB's brother) so I couldn't get off the hook and was fully committed to going out, damn it!
It was minging as forecast and walking up towards the top of Carn ban Mor, Laura said she'd prefer to do just one Munro rather than the 2 as planned, yes!
'The shorter one or the longer one?' asks I.
'The shorter one.' Laura replied.
Yes!

Compass out, was misty and horizontal rain. God, I love the wind and the fight against it, but wind and rain together is minging and by the time we were at the top of Carn na Criche I was pretty damp under my waterproofs and my boots were a puddle of water, what with the holes in them and all.
The summit cairn on the top is the smallest I've ever seen, and luckily the mist cleared just briefly so I could peer over the edge to see the long cliffs below. Nice! I'd like to visit these cliffs in winter, they look just like my cup of tea! And in this disgusting weather, thoughts are definitely starting to turn to winter.
The wind was biting on the way down, driving icy cold rain into our faces and after a wee hiccup of following a path which petered out into nothing and having a feeling that we weren't where we should be (we should have been high, but we had two upwards slopes to either side of us) I got the compass out so we could follow a back bearing back to the path. We ended up skirting round the side of Carn ban Mor and were quickly back at the main path. First bit of navigation I've had to do for a while, and it shows, am a bit rusty! But more in the sense of doubting my bearings and my ability to read the map, as I was actually correct as to where I thought I was. So not too rusty.

We were back at the car before long, to be greeted by The Auld Grumpy Git of Achlean! A right old 'get off my land' type. He was having a fit because we'd parked on his track and not used the car park. No harm was done as we'd stayed off the turning point for his lorries and gone right up onto the grass, but he was spittin! And threatening us with fines, aye right!

We nipped into Andy's afterwards to dry off, change, and get a warming cuppy (thanks love!) before zooming back down the road so we could get the kids.

SHIEL, BEINN EIGHE, SPUTAN AND SNEACHDA - 5th - 9th Aug '09

I sat at home eagerly awaiting the Postie on Tues 4th, for my Higher exam results only for it to dawn on me that the results actually came out the day after, on the 5th! Aaaaarg, what a dimwit!! Especially since I had organised to drive up to Andy's on Tuesday evening and return to Dundee to stay at my folk's on Sunday evening, meaning those exam results would be sat by my front door until Monday morning. It was torture knowing they were at home and I couldn't access them, if only I'd been organised enough to register to get them texted to me!
Being up at Andy's and finally getting out into the hills helped to distract me from the anticipation of exam results and also the worry that RB and Laura and Beinn were going off hillwalking up Glen Shiel. So silly for me to worry, but my imagination runs off and before I know it, horrible things have happened and I feel sick to the core. I've got to stop this worry and stress over things that 99% have no chance of happening!

It just so happened that as I wanted to go hillwalking on Wednesday to give my arm a bit of a rest, and Andy needed to go up A Ghlas Beinn for his 4th round of the Munro's, that I was able to get first hand experience of the hills that RB would be going up. I knew she'd be fine on them, but I also knew they were big hills and not an easy stroll. Turns out they were all fine and had good weather and not bothered too much by midges! Nobody got lost in the mist, nobody fell off cliffs and nobody got eaten alive by killer midges! (apart from Andy and I in Torridon on Thurs, but that's for later)
Andy and I went up A'Ghlas Beinn by it's West Ridge, then up to the summit, down by it's SSE ridge to the Bealach an Sgairne, then down some of Glean Choinneachain and around and up into Coire an Sgairne, and up to the summit of Beinn Fhada. We then went up the Plaide Mor to the top of Meall an Fhuarain Mhoir and along the scrambly ridge that followed NNW. That was quite good fun and a there was a wee tricky slabby step. Nearing the end, Andy was fed up of all the up and downing involved and proceeded to take a 'short cut' (aye!) with me the fool following, even though I'm certain the map had it better to continue!
'But I like downhill better,' he says!
'I don't like this steep grass and wet mud!' says I, but I follow on regardless and after stumbling and cursing to the tune of,
'this is what is was like before paths,'
we eventually came to the point where we would have more easily by following the end of the ridge. No matter, the descent though steep, was easy enough and before long we were trudging along by the river with Andy saying he'd forgotten where the bridge was and me having visions of river wading, but find the bridge he did, genius! But not in time to be saved by the heavens opening just 10 minutes from the car and us getting a soaking. Aaaaaah, I love the hills, it feels so good to be home!

A day of rest and Harry Potter saw us drive up to Torridon to climb on Beinn Eighe. At last! I've dreamed of climbing here since last summer, tis so beautiful and the rock so good! We walking in good speed (racing against the midge's which were horrific in Torridon stylee at the carpark!) I was nervous about the approach to East Buttress which involved a very narrow 'path' around the top of the sandstone tier (you can see in the pic of the Tripple Buttress, where the brown sandstone tier ends and the lighter quartzite tier begins) The path consists of muddy foot holds in grass and there is a narrowing that is about a foot wide and is very muddy and slimy, where a slip would have disastrous consequences. I tried not to think about that as my mind went into vertigo mode, and the scenery to my right flew past me at a faster speed than normal, my legs feeling like they were moving on the spot and becoming more and more unbalanced. Concentrating on where I place my feet, trying to ignore the dizziness and concentrate on my breathing instead.
'Where is the narrow, horrible bit?' I ask.
'You've just past it!'
'Oh! Cool!'
We're at the bottom of the route and this funky looking chimney awaits us. The climbing is weird. It's not like the HVS we did here last summer, similar but different. Many of the holds are same in their flatness but they are much bigger. But the climbing is different, the moves are quite big and there is alot of back pressing and mantley type moves, but we are bridging up a chimney. I lead the top pitch which is the best and I love it! I get to a steepening and I'm sure this can't be right at V.Diff! The wall looks bare, bar a crack on the left, a very thin crack in the centre and a wide crack on the right. There are some footholds in the centre so that's where I start. And as I move up, where the wall seemed blank, all these holds just keep appearing and appearing and the climbing is just so smooth and lovely and much, much easier than seemed from below! Another crack follows above and I take the wall just to the right of it, over walls and ledges and before I know it I'm at the top, bringing Andy up. I'm so happy!
Andy had spotted some line last year and went off, happy to solo up it whilst I went round to bag Ruadh-stac Mor. I set off at a run, leaping down over rocks and boulders, loving the freedom of running downhill, it's been to long! I slow to a fast walk on the uphill leg, bag my summit, and fly downhill again, the wind in my hair, only pausing to snap a picture of a lone deer grazing on the slopes.
Amazingly, by the time I'm back up, Andy has finished his route! I'm gobsmacked by how quick he was, so sure I'd be hanging around waiting. We'd spotted a team on Ling Dynasty, an E5 that Andy had teamed up with someone with and done the 1st ascent of. We were curious who was on it, but they'd gone and though we spotted them scree running down the hill, they were far, far quicker than us. I was amazed by how quickly the could move, sure I'd be on ankle breaking territory if I dared go that fast!

On Saturday we decided to walk into Coire Sputan Dearg. I'd quizzed Andy about the HS Grey Slab, but knowing my dislike of slabs Andy was hesitant and we decided that Snake Ridge would be a better option for me. It took just over 2hours to walk in, through Sneachda and up the Goat Track, then heading south across the Feith Buidhe, the Garbh Uisage Beag and the Garbh Uisage Mor, then down Glissade Gully and into Sputan. Andy was walking ahead of me down the gully and said there were a couple of folk gearing up at the bottom of our route. No way! I thought he was winding me up! What were the chances of walking all this way just to find someone on the exact route we wanted to do! I didn't believe him until I saw an orange helmet bobbing about and the other team came into view. No worries though. They weren't too long and Andy seemed happy to wait for a change.
I led the 1st pitch up a fantastic crest which narrowed significantly near the top! It was fairly steep at the bottom, and then levelled off into a knife edge. I contemplated using the edge as a handrail, or going Au Cheval (having had practise!) or doing a crab crawl! It was too steep to bum shuffle up, and it felt a bit like cheating not going direct, so I went for the crab crawl, scuttling up on toes and hands, it was great fun! I'd run out all the rope (1st pitch 60m and we only had a 50m rope) so Andy climbed up to let me finish, then he carried on, running the next 2 pitches together at 20 and 15metres and covering the crux which was brilliant climbing! A couple of really good moves and good value at the grade! The weather was really threatening and we had to move quick. I flew up the next easy pitch and it was an easy scramble to the top that we just soloed up. The cloud was thick, wind had picked right up and it started a steady drizzle which lasted all the way back to the Goat Track. Snapped some pics of climbers on Magic Crack, which turned out to be John, an old climbing partner and then we zoomed off back to the car, just in time to use the toilets!

On Sunday I had assumed we'd not climb so was thinking of what hills I could go up on the way home. But Andy was having none of that! He admitted he was tired, but still had a day left in him for more routes. I wasn't too keen on going cragging but a day in Sneachda piqued my interest! The plan was try for the 1st summer ascent of The Messenger and then ab down Pot of Gold and for me to lead that. Well, on approaching, Andy admitted that he didn't know how close we'd be to ab down Pot of Gold and it might involve traversing across or scrambling down from the summit and then we'd have to walk off in rock shoes after! Grrrr, I was grumbling as I'd left my light trail shoes at Andy's and only had my heavier boots which were too big to clip onto my harness. I could feel one of my strops developing and it only got worse, when The Messenger's 1st pitch turned out to be utterly minging! Up a wet slab, followed by a huge wet, grassy and muddy ledge until you could get to the clean rock. Yuck! The 1st pitch was the crux and I found it desperate! You had to use an undercling and then reach round a corner and round the side of a roof to a crack. But try as I might, I couldn't get round the corner and reach the damn crack! I hauled on gear and had a tight rope and ended up having to be hauled up the the crux! This left me grimacing! The top crack was desperate too! Steep wall with rounded cracks that I can't get my hands around and can't jam. Tight rope again and heaaaaaave! Am fuming by this point! This isn't bloody climbing! Being pulled up stuff IS NOT MY IDEA OF FUN! Andy is learning to keep his mouth shut when I go off on one lest he get his head bitten off and he waits for me to calm down whilst I spit that I'm not climbing another bloody route and I'm too angry to ab! So we walk off, the concentration needed not to slip on wet grass, calming my fury somewhat. By the time we're back at the sacks I'm ready to set off up that minging 1st pitch again to get to the clean rock on Pot of Gold. I'm even contemplating leading it, but I'm very hesitant after the thuggy, desperate and reachy climbing on Messenger. If Pot of Gold is anything like that, I'm really going to struggle!
I look up at the 2nd pitch and I have to admit, it certainly looks appealing! A steep wall broken by a system of corners, cracks, grooves and blocks, so off I set. I'm really shaky to start of with, my mood and nerves still affected by my dismal failure on the previous route. I'm struggling to read the rock but with encouragement from below I finally start relaxing, my leading head slowly comes together and the route starts speaking to me and pulling out full involvement. The top of that pitch is ace, up a dubious crack and chimney would looks impossible at the grade but is actually pretty easy!
The crux pitch *is* unlikely though and Andy gives me one bit of beta by telling me where a hidden hold is, bingo! Well, bingo for a minute! I still can't do the move the way he does it as it feels way too unbalanced. Instead, I get a really high foot and a big rock over and I'm up past the crux bulge. The rest is easy and I scamper off up to the top of the cliff, so much more happier than I was in the morning and so glad I'd relaxed enough to keep on climbing.
Again, we are back down to the car park early, and after sleeping at my folk's house in Dundee and picking up RB this morning, I zoom off up the road to eagerly rip open my awaiting exam results!

Higher Biology - A
Higher Psychology - A
Higher Maths - A

So pleased! I knew I had an A for Biology, was certain I also had one for Psychology, but it was 50/50 for an A or B for maths and I was so certain I wasn't going to get an A as I'd found the 2nd paper really difficult (forgetting that I'd found the 1st paper a doddle though!) which probably made up for messing up a couple of questions in paper 2 and being unable to answer 1 of them. Getting that A in Maths really was the icing on the cake to a fab week.

WEE ROCK STAR! - 27th to 31st July '09

RB exceeded all expectations over the past few days!
She'd been at me for the past year to let her do some proper trad lead climbing, without a safety rope or without someone soloing or shunting up beside her. I'd always been far too nervous of the prospect however, she's far too young, it's too hard, what if her gear is crap, what if she hurts herself???
All these thoughts and fears were still present, but having had a year to think it over I could see no harm in letting her try a few Mods or Diffs on lead. We'd need to find a cliff that had billions of good and easy to place gear. A place with a reasonable approach and descent. A place where she could get well back from the edge of the cliff after leading, get herself safe and where I could go round to the top easily and check her belay anchors were solid.
Reiff seemed like a good bet.
So we'd planned 5 days away and prayed for weeks that the weather would be kind. For the past 2 summers, the North West of Scotland has seen wonderful sunshine whilst the rest of the country has been drowning in rain! But unfortunately this trend wasn't to continue. The original plan of Applecross/Reiff/Torridon with a stay in the Ling Hut had to get scrapped. Gutting because I was eager to show Reiff to RB, think she'd love it there!
Instead, Mon was spent driving up to Logie Head on the Moray Coast with an uncertain forecast. Well, the forecast was for showers but I thought we'd risk it as the showers often fall well inland there. Not that day though!
We stopped off at Portsoy for some of their famous homemade icecream, just in time for the heavens to open! Rats! Carried on regardless, just a passing shower, the cliff will be dry. Walking in to the crag was minging! Never seen Logie like that before. The path was like mud and the bracken by the path had us soaked in seconds and RB covered in mud after slipping on the path. Not off to a good start! We persevered however and RB spent the first half hour to an hour messing about with the rack and placing as many bits of gear as she could along the bottom of the cliff. While she was doing that, I went up to the top and set up a belay, checking all her gear when I got back down. The descent scramble was pretty slippy so I decided I'd just lower RB off the routes rather than risk her slip.
Her gear was all good, she seems to have a good grasp on how it all works, so I could see no reason for me to delay her any longer. We hung about waiting for another shower to pass and the rock seemed dry enough for her to give it a go, so she started off up Sea Link, a V.Diff. I've never seen so much gear go in that route before! I'm quite impressed that she managed to find so many placements! All in all, she managed to place all of her 9 quickdraws! All good gear placing practise. And she had to suffer a heavy rain shower as she was nearing the top! She got herself safe and I came round to the top, only to realise that I'd set up the belay for her in completely the wrong place! So, I got her to move well back and had to shift things around a bit, get her back on the belay anchors and comfy, explaining the whole process to her, get myself back down to the bottom of the cliff and climb the damn thing!
Gah though! My arm is damn sore! It's hurting quite badly after my day at Hawkcraig. I'm unsure whether I've got a dose of Tennis Elbow, or damaged by biceps, or whether the pain is coming from my Triceps. But I'm kidding myself I reckon, I know it's my neck. There is definite elbow pain at the epicondyle but the pain around it is that weird kind of nerve pain where I poke at the muscle body only to find the pain has moved! There are darts of pain down my forearm and into my fingers and after driving, because my elbow has been bent, I can barely straighten my arm out, it feels so weak and ineffective. So, that's that! This is exactly the same thing that happened to my other arm last year, that the Doc, Physio and Chiro all said was coming from my neck and certainly with all the bouts of neck pain I've been having, particularly the falling off the slackline incident, it seems the most likely reason for my arm pain now. My muscles seem more susceptable to damage because of the nervy stuff going on, bugger!
Anyway, I lowered RB off the route after and the rain was getting heavier and it was getting pretty cold so we decided to pack it in for the day. Only one route done, but better than expected considering the rain!

The forecast for Tuesday wasn't great again, and the Moray Coast had the best again, so we headed off to Cummingston for the day. I wasn't too sure about this being a great place for RB to learn to lead as the gear can be hard and fiddly to place, but it turned out to be an excellent venue for her! She absolutely loved it! And again, she seems to have a good nose for hunting out gear placements and I was amazed by the bits of gear she found where I looked up and thought she'd struggle! She started off on the Diff on the Stack called Flying Buttress, Right Side, finding it tricky for a Diff (it is!) but still finding loads of good gear, then doing an abseil protected with a prussic. She then liked the look of the Diff called Snotty Nose and protected that very well too! This route hurt my arm! Very frustrating to be unable to climb even Diffs without pain! It's Northumbria all over again! She then had a go on Blockbuster, the V.Diff that goes up to the wee roof on jugs and thought that was fun, followed by the Severe next door, Doddle Diedre. I was nervous of her leading this one, as I find it awkward to climb and the gear placements not brilliant at all. The guide has it as well protected but everyone I know who has done it, find the gear a bit dubious. RB's gear was ok, bar the cams which weren't hot! But as best as anyone could get I think. She certainly wasn't in any danger anyway. And she was calm and collected when climbing and didn't find the route troublesome at all, apart from the sand! That was us for the day, I'd necked some painkillers to help me be able to climb, and Andy had toprope soloed some HVS and E1 a billion times!

Wed, I was gagging to get up the hills! The forecast hadn't been great the day before, with showers forecast, but I thought if the showers were much like they were on Monday, then it should be okay to go into Sneachda and do something like Pygmy Ridge. The forecast said much the same the following morning, even if the weather out the window said different! It was pretty windy and more of a constant drizzle at the car park, rather than a passing shower! RB was still keen however, thinking she'd be happy enough if the rain stayed light and showery.
The showers came and went on the approach, but after leaving the 1st aid box, the rain became more persistent. I really didn't have my hill head screwed on at all that morning and had forgotten waterproof trousers for both RB and I, and we had no hat or gloves to keep warm either! By the time we were nearing the scramble up, I could see that RB was wet and cold and not that happy. She keeps things to herself though. I can tell when she's unhappy and I like her to be able to feel she can say she doesn't want to do something, without feeling like she is letting anyone else down or feeling pressurised by group pressure into doing something she doesn't want to do. This can happen only too easily and though I was happy for her to carry on if she was really keen, I could see quite plainly she wasn't happy, and I know Andy would be raring to go and dismissive of any thoughts of not carrying on. I wasn't having that however! I'll not have her pressurised full stop! Especially not by some Diff, that Andy has probably done a billion times and that I know for a fact she would enjoy much, much more on a dry day! I've no interest in that carry on regardless attitude. The route will be there for us to do any time and her comfort and enjoyment is my main concern. Oh boy, was Andy pissed off though! I discussed with RB the possibility of either going to Huntly's or going to Aviemore Wall, but Andy wasn't up for discussion and stomped off in a huff. We didn't speak to him, nor see him until we got back to the car. I could feel my temper simmering on the surface, if he just dares to mention one word about turning back or make me feel like shit for my decision, word will be spoken! And words were spoken! I'd had enough! It was like having to cater for another child!!! And I felt guilty and torn because I have to be the bad one in the middle that makes a decision that's going to make someone unhappy whatever way I decide. But fact is, RB is a child and she comes first.
That temper was still simmering and you could have cut the tension in the car with a knife on the way back! I was ready to pack our bags and bugger off to Reiff for the rest of the week, not having this carry on ruin the rest of RB's holiday. Dunno what Andy was thinking, but he seemed to switch off his huff and become happy again and want to go to Huntly's. This settled my mood and we were all good again.
RB enjoyed Huntly's, particularly the free hanging abseil! Ugh! I was nervous as hell for her doing the abseil, but she loved it! Where I'm birling round feeling sick and not enjoying it, she's going, 'haha, this is fun!' Worry for nothing!
RB led a V.Diff called Right Hand Groove, which I found a total sandbag for V.Diff! Really strenuous and mega reachy at the top! There is a tree above a chimney and neither of us could reach it to use it as a hold. Andy had to put a sling round it for RB to use as a runner, so she was well protected as she figured a way to reach. And I was squeaking at Andy to help RB with the dead end of the rope when she was belaying me up, so convinced I was going to fall off! Think I need to get RB to take my weight on the rope when she's belaying from above, to ascertain that she can hold a fall that way, or take my weight at least. I'd had enough. Tired, arm sore, more painkillers and a flat feeling that feels oh so familiar!
Andy finished off the day by leading RB up Cave Route at HS and then Diagonal at VS, both of which she flew up and enjoyed!

Thursday, I'd hoped the forecast would be good enough for Reiff, but last minute changes showed showers in the west again, with Moray as usual getting the only good weather. Back to Cummingston! RB was happy and planning the days routes before we even got there! First off she wanted to do one of the routes on the Cornflake Wall that she couldn't do the other day due to groups toproping. Then she wanted to do the V.Diff on the Stack, then she wanted to do another Severe. She got her 1st route, Shredded Wheat at V.Diff. Very aptly named! The route was one of the sandiest I've done at Cummingston! RB found it rather disgusting. Andy was leading today and did Coach Bolt Crack on the stack, named so because of a big rusty old peg thing in the crack from way back when. RB found this a bit awkward but seconded it cleanly. She then decided against leading the V.Diff on the Stack, wanting to jump on a Severe straight away. She liked the look of Staircase Crack, but the showers had left it a bit streaky with wet, so she led Doubtless Wall instead. I was nervous of her doing this one as I recalled it being steep, with not much gear. Andy showed her a different way of starting the route and pointed out a bomber hex placement (so obvious when you see it!) and again my fears were unfounded as she totaly cruised it, and said it was her most enjoyable route yet!
We then went over to the Prophet Walls and Andy led Right at HVS 5b, which RB cruised on second, just lingering a moment to figure out the crux. The wee monkey then decided she wanted to try Centre. In most guides this is down as MVS 4b, but recently downgraded to HS 4b. Andy reckoned it would be MVS in the SMC guide, if they did that grade. Aaaaaarg, more nerves!!!! I'm worried she won't be able to reach the nose, or if she does reach it, she'll get stuck by being unable to reach the next holds! She's going far too wall for that though! And she's loving it! Finding it easy enough to hang off the nose and pose for the camera! She's so calm and collected, her emotions never once betraying her. At the top, she admitted to feeling a bit scared on the 1st corner above the nose, because she had to do a really high step and she said it felt really committing. This is now her favourite route and she was bubbling with enthusiasm for it!
John and Ryan appeared as RB was leading Centre, having been rained off down in Wales and both commented on how at ease she seemed up there. High compliments from the lads! These guys are going really well just now, both of them having led their 1st E3's.
Andy and RB then toproped The Prophet at E2 5c, and I Ching at E3 5c. RB cruised up these!!! Bloody hell!! She's so strong for her height and weight, flexible and she just really, really knows how to shift her body weight and position to really get the moves. It seems to come naturally to her, wish I could get some of that!

Fri, the weather is still crap up North and too far to drive up there and back home in a day anyway! Back to Logie Head again. A good choice as the weather was gorgeous there today. RB started off on the Severe, Bladderwrack, not having any difficulty with the trickier start at all. Then she seconded Cullenary Delight at VS 5a, no problemo! She then led Sea Urchin at HS 4b where I thought she might struggle with a fiddly bit of gear in the roof. Posed no problems at all, and she wondered what I was on about when I said the gear was awkward to place there! Andy then led Sunnyside Up at HVS 5a and RB seconded this cleanly again.
Andy and I had discussed the possibility of RB trying Poacher on lead, the night before. I was very hesitant though. Andy was convinced she would manage but I was a bit freaked at the thought of her pushing herself too much too soon! What if her gear wasn't good enough? The gear on Poacher's is excellent, none of the moves too hard or strenuous, but the route is very sustained with no opportunity to rest! We didn't mentioned it to her though. She looked at the route and asked herself what it was and seemed quite surprised when Andy suggested she could lead it if I would let her. Aaaaaaaaarg!!! She was keen to give it a go, and we'd seen that her gear was all good, bar a couple of iffy cam placements, but poachers can be protected with nuts and hexes. And 75% of her cam placements had been good enough. I agreed she could give it a go. I didn't want to belay though. Far, far too nervous! Half of me wants to belay so I can be there for her, but I'm so full off the things that could go wrong, don't want to affect her with my worry and negative vibes. After getting nervous about some passing grey cloud, convinced she's going to get rained on and get into an epic, I shut my mouth and let them get on with it! I'm not happy until she's well off the ground and placed her first few bits of gear, knowing now that if she falls she's well protected. She's cruising it though!! That's my wee girl up there, looking quite the climber!! She's calm, she moves well and thoughtfully as ever, always in total control, nothing phasing her! I meet her at the top to make sure her belay is good and we discuss the route. She found it different to Centre she said. With the routes at Cummingston, you have to think about the moves. On Poacher, she said, the moves were all easy and obvious but she kept thinking, oh my arms are tired, next move, oh my arms are tired. I laugh at her perfect description of a sustained route!
More comments from other climbers about how in control and confident she is, and I'm beaming with pride and RB is bubbling with happiness, saying this has been a fab climbing holiday!
To finish the week, Andy leads 2x HVS's on the Pinnacle, Material Advantage and Hanging Pawn. Pumpy, pumpy! RB cruised the first route and shouts, aaaaaaaarg my arms are falling off on the 2nd! They both then toprope Mating Net (E1 5c as they started right at the bottom of the crack) This is a jamming crack and Andy laughs that it will sort out RB! And sort her out it does! She's not done any jamming before, bar the odd foot jam and she struggles with it, the crack spitting her off again and again, before sheer determination makes her figure the moves and get to the top.
That was fun she says!